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won't turn over

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GhostToast

Probationary Member
25
0
Jan 3, 2003
hello all

i have been having electrical charging system problems lately and decided to take out my newly rebuilt alternator myself to have it tested. it worked fine...put it back in (was a real pain) however the last time that we ran the car with the alternator still on (before removal) the engine shut itself off.

i attributed this to the battery probably being low...however it did seem like a particularly noisey self-termination...with a somewhat painful sounding almost fan-clunking noise.

upon turning the car over when the alternator was back in, i could not. it started making a horrible clicking/whirring noise (in the starter?) when the key was partyway round, and in full engage mode it was trying to turn over but would not. it also was making a sort of knocking noise rhythmically, probably about 2 beats per second.

i gave it a rest. tried some more later. i decided to check the oil. was dangerously low... added a ton. still no go.

i am very very afraid i funked my engine up from no oil (stupid thing's gauge does not work properly...)

someone said it could be my timing belt though...or possibly my ECU was fried...the first time we tried to start it it produced a bit of smoke which leaked out of the air intake...

please tell me if there is anything i can do. even if i could just run the car once for 200 miles one last time...i have my old (good) engine and tranny waiting for this car from my old wrecked car (my poor baby got struck by a bad driver)
 
Ouch, clunking sound eh? Sounds like bent valves man. I had the same problem:thumbdown . This is due to timing belt being off. Check out the timing belt teeth and timing marks. Smoke is problably oil leaking through the valves man. Doesn't seem like you're going to be driving it any time soon. Good luck, maybe someone else has better news (I doubt it).
 
that blows
but thanks for replying

oh well...i'm getting ready to take a train to PA to pick up an 87 conquest with a rebuilt, less than 10k mile 89 engine. it will have to do despite not having a radio until i can combine my lasers. too bad it's way too cold to put in a sound system (no speakers are the actual problem). i'll just have to hum along to the aftermarket turbo.
 
Originally posted by GhostToast
[B [/B]

Have you done a compression check? Have you checked the front pulley/harmonic balancer?

Cheers,
GTM
 
no and i suppose i dont know how. i'm afraid to spend any money on my car since soon (if i can) i will be doing a full swap. so if i take it to a shop and i pay 300 bucks and dont get anything fixed, i'll just be too poor to continue on any projects =(
 
Originally posted by GhostToast
no and i suppose i dont know how. i'm afraid to spend any money on my car since soon (if i can) i will be doing a full swap. so if i take it to a shop and i pay 300 bucks and dont get anything fixed, i'll just be too poor to continue on any projects =(

I don't mean to be a wet blanket but if you are thinking of swapping out a 1.8 engine for a 2.0 engine you may be very unhappy with the results. This change has been a nightmare for several people who have tried and few people will be able to help. It's a lot more work than you think and may prove to be beyond your skill level.
...................

You need a compression gage which you can buy on sale for $20 from Harbor Freight.http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39224

The crank pulley on the 2.0 engines is famous for the rubber harmonic balancer ring breaking and requires replacment. I am told the 1.8 and 2.0 are not the same. You need to remove the plastic panel which blinds the pulley so you can look and pull on the outer porting of the pulley to see if it's loose or broken. This pulley drives the alternator belt and if broken you won't be able to charge the battery. Of course you should have already checked the belt tension.

Let us know what you find.

Cheers,
GTM
 
Originally posted by GhostToast
i dont know why on earth i wrote 1.8

all i have are 2.0s

Ahha, start calling to locate the pulley. Another member just replaced his for $11.00 from a DIY yard, dealer was asking $140.

Let's hope that's it and not bent valves.

Cheers,
GTM
 
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