tried every thing-still over heaating help!!!1

[mopar4Life]

my car keeps over heating replaced old radiator hoses water pump and thermo stat but still over heats keeps coming out the over flow tank and i also have a new radiator cap so its not that and i have a afc and i run it a bit rich to keep it cooli am so lost oh yeah and i rebuilt the engine like 4k ago and it was a just a rering and a head job please help

 

[IronnFisTT]

this maybe a silly question, but is your radiator fan working?

-attia
94 Tsi AWD
98 Supra Turbo

 

[mopar4Life]

yes actually i wired them to run all the time no matter what

 

[racer]

well may be u have some shit in the engine block that doesant lett the the hot coolant to circulate fast enough.I duno just trying to help with someting.

 

[jott5555]

blows head gasket, do a compression test and you would be supprised

 

[ArticNemesis]

Or it could be a cheapo replacement radiator.

Or maybe you have too much coolant in your antifreeze mix, so it can't transfer enough heat. I had to install pusher fans on the front of my radiator to keep my car from overheating..

 

[mopar4Life]

i tried 50 50 and tried all water and still over heated but about the head gasket itsw brand new only 6k or so on the rebuild so why would it blow so soon cause i havent really beat it up that much

 

[IronnFisTT]

Are you sure the head and block were perfectly flat before you installed your new headgasket? If not, that could be your reason for a leaky gasket.

-attia
94 Tsi AWD
98 Supra Turbo

 

[RACER-X]

I had that same problem when i first bought my GSX. Checked head gasket, coolant, checkd for leaks, compression test, and came up empty. The engine bay got so hot i actually melted my cooling fan.

Everyone kept telling me to check my exhaust manifold for an exhaust leak, but no that wasnt it. I was told it was caused by my turbo (S20g) building up so much heat with no exhaust manifold shield...... well i bought a manifold shield form Matt (thanks!). The day i went to put the shield on i looked down and saw that i had blown my gasket on my o2 housing right where it buts up to the down pipe, which finally made since caues it would be blowing directly at the fan.

I would check both the back side of your head gasket; make sure it not blown out back there, then check you exhaust gaskets cause they will create more heat than any cooling fan can cool down. I was running with my a/c on and wasnt getting anything but hot air.

Do you have a egt gauge? what is it reading?

 

[mopar4Life]

i dont have a egt gauge but the thing is its a brand new head gasket , exhaust gasket and i have a cover over my manifold and the fans are on all the time and not just one both plus i dont have an evasporator in front of my radiator so it gets lke 2x the flow

 

[IronnFisTT]

Just becuase its a brand new gasket doesnt mean its sealing properly. If you installed it on a warped block or head, its not going to seal period. Did you have your head and block decked when you rebuilt the motor? If not and assuming you worked with true surfaces, did you scrape off all the old gasket to give it a nice sealing surface? Are you running a metal or composite type gasket?

Lastly, how do you know its overheating? If youre basing this solely on the cockpit gauge, maybe your gauge is messed up. Log it and see what comes up on the logger.

-attia
94 Tsi AWD
98 Supra Turbo

 

[mopar4Life]

i had the head decked when i rebuilt it and the valves cut and stuff also i cleaned the crap ou t of the block and im positive its over heating becaue its getting so hot that is coming out the over flow tank and steaming the shit out of the collant so i cant even keep the collant in there its getting so hot

 

[mopar4Life]

ohh yeah and its a metal head gasket

 

[IronnFisTT]

well, youve checked all the basics.. thermostat, rad cap, water pump, coolant, radiator, fans, ect... Now you might have consider the head gasket some more. Maybe your block is warped? You didnt mention that you had that checked. The "downfall" to metal HG's are that they really need a completely flat surface to seal proplery.

Lastly, you said your cars overheating... not sure how long it was overheating for but you could have warped your head.

-attia

 

[GTM]

Originally posted by mopar4Life
...
im positive its over heating becaue its getting so hot that is coming out the over flow tank and steaming the shit out of the collant so i cant even keep the collant in there its getting so hot

I would strongly advise you get a block check.

This is Snap-On unit and the replacement fluid which should be available from any truck.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/pro....05&group_name=Leak+Testers&store=snapon-store

With a minimal effort you could make you own by using an aquarium air stone which will bubble the gas through the liquid. With a suitable cork in place of the radiator cap and the air-stone installed inside a turkey baster you can then suck the gas out of the top of the cooling system. The liquid will change from dark blue to urine yellow.

