Car died on highway - Indications are a failed alternator?

[HokieDSM]

I was driving back from visiting with my family yesterday, headed back around 10pm. I noticed about 5mi out that my dash lights seemed unusually dim, but thought my eyes were just playing tricks on me. I got onto the highway, and drove for a while, and noticed that they appeared to be getting slowly dimmer.

I made a few more turns onto other highways, and after a while, my ABS light popped on first, then my CD changer cut out, and after a few more minutes, the power to the radio cut out. I suspected that my alternator had died out on me, and hoped that my battery would last to get me home. I cut out all the electrical systems I could, dimmed my dash lights, turned out the fogs - but had to keep the headlights on, since it was nighttime and at 70mph on the highway.

About 20mi later, the lights had dimmed to the point I couldn't see much of anything, and the engine backfired 3 or four times and cut out. I coasted to the side of the road, and the car wouldn't start after that.

I suspect a dead alternator, but there had been no prior indications that it was on its way out. I waited for 3.5 hrs(!) for AAA to come tow the car, and they ended up towing it to some random shop 15mi north of where I was (I was headed south, and my coverage wouldn't get me the 40mi or so home). I'm going to call the shop in the morning - but is my analysis correct, or what else could it be?

Please help!

 

[HokieDSM]

BTW - I'm sure someone will ask about my alternator belt - I replaced it about 5 weeks ago after it shredded on me after running in a road-rally in the pinebarrens, and made sure the tension was correct and that everything was in-spec, so that shouldn't be the problem.

Thanks for anyone's help.

 

[mitsutuner]

100% correcto, worn out brushes in the alternater.
It's a little bit of a pain to get at, have to remove the rad fan on the drivers side, adjust tension loose on drivebelt, disconnect connectors, unbolt & remove alt.
You can have it rebuilt or replace the brushes inside yourself--I took mine to an auto electric shop & let them replace the brushes, they check check the voltage regulater on it, which was ok. The rebuild cost me less than $60 with a 1 yr warranty. A rebuilt 1 off the shelf is considerably more

 

[mitsutuner]

I think I also had to unbolt the power steering pump at it's mounts & move it to the side without disconnecting the hose. The alt is just below the PS pump. Disconnect the ground wire on the battery before you start--you're looking at 1 hr to remove, 1hr to install & adjust belt tensions.

 

[BUCK]

I did it from the bottom with car on ramps - much easier & you can leave the P/S Pump on - make sure you have no P/S Fluid leaks before installing your new Alt.

 

[mitsutuner]

If you want to work on it at home, have the shop put a full charge on the battery & you can drive it about 5 miles with everything electrical turned off. You'll need 10,12 & 14 mm sockets & wrenches.

 

[mitsutuner]

yes, your belt is OK. If after you start the car, you hear the horrifying squeal on startup or when cold in the morning the next day,, just tighten the PS belt until the squeal goes away.

 

[kurupt]

my car did the exact same thing the day i bought it! first i went to insure it, came outside and it wouldn't start, i was right beside a performance shop, so i just went in and bought a new battery. car started up no problem, got out onto the highway maybe 20 miles or so and it died, i could fire it back up every few minutes, but it kept on goin dead. turns out it was corrosion on the end of the alternator wire...cost me $178 to find that out...great first day dsm experience...

 

[mitsutuner]

OK, you win, I had mine 4 days when the alt when out. I was first in lin at a red light, very busy intersection. Luckily, my 4'11" honey was with me, she steered I pushed for 1 entire block before finding a spot to legally park it, only she couldn't push the non-powered power brakes hard enough & plowed into the back of a van. We took a cab & got her car & jump charged my Batt enough to drive it home. She's hated the car since that day & so do I, it's a freakin full-time maintainance job--these cars have very serious midlife crises. I had it 15 months, wanted to fix it up & give to my nephew, only he's not interested in working on cars--I could sell it for about 25% of what I spent on parts & repairs & I did 95% of the work. Someday I'll wise-up & cut my losses by driving it into the pacific ocean & I'm sure it will sink intermittently.i

 

[HokieDSM]

Thanks for all your help guys.

Originally posted by mitsutuner
If after you start the car, you hear the horrifying squeal on startup or when cold in the morning the next day,, just tighten the PS belt until the squeal goes away.

Nope, no squealing here. I had squealing for six hours after going through a waterhole at the rally, and then finallly the belt shredded, so we replaced it in 20mins or so the next day.

these cars have very serious midlife crises

So true. I bought this particular one at 88k, and paid a high price for it, because the previous owner said it'd been very reliable and had never left him stranded.

I've learned that if someone says that, that just means there's lots of stuff just waiting to break. I've so far replaced the throwout bearing, clutch pedal assembly, drivers' side tierod end, both front axles, thermostat, alternator belt, and now the alternator, not to mention all the wonderful *cough* goodies on the way.

All part of the game, it is

 

[mitsutuner]

While you have your tools out, go ahead & take off the heat shield over your exhaust manifol & inspect it for cracks. Also take a look at the vacuum hose where it attaches to the cruise control servo unit. Take a look at how your spark plug wires are routed--goober mechanics like to jam the wires as a bundle into the crevice between the timing belt cover and the motor. I bet the previous owner told you the timing belt service was done on scedule at 60k, but by now you know he's a liar. If you take off the top timing belt cover to inspect the belt, you will notice that the belt seems very loose--don't panic--this is NORMAL,(the spring tension on the valve cams turn them towards each other when the motor is not running).

 

[HokieDSM]

The timing belt & plug wires are just fine - I've inspected them plenty over the time I've had the car. I also did some testing on the manifold/o2 housing, and they're okay too. The previous owner was a DSM fanatic, he's got about 6 of them, and my car was running a FP Green setup which ran an 11.94 before I bought it with a ported 14b which has been doing pretty well. But in any case, I know he knows what he's done with the car. Lord knows, I paid enough for it.


I am, however trying to work out a couple other bugs - mostly just a bogging in 1st gear, which I'm gonna get out my pocketlogger and do some testing with - but that's for another thread

 

[mitsutuner]

OK, I eat my words about the previous owner. He could be right about his reliability experience because it sounds like he's an ace mechanic & knows how to stay ahead of the mantenance game. It's good to know the history of the car, that alone is worth extra money. My buddy was the original 1 owner of my car--he doesn't know jack about cars & whips out his bankcard for everything. But he did keep every reciept since the car was new & to be honest, I was fighting the tears as I read through them--big money & the mech did a lot of sloppy work & easter-egg-hunt diagnostics at my buddies expense. Ironically, my buddy thought the mech was very knowledgeble!