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Ah! idle screw is gone!! what now?

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TheTSiGuy

15+ Year Contributor
989
0
Nov 5, 2003
Naperville IL, Illinois
i was adjusting the biss (idle control, right?) and i guess i turned it counterclockwise too far, because my car was acting up, wanting to die. I looked under the hood, and the screw was gone. Looks like it completely popped out. What do i do? can the dealer get me a new one?

Also, does running lean have a smell to it? like when you run rich, you can smell all the fuel being burnt?
 
Originally posted by TheTSiGuy
i was adjusting the biss (idle control, right?) and i guess i turned it counterclockwise too far, because my car was acting up, wanting to die. I looked under the hood, and the screw was gone. Looks like it completely popped out. What do i do? can the dealer get me a new one?

Also, does running lean have a smell to it? like when you run rich, you can smell all the fuel being burnt?

Ask your friends to thrash you about head and shoulders... scold, scold scold.

Shove a ball point pen in the hole, wrap tape, buy new part. Send $5000 to pobox xyz.

Dunnow about dealership, wrecking yard maybeeeee,
 
I have no idea how it came off, honestly. I didnt know how loose too loose is.

you honestly think a dealership wouldnt have this part? Is it that uncommon? Im getting kind of scared now.

Ballpoint pen ought to work?

Thanks!
Jim
 
well,i jammed a ball point pen in there, and taped it up. car is running fine now. Although, ive got to say, its REALLY odd seeing a pen and tape under my engine bay :laugh:

Im thinking maye if reset the ecu, maybe stuff will start working as it was before. Any ideas to that?

And now my pop up lights wont go down. i must have messed something up somewhere. Rrrrrv :mad: :mad:
 
Originally posted by TheTSiGuy
ah, and also...would i be able to smell my car running lean?

Ya gotta be kidding, I could smell all the spices in my food... now I cant figure out if someone passed gas in front of me 3 cars up

Geepers, I've not had to think about this in a long time... so the answer is y and n. Depends on smell, eyes, and taste..

Since I've seen this on TV I'll repeat it is copyprotected.

Aint it nice the TV shows get thier material from your problems...

The next time I see this crap on TV someone is going to be exposed.

You ask a question, as a professional I gave an answer. As much as I like this place I will not be a part of my 40 years experience while someone rapes my knowledge and pretends it is their own.

GD doctors have ethics, lawyers have ethics WHT f... we aint got nuttin but low class garbage for your TV show.

I say this because the vhicle you are driving is very sophisticated. Aint no body gonna look at some non performer, ...

I sign as GTM
 
When you pick up the screw - get the little rubber cover that goes over the hole too... and if you turned it THAT FAR - did you do it while setting the idle & timing correctly - where is your timing at?

from the VFAQ: http://www.vfaq.com/FAQlocator-index.html

1G BISS Adjustment
Setting the Base Idle Speed Screw
If you've added any mods to your car that increase airflow through the engine (especially IC pipes or a frontmount IC), you may have a problem with the car stalling, or the idle oscillating up and down when coming to a stop. One of the most common causes is the BISS screw being out of adjustment. Another reason to change the BISS setting is if you have moved to a higher or lower elevation and you are experiencing the above symptoms.

The BISS helps the ECU maintain idle. The ECU uses the Idle Speed Control (ISC) stepper motor to hold the idle speed as constant as possible. The ECU counts on the ISC being in the center of its operating range to have as much control over the idle as possible. While the BISS may have worked fine on a stock car, as soon as you start increasing airflow, you can push the system to the point where the BISS is not bypassing the proper amount of air past the throttle, so the ECU has to push the ISC stepper motor past the halfway point to maintain proper idle speed. Stalling happens if the BISS is set wrong, the ECU pushes the ISC to full lock, and can't push it any farther, and full lock of the ISC is not giving enough airflow to keep the engine running.

Setting the BISS involves grounding 2 connectors, one next to the interior fusebox, one next to the battery, then turning the BISS until the car idles at 750rpm (for 1G manual trans cars). Grounding these 2 connectors removes ECU control of idle, and centers the ISC in its range. Once you have set the idle speed to 750rpm, you then disconnect the grounds to allow the computer to control the idle again.

The following conditions should be met before setting the BISS:

Engine coolant temp 185-205 degrees F (engine fully warmed up with the temp needle near straight up)
Lights, cooling fan, and accessories OFF
Tranny in neutral
Steering wheel in neutral position (centered, no load on the power steering)
 
Thanks for that link and info buck. i appreciate it.

And GTM, wtf are you talking about? That was plain gibberish to me. If my stupid problems make you mad, my aplogies.

Hopefully i should be able to get this sorted out. Im really hoping the mitsubishi dealer will have a biss screw in stock.

Thanks guys!
 
Originally posted by TheTSiGuy
well,i jammed a ball point pen in there, and taped it up. car is running fine now. Although, ive got to say, its REALLY odd seeing a pen and tape under my engine bay :laugh:

Im thinking maye if reset the ecu, maybe stuff will start working as it was before. Any ideas to that?

And now my pop up lights wont go down. i must have messed something up somewhere. Rrrrrv :mad: :mad:

I don't know you, thought you had a problem. Gave answers to _your_ problem. haha don't stick pen in tb shove it...

Hello Nick, is this the way it is going to be for I'm not here for the amusement of all these twits who will insult.

GTM
 
Well, i found the biss screw. Im sooooo lucky. it was dropped down into the motor somewhere, so i snatched it up. all is well with that now.

And GTM, i dont know man...you seem smart, but you may need to get that multiple personality thing checked out dude :laugh:


Ah ok. so i just gotta figure out why

1.) my factory boost gauge doesnt work

2.) why my pop up headlights wont go down now

3.) why my speedometer needle is messed up.