There are other companies who make this unit Block Chk(sp) being the more common name. I rarely see these in the chain auto parts stores. A radiator repair shop would also be able to perform the check as well.
You could call up some shops and ask what they charge to do a block check

If you are not getting a complete bleed of the heater you will also get an overheat as the air washes back into the head and stop the w/p from priming.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[DSMeclipse4G63]

burp the system of air...if there arent any leaks and the head gasket and everything is in good shape you have signifacant air in the system. Burp it and you should be fine(if everything else is fine). Good luck.
Andrew

 

[ArticNemesis]

Originally posted by DSMeclipse4G63
burp the system of air...if there arent any leaks and the head gasket and everything is in good shape you have signifacant air in the system. Burp it and you should be fine(if everything else is fine). Good luck.
Andrew

What exactly is burping the cooling system.? I mean I know force up any air, but how do you go about doing it.?

 

[DSMeclipse4G63]

run the car with the rad cap off the coolant level will drop and youll see bubbles.keep topping off the coolant water mixture until it stays at the top for good, and always remeber that coolant alone has NO cooling capabilities at all its the water that does the cooling the glycole(cant spell tonight) is there to prevent rust and other such wear.

Common signs of air pockets are one everything is fine and the car still over heats and sometimes when you put the heat on it doesnt come out hot. Good luck
Andrew

 

[mopar4Life]

should i use water only when i try this and them repalce it with collant and water later

 

[DSMeclipse4G63]

When you fill the coolant system use the 50/50 mixture as before and start the car and let it get up to temp and add coolant when nessesary like I said above. If you used 50/50 mixture there is no need to flush and refill, just open the cap let it run and when done you should be fine(if the rest of the system is good).
Andrew

 

[mopar4Life]

Thanks for the tips im going to try this block/die tester i think they rent them at auto zone i'l find out. THanks again every one

 

[GTM]

Originally posted by mopar4Life
Thanks for the tips im going to try this block/die tester i think they rent them at auto zone i'l find out. THanks again every one

If you go to Auto Zone would you ask if they sell them? How much?

Mine was stolen some years back and since I'm semi-retired I've not replaced it. I've a couple projects which only this can give me the answer as to which way I procede. They are very effective but let me down only one time in the hundreds of head gasket jobs I've done... Customer came in on a wait basis complaining about overheat, of course the engine was hot which was the normal method to make the test. In this case the results were negative so sent him on his way. Few days later he's back again and I check again, this time it's a come-back and I'm even more thorough, same results, send him on his way. A few days later here he is again for the 3rd time but had been told if he came back he'd have to leave overnight so I could check in the morning after the car sat. Sure as s..t, within 10 seconds of starting the car comes Old Faithful, bubbles galore. I continue to test and within 2 minutes of testing the leak dissappeared. Never have I had that situation before, all I can figure was as things expanded it would seal the leak and the car would run all day without pumping any more water and no more gases. I cite this only to make you aware that though the recommended procedure is to make the test with a properly warmed up engine it can pass the test with incorrect results, thus a test cold may show positive results.

The liquid I believe is "Phenol Blue"(?), the CO saturation which trips it into changing to yellow is completely reversable if you remove the tool to clean air and pump a couple dozen times will return to it's normal blue color. If you want to test that it works you can stick the end near the exhaust and give a few pumps and will turn instantly yellow. So you can recycle the liquid to make it more cost effective. It's hard to recommend for a home mechanic to spend $50+ for a tool they will only use a couple times in their lifetime and not all shops have them much less individual mechanics. But when you have a problem such as yours and everything points to combustion gases leaking into the system you have to know. It may not be a head gasket but a crack in the head or block that they didn't see. Once you know then comes the problem of who is going to make the repairs and who is going to pay for them.

Let us know the results and if they sell the block check unit.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[mopar4Life]

i havent tried it yet but i bought a block tester at auto zone for 20 and fluid for 6 it is just like a big valved turkey baster that sucks air pockets out of your cooling system and tests them but havent tried it yet gonna tomorrow

 

[GTM]

Originally posted by mopar4Life
i havent tried it yet but i bought a block tester at auto zone for 20 and fluid for 6 it is just like a big valved turkey baster that sucks air pockets out of your cooling system and tests them but havent tried it yet gonna tomorrow

Thanks for getting back with the $20 unit and $6 fluid costs. Was that from Auto Zone?

Do test it within the first minute of warming up and then after it's gotten to operating temp. Try to not let the fluid get contaminated by sucking up coolant in the unit. All tests can be done with the radiator cap off. If you need to force it to get warm because it's so cold where you are you can put a sheet of newspaper or cardboard in front of the radiator. As perviously mentioned you can recycle the fluid by purging it with fresh air, it's up to you if you want to return it to the bottle.

Lets hope the results are negative but if they are positive it least you will know the head has to come back off.

Let us know.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[mopar4Life]

i filled her up 50/50 water antifreze got her warmed up kept trying to test it but couldnt get any thing past a little bit green its suposed to turn yellow but coulndt get it to tested it lke 8 time and changed the fluid 3 times just in case the tester fluid got contaminated. im gonna try ti repalace the radiator cap even though it only a year or so old maybe im gonna try any thning at this point


oh and yes i got the tester from auto zone