My car crankwalked about 4 months ago and I replaced the block with the remanufactured block from Mitsu. I didn't want to do a 6 bolt because I already had everything I needed for the 7 bolt and thought I would be able to get atleast a year or two out of the new 7 bolt and I was told that it had a much less chance of crankwalking. Basically I was getting a new bottom end and the head worked. It was actually the cheaper way to go and had the longest warranty. Well, 6k miles later and CW again. I know there is nothing to prevent it from happening but what should I do now? I don't really want a 6 bolt with 100k+ miles on it. Is there a different thrust bearing that can be used that is better? Someone had mentioned TRW bearings. Has anyone heard anything about this?

i have nothing to contribute but damn dude that sucks @$$.

dont you have a warranty?

go pick up a used 7 bolt motor for like 200 bucks.

the biggest waranty out there are usualy 7 year 70k and most eclipses had 30k 3 years on them a 95 is just a tad over that.

also i belive my car is about to walk or is walking what are all of the simptoms? i can never get a good answer. i am putting in a 6bolt anyway i just wanted to know.

It is covered under a warranty. But, I want to reduce the chances of this happening again. I don't want a used 7bolt engine. Why would I want a used one. I just put a bacically new bottom end in my car and it crankwalked. It would make no sense for me to go get a used engine and take a chance on it. I would be better off to just get another remanufactured block and go with the 12 month warranty with it. But the point is I want to try to reduce the risk of crankwalk within that time.

I wish I could get an engine for $200. I would go ahead and buy a couple to swap out when needed.

my reman. block I put in 4 months ago had a 12 mth/12k mile warranty. that is going to cover parts and labor. Atleast it should. Unless Mitsu tries to screw me. My car had 85k miles on it when it CW'ed the first time and now it has CW'ed twice in 91k. That sucks. 2 Crankwalk in 4 months, can anyone beat that.

The first time I didn't really have many of the symptoms. I checked after I blew a head gasket and was putting in a new clutch and found that it was walking but not bad enough to really effect anything at that time. But with the bigger clutch I didn't expect it to last long. So I replaced the block.

This time I noticed a noise when pushing in the clutch and the clutch would stick at times. I thought it was the throw out bearing, so I took it in to the shop and the crank is walking and the noise was belt noise from the crank pulley moving out so far. Even the mechanic who replaced everything the last time is really frustrated. He is a good friend of mine and the only one in the area I trust to touch my car. He has been working at Mitsu for 10 years and knows his shit. Anyway Hope that helps a little. just do a search for CW and you will find lots of information on symptoms and how to test for it.

is mitsu covering crankwalks now as manufacture defect? will they replace motors.

If it is under warranty they should replace it, but I have heard that they often don't because they try to say the crankwalk was due to aftermarket clutches. I was guaranteed when they put mine in that mitsu had fixed the problem and would not crankwalk. Mine is going to be covered under the remanufactured block warranty.

a reman'd block could be reman'd because it previously walked. you cannot fix a block that walked. 99% of fixed blocks with cw rewalk.

id personally just get a different motor for 200 bucks.

Originally posted by dizzygsx
I don't really want a 6 bolt with 100k+ miles on it.

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Why not these motors have made 450whp with 100+k on the clock and dont walk.

Then buy a JDM Cyclone motor. JDM motors typically have 40-60k on them from Japan so in miles that’s 25-38 miles. We buy a lot of Honda motors and they still have the OE clutch with lots of life on them so the K is true, or it seems to be at least.

Just swap in the block and head and make the necessary changes to run a 6 bolt in a 2G and your laughing.

quote:
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Originally posted by dizzygsx
I don't really want a 6 bolt with 100k+ miles on it.
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So you'd rather have a remanned POS then a 6 Bolt?

That's your problem.

Originally posted by DSMJim
Then buy a JDM Cyclone motor. JDM motors typically have 40-60k on them from Japan so in miles that’s 25-38 miles. We buy a lot of Honda motors and they still have the OE clutch with lots of life on them so the K is true, or it seems to be at least.

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well, since a 1g us motor is the exact same, id suggest he just do that. this is after all his 3rd motor, and from the sound of him, i think he'd be uber pissed to get a over priced "jdm" jap motor with a problem or two. definatly the last thing he needs. im not implying all jdm motors have problems, but lets just say ive dealt with jdm motors in my day

just get a us 7 bolt (or 6bolt if you are up for it) so you can check out the motor then and there so you know what youre getting.

my best advice for you is to just get a beat 1g for 700 bucks and then you'll have the motor and then some. you have many many options here, so good luck on whatever path you choose.

With the kind of cash you spent on a reman 7 bolt you could have just gotten a reman 6 bolt instead.

You can still get the 6 bolt short blocks from mitsubishi. I think they are about 1900 last time I looked.

Basically the only reason I went with a 7 bolt reman. block was because I already had everything for the 7 bolt and did not want to spend additional money. Another reason was that it has a 12 month warranty. 6bolts can walk also and if that happened right now I would be in an even more difficult position financially. At least with the 7 bolt I have the warranty.

No I don't really want a POS but as I said before I don't want a motor that has been ran hard and put away wet either. Then I would be looking at spending more money. And you're right that is my problem. That's why I am asking for advise not criticism.

What about a tougher bearing?

My block was ran hard and put away wet for 12 years, at 180,000 miles I still had 150 across the board. When I pulled the pistons to bump upto 8.5:1 compression the factory crosshatchings were still there.

Oh BTW I didnt even bother to touch my crank bearings because they were still perfectly in factory spec. 12 years later!!!!!!

My rod bearings were still pretty also, but I replaced those


Just get a used 6bolt they will go forever, properly maintained.