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[RESOLVED] Starting Issues - Have Tried A Number Of Things - Now It Seems There Is No

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DSMunknown

15+ Year Contributor
4,109
39
Sep 16, 2004
Worcester, Massachusetts
Well, a little over three weeks ago I was driving along. The car had started up, been running for about 5 minutes before the incident, and had driven about two miles down the road. I was at a stop light. The light changed, and proceeded ahead. From first into second, and second into third. As soon as I was going into third gear, the car shut off. All my electrical stuff was working, but the engine was off.

So I coasted into a nearby parking lot. I was there for about 2-and-a-half hours before my car was actually towed.

I called AAA. I thought I may have ran out of gas (although, neither my fuel gauge nor my light indicated I was low). The first guy came, and gave me about 5 bucks worth of regular. OMG We tried jumping it (both with a jumper and with his company truck). It just wouldn't start. I tried pumping the acceleration pedal and not pumping the acceleration pedal - it didn't seem to help. He looked at my battery and saw it was an EverStart. He told me that in his experience when those types of batteries start to fail, they are more like "NeverStart" batteries. So I was determined I needed to replace the battery (the old one was about 3.5 years old anyways).

He also said my fuel line could have frozen. I was skeptical of this, because I had already driven a couple of miles before the car shut off. I was also able to start the car in the morning and drive to my destination without any issues. The car had only been sitting for a few hours before I started it up again.

So I asked for a tow.

The second guy had a flatbed, but he wouldn't tow me because he accused me of having an aftermarket front bumper on the vehicle. He tried to pull the car on, but the bumper clearly was going to rip off if he went any further with the tow. I understood his predicament and thanked him for his time. He radioed in and called for another tow, a wheel-lift tow truck. That's fine, because this is a FWD.

Long story short, I can't figure out why the car isn't starting. Some important info before I forget - the car had been having trouble starting. It would sometimes take two or three tries for it to start up. During really cold mornings, it would crank slower and slower and slower. I understand that the oil gets really thick during the cold weather, and it takes more energy to turn the engine. But in case it has any bearing on my situation, I bring it to light.

I have had my dad helping me with this issue. He is no stranger to the automotive world. He is also a big DIYer and knows about the general inner workings of an engine. He is also frustrated.




Here is what I have done so far (in the general order we did it in):




  1. I read through this thread.
  2. I recharged the old battery for about 72 hours.
  3. Sprayed starter fuild in the TB elbow (not my idea).
  4. Checked my grounds. They seem fine.
  5. Bought a new battery.
  6. Recharged the new battery for about 48 hours.
  7. Loosened the fuel rail feed line (to see if there was any pressure). There was none (it would have sprayed if there was).
  8. Wasn't sure if the fuel pump (FP) was receiving any power. So we mocked up a separate power souce to see if the FP would pump fuel.
  9. Started to think it was a faulty MPI relay.
  10. Uninstalled the OEM 2G FP.
  11. The pump may have seized up. I decided it was time for an upgrade anyways.
  12. Reinstalled the FP because it seemed like it was not seizing up anymore (and because there was nothing else to do but try that for the time being).
  13. I searched on the forums and read that the ECU capasitors could have began to leak.
  14. I also read about the MFI (aka MPI) relay. Still not sure where that is located (I remember someone commenting about finding it in front of the ECU). But I'm not sure what to look for.
  15. I dismissed this as a possibility, because the pump seems to be receiving power.
  16. Uninstalled the ECU and sent it to FFWD.
  17. Darren King said there was nothing wrong with it.
  18. Recieved it in the mail and reinstalled it.
  19. Bought a used Lancer Evolution VIII FP. No more f-ing around with the possibility of a failing FP.
  20. Uninstalled the old FP and installed the new FP.
  21. Checked for spark - took all four plug wires out of the head, pushed in some sh*ty spark plugs that were laying around, made sure all four were in contact with the valve cover - no spark was seen on any of them (this was done during the day. Yes, doing this at night would have been better so any spark could have been seen easier, but it's cold right now and the person helping me didn't want to be out there).
  22. Bought a used coil pack (seller said it was in spec). The seller is trustworthy, so I will assume it actually is in spec. We do have a tester, just haven't tested this coil pack.
  23. Uninstalled the old coil pack, using this guide.
  24. There was plenty of fuel in the fuel rail when I removed it, so I'm pretty sure there is enough fuel being supplied.
  25. Installed the other used coil pack (yes, I recieved the correct one).
  26. Still has trouble starting. However, I haven't checked to see if there is now sparking (I was the only one around to turn the engine. I can't be in two places at once).
  27. Just ordered the DSM CD Manual just yesterday (Monday) from Forced Performance. This should help me out, but it probably won't be here until Thursday or Friday.
  28. I have also looked through this guide, but am not sure it applies to me. Why? Because of this link. If anyone has other CAS related links that can help me out, please post them up.
  29. Each time we try to start the car, we pump the acceleration pedal to see if it will help start the engine.
  30. My profile is up-to-date.





So this is where I'm at. It's coming close to a month now on my DD, and I'm getting frustrated.
 
First of all you need to verify if you really do have spark with the plugs you are using. Remove all plugs, and (1 at a time is ok if you have to) clamp their bodies to the engine block, reconnect the spark cable, turn the engine over and watch to see if you have strong spark between the electrodes (you'll be able to see it in daytime just fine).

If spark on some but not all, replace all plugs and/or spark cables.
If no spark on any, your problem has to be one of the following (in possible order of likelihood):
Fuse
Loose connection of ignition wiring/connectors
Coil
Cam angle sensor - CAS
Crank position sensor - CPS
Power transistor (to test: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=229419)
ECU
MPI relay (this powers the ECU and injectors, will have injector voltage if good)
Bad battery (check battery voltage while cranking)
Ignition wiring open or short
Shorting ignition filter capacitor (possibly intermittent and only with voltage applied, can just disconnect to see effect)
 
My money is on a bad power transistor.
They are mounted to the Intake Manifold and they supply power to your coil.
If this goes bad, you will not have spark.
Also check to see if the plug that is mounted to the timing cover right behind your intake cam is plugged in.
I believe this is the plug that carries signals from the CPS.
 
Strm Trpr said:
My money is on a bad power transistor.
They are mounted to the Intake Manifold and they supply power to your coil.
If this goes bad, you will not have spark.
Also check to see if the plug that is mounted to the timing cover right behind your intake cam is plugged in.
I believe this is the plug that carries signals from the CPS.













Well then, I guess you just lost some money.





*Cliff notes are at the bottom*





Without consulting me, the decision was made to bring it to a local shop. It was towed last week and I got it back today.

They read the codes and saw that the reading indicated the CPS was not functioning properly, or that there was no reading coming from the CPS (I'm assuming the code was P0121 because of its definition). They checked the CPS and saw that the balance shaft belt had been ripped off and chewed up.

This eerily sounded familiar. Back on June 3rd, 2006 the balance shaft belt and timing belt were changed. When we looked at and were changing the balance shaft (BS) belt, we noticed that it was severely damaged. I literally was taking off small clumps of rubber threading from what was left over of the BS belt. Some of the BS belt still remained, but it looked like it faught in both world wars.

I decided to keep the damaged belt, just in case I needed a reference for something (or perhaps for some good but sick laughs). Here are some photos I took of the OEM belt that was being replaced back in June of '06.



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As you can see, it was pretty bad. I assume that one of three things happened. Either we didn't install it properly, it was overtightened, or it was somehow rubbing on something it wasn't supposed to.

If you look in the last photo with the red box, you may notice that the belt teeth vary from being straight and upright to being damaged and cut off at the edges. This further indicates unnatural rubbing. The BS belt that has just been taken off looks very much the same, except 8 inches of the belt is clearly ripped in half (the long way).

Anyways, we replaced the belt back in June of '06, and it ripped off again less than a year later. If anyone could give some recommendations as to how to prevent this happening again, it would be much appreciated.

So it seems this is what happened recently, only this time the belt somehow hit and damaged the CPS. I'm not sure if the CPS was still in place when I was having trouble, or if it was dangling off, or what. I asked for the garage to give me back anything that was taken off and replaced. If anyone would like to see what condition my CPS is in, just ask.

So I told myself to stop effing around and get a Palm and Pocketlogger software. In the future this will come in handy.

The car seems to be running fine. The idle is much higher than I would like it to be (which is nothing a little BISS adjustment can't fix), and my EGR block-off plate finally decided to throw a CEL (for whatever reason). Odd, because it hadn't thrown its respective CEL prior to the no-start issue.

By the way, the fuses were first things to be checked, I just forgot to add them in my list. I would like to thank those individuals who helped me in diagnosing possible problems. I appreciate it. :)






Cliff notes - the balance shaft belt came off and took the CPS with it.











(Just for archive's sake, the car in question is a 1998 Eclipse GS-T.)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I guess I did lose some money, but not as much as you.
This is a prime example of why we all eliminate our Bull Shit shafts and belt.

I sure hope this has given you the proper motivation to properly eliminate that crap.

Good luck on your endeavors....
 
Trying not to look stupid as I should know this by now..
But I thought that 95-96's had both a CAS/CPS (cam) and another CAS/CPS (crank) while the 97's-99's switched to just a CAS/CPS (cam).

If this is not true then how exactly do the 95-96 cars differ from later models, in respect to the crank and cam sensors?
 
Trying not to look stupid as I should know this by now..
But I thought that 95-96's had both a CAS/CPS (cam) and another CAS/CPS (crank) while the 97's-99's switched to just a CAS/CPS (cam).

If this is not true then how exactly do the 95-96 cars differ from later models, in respect to the crank and cam sensors?

90-94 use the cas/cps combo
95-96 has the cas and cps on the timing belt side
97-99 has the cas on the throttle body side and the cps on the timing belt side
 
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