Whew..
 
Originally posted by TheTSiGuy
Well, i found the biss screw. Im sooooo lucky. it was dropped down into the motor somewhere, so i snatched it up. all is well with that now.

Whew..

When you are a hundred miles from nowhere and that screw falls out forget what I said. But on the outside chance I may know what I'm talking about would you like some milk and sugar while eating that hat.

See, I've been there and done that on my cars and customer's cars. Sure I could have lied to them and said you can't drive it, the part will be here in 3 days. I don't remember any of them laughing at ME when I showed them the temporary fix. Who knows, maybe you thought I was feeding you a line.

Now you got the part you can throw away the Bic, until you are ready to set it correctly, turn the screw in till it stops... just two fingers on the screwdriver please, then back it out 3 complete turns, if you loose count start over. Chances are if no one has played with anything else you will be within 1/2 turn of being on the money. That should get you to work and back for a couple of days. If you can't get the "O" ring then shove a wad of electrical tape down there to keep it from backing out again.

I'll let someone else deal with the rest of your list. So where do I send the money for the therapy session...
 
ok, question.

Can me setting my biss wrong cause me to run either lean or rich?

Thanks guys!
 
Originally posted by TheTSiGuy

Can me setting my biss wrong cause me to run either lean or rich?

It's a Basic Idle Speed Screw. It lets air past the throttle plate for the car to use at idle. The ECU reads what the O2 sensor is picking up, and adjusts fuel to [pretty much] match. Once you're off idle, the BISS is out of the equation, as the vacuum in the plenum isn't strong enough to bother with that passage much.
To keep from losing it again, once you have it set, give the top of it and its threads a quick blast of WD-40, and then put a gob of silicone seal over the hole. The silicone will cure and secure the screw, but if you need to get to it again, will peel right out with an awl stuck into it.

Go easy on GTM, he's ancient as hell. Sometimes he gets to the keyboard when the nurse isn't watching him. If any of us get to hear _half_ of what he's _learned_, we'll be lucky people.

Of course, you have to catch him between his ...er... spells.
 
Originally posted by Defiant

...
Go easy on GTM, he's ancient as hell. Sometimes he gets to the keyboard when the nurse isn't watching him. If any of us get to hear _half_ of what he's _learned_, we'll be lucky people.
Of course, you have to catch him between his ...er... spells.

Whap, ouch!

Back when the Feds were overseeing our industry they required steel plugs to cap off the BISS hole. So you had to take a drill poke a hole through the plug, insert a sheet metal screw and give a yank. Then before you could put a screwdrive on it the compressed air to blow the chips out, and when finished you had to get new plug for the next poor bas...d to remove.

(Remember the 85 mph speedo on a 140 mph bike) We got to be protected from ourselves. Not all of these BISS screws were in the same position on different installations, so you had to pull the air flow meter or throttle body just to drill the stupid plug. That's where I got in the habit of using a wad of electrical tape for if you didn't let the car warm up and then went on a road test just when you thought you were finishid with the plug installed... time is money so you are already mad at standing on your head or having to put the d..ned car on a lift to poke a drill in there.

Digging any kind of glue including gorilla snot is enough to make you say bad words.

Nurse, nurse! beam me up...

Cheers,
GTM
 
Originally posted by GTM
Whap, ouch!

Back when the Feds were overseeing our industry they required steel plugs to cap off the BISS hole. So you had to take a drill poke a hole through the plug, insert a sheet metal screw and give a yank.
BT/DT. Lots of times.
(Remember the 85 mph speedo on a 140 mph bike)
Yeah, I lucked out, got between the raindrops. My '79 GS1000S not only has the real speedo, it has the illegal headlight switch. Which came in real handy the time the stator went out halfway between Napa and SF, and let me ride it back home.
Digging any kind of glue including gorilla snot is enough to make you say bad words.
That's why you lube it up, and use a glue like silicone that'll keep itself in one piece. That goddamned 3M Trim and Upholstery glue shouldn't be allowed out of the seat shop. I've fought enough miles of that crap, trying to get through some pinheaded mechanic's fear of a dripping comeback. There are better assurances that it won't leak.
Nurse, nurse! beam me up...
Time for meds.... and a spongebath.
 
Originally posted by MyRidzPhucked
you're lucky cause 2 dealerships i've gone to told me i needed a whole new TB, that they didnt habe the BISS as a part in the books... :mad:
Lying bastards. Conceilly [sp?] has them for sure, as do most of the DSM outfitters. AND any honest dealership.
 
Originally posted by Defiant
Lying bastards. Conceilly [sp?] has them for sure, as do most of the DSM outfitters. AND any honest dealership.

Went to dealership and Micro Fisch couldn't find a listing. Had to bag one out of a wrecking yard car for my son. I've heard the same complaint before. You have a P/N for it?
.................
BTW, help me out with this other thread.
"WHERES MY BOOST? turbo replacement"
I'm running out of ideas for this young fellow.

Cheers,
GTM
 
Originally posted by Defiant
Lying bastards. Conceilly [sp?] has them for sure, as do most of the DSM outfitters. AND any honest dealership.

hahaha shouldnt go to them crystler dealerships... but i dont have a mitsu dealership for a long ways away.
 
Originally posted by GTM
Went to dealership and Micro Fisch couldn't find a listing. Had to bag one out of a wrecking yard car for my son. I've heard the same complaint before. You have a P/N for it?
.................base idle set screw is MD614948 and it's an, "Adjusting Screw, Throttle Body". I don't know if that's a Mits number or Eagle, but I'd suspect Mits.
BTW, help me out with this other thread.
"WHERES MY BOOST? turbo