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Computer help??

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twitch231

Probationary Member
11
0
Jul 3, 2012
El Cajon, California
is it possible to have a boost leak within the computer, as in the computer is making it sputter under 7+ psi? ive been told by LOYA racing, that my boost leak (coming from o-ring in throttle body) that after replacing the TB and boost leak still existing that i may need to get a new computer. I dont know alot about computers but I dont think it can make a sputter under boost and cause fuel to run rich. Sputter DOES NOT occur under high rpms with no boost(I.E. revving in nuetral) can anyone explain to me whats going on, and if i need a new computer!?
 
Go see banishedmunk, have him do a full test, he will tell you what you don't want to hear but it's the truth
 
ive already contacted him, he said he'll probably be busy till oct/nov :/
 
That tells you hes reputation must be good. Tell him to book you for january of next year maybe he will be free then : )
 
did you leave it at loyas so he can find the problm or did you just go for him to check it out?
 
If its just a boost leak test that you need then i can get you n on an afternoon blt are free fixing the leaks goes 100.00 - 150.00 depending on how your leaking
 
I left it overnight with loya and they said they fixed the throttlebody o ring but the leak was still there, and I couldn't leave it because I didnt have the money to keep paying 400-1000, I plan on doing a blt here soon when I get time. And bandishedmunk thank you, would you be free middle of october? Id do it myself if I had a garage.
 
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if you have a boost leak tester I suggest buying a 3 gallon tank (not a compressor just the tank) and going to a gas station and doing it yourself. It sucks but since I don't have a garage I have to keep my tool collection small and a 3 gallon tank is cheap. I've made some pretty awesome boost leak testers that work great. If you can get it to hold 20 lbs for 30 seconds it should at least be drivable. if it still isn't I'd say your maf or ecu might be ####ed or something. Also check spark plug gap maybe? if its high (0.36+) I wouldn't be surprised if such little boost was causing the spark to blow out.
 
Thank for the information Tstkl, I will try it out :thumb: and I know how you feel with the small tool collection, you just wanna go buy more, but without a garage, you cant have much haha. thanks for all your help guys.
 
Try and see if you can do a boost leak test yourself first. I would also try replacing your plugs ($2 each at auto parts store) and wires (about $40). My car had a similar problem but I did a blt and it was solid to 20 psi. Replaced the plugs and wires and now it runs like a champ!
 
Would you happen to know what my plugs are supposed to be gapped to?Or where i can find it out? i know that (for my job) the Predator Spy Plane, a boxer style 4 cyl. uses .26 on plugs. but im not sure if more horsepower or bigger boost plays a part in all of that

My car is supposed to run at 25 psi and has roughly 400 hp
there was a thread on here that says to gap to .28 but it also said dsmers use .26 and .30-.32 and some have low boost, as i have high boost
 
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what brand and part number plugs are they? First of all, every motor is different so your UAV motor being .26 is just coincidence. I believe oem recommends .28-.32, but I was mainly looking for something like someone used the 2g n/t spec (which is .46ish if I remember correctly) or something like that. if your in that range I don't think it would cause horrific issues like you discribe. I'd say .28 is fine.

also, ngk bpres7 if I remember correctly for the plugs. Its been a while so you probably should double check all this stuff.
 
Just for reference on how important that 0 really is.
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