I searched the forums and didn't find the answer to this one. Does anyone know what the output of the factory amp is with the Infinity System? I was told that it is something like 12 X 4; this just sounds low.

I know that some of you have incorporated it into your system, and I was thinking of doing the same. I have a Kenwood receiver though and if the deck puts out more watts, then I'd like to use it.

Any help is appreciated.

I don't know exactly, but I'm sure it's low. When I replaced my HU, I cut the factory amp completley out....it sounded as good if not better than with it. It's a tough situation though, being you've got 3 sets of speakers and most aftermarket HU's are only made for 2. Your best bet is to replace the door and dash front speakers with a component set and possibly an amp if you've got some money to spare.

Factory Amp settings are 22 Watts X 4 Peak, about 14-15 X $ rms. Yes, very weak, but good clean sound.

you cant keep the factory a,p in......THe head unit changer and amp all have to be in together for any to work as far as i know...we tried to get the amp and changer to work off my pioneer but it didn't work

I know that there is an adaptor that will allow you to use an aftermarket receiver with your factory amp. I've just been playing with the question of buying an aftermarket amp or integrating the factory one.

Not buying aftermarket amp = more $ for speed mods. WooHoo!!!

FrostbyteTalon, thanks for the watts info man.

or you can take out the factory one get a better CD player and it incorporates even more wattage...i got a 50 x 4 on my pioneer

But then I'm going to have to rewire the whole thing right? This is the big question I guess I need to answer myself right now. My Kenwood is 25 X 4 RMS with 50 X 4 peak. I know that it would be awesome to use it, but the rewiring must suck.

do this.....take out your factory amp...in the amp find the wires for the mids and the highs and the lows. Take a wire and when you find a right speaker and a left one bridge the wire so they complete a circuit so to speak....thats how we got it to work by bypassing the factory amp..otherwise it wont work

if you need anymore help ill be at audio dimensions later today and they can explain exactly how to do it or you can get it done if you are comming down if you need help

Yeah I'll probably end up doing all of the work myself. I don't know any people at any car stereo places here in Springfield, MO.

So you're saying to take the wires coming from the headunit and just bridge them to the wires that would be coming out of the amp going to the speakers?

Here is the thread I started on DSMTalk about the factory Amp and all that... It might help you guys out..

Thread

That thread has a lot of info, but I think that I'm going to bypass the factory amp and let my Kenwood head unit power the speakers. Your resolution was to use the factory amp, no?

= Sweet

I was planning to rip out the stock amp and replace it with an aftermarket one but the stock HU is weak as ballz in terms of signal. I'm planning on getting an Alpine deck to replace it.

So with the Alpine head unit are you going to leave the factory amp?

i hope not

Originally posted by IcemanPMA
So with the Alpine head unit are you going to leave the factory amp?

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You bet your a$$ I'm ripping that POS out....

good job

Ok here's a little more info. For those of you who are saying buy a new head unit and think its that easy, its not. I used to install stereos at Circuit City. Ok here's the deal... You got the premium sound package... SATAN's way of F($*ing you over in the long run. They charge you an arm and a let to get that and its nice.... until you want it louder. You can't just put in a new head unit, E-Tape a few wires and think its gunna work because it won't. You need to RE-WIRE every speaker (6 speakers) because all of the factory wiring depends on the amp and without the stock radio the amp won't turn on leaving you with a working head unit but...... da da da... No sound. In my opinion you're better off leaving the radio stock and maybe investing in a 3 way subwoofer enclosure. What I mean is but a cheap amp and a box that can be run stereo and has tweeters. That way you can put that in your trunk, get MUCH louder and more pure sound. The other route is nicer, but alot more work getting all new wire to each door speaker, back speaker and to the dash speakers. Just a little heads up because I want you to know its not going to be a 20 minute job.

BTW You're welcome IcemanPMA

dude i am able to tell them exactly how to do it...its like a 5 minute job chill out....and just to let you know Curcuit city is overpriced and cant install

Yes, they are over priced, but NO it is not a 5 minute job... unless you want to have a lot of spliced wires all over the place. There is no easy way to re-route around the factory amp without cutting tons of wires and splicing them. That distorts sound... Oh and in regards to "and they can't install" I was certified to do installs. I built custom boxes for people etc... don't judge unless you know brother. But keep ya head up!

certifications mean nothing unles you can do it...and yes it is a 5 min install with T-Taps and no distortion.....Audio dimensions...the place im sponsored by knows how to do it.....so If you KNEW what you were ralking about you would be able to do it

Originally posted by FrostbyteTalon
Yes, they are over priced, but NO it is not a 5 minute job... unless you want to have a lot of spliced wires all over the place. There is no easy way to re-route around the factory amp without cutting tons of wires and splicing them. That distorts sound... Oh and in regards to "and they can't install" I was certified to do installs. I built custom boxes for people etc... don't judge unless you know brother. But keep ya head up!

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Explain how the wiring needs the stock amp there?? I mean, wire is wire unless there is some intermediate device there. So you are telling me that if I rip out the stock amp and leave the wires the way they are. Then I patch each wire to the factory harness and then attach the aftermarket harness to the new deck to connect it all together, it won't work?? I don't see how that won't work...

you need to pop easch speaker with a battery rigged to put a slight charge through the harness

bridge the two power wires for each speaker together to complete the circuit left by the amp on all 6 speakers....12 T-Taps later your done...and a titty bit of wire

Originally posted by 97GS-TSpyder
you need to pop easch speaker with a battery rigged to put a slight charge through the harness

bridge the two power wires for each speaker together to complete the circuit left by the amp on all 6 speakers....12 T-Taps later your done...and a titty bit of wire

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Forgive me but WTF are T-Taps and why does there need to be a slight charge to each speaker after the amp is gone? You got a link with some more info?

Originally posted by RuBiCaNT99GSX



Forgive me but WTF are T-Taps and why does there need to be a slight charge to each speaker after the amp is gone? You got a link with some more info?

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*edit* Does all this need to be done if I swap out each speaker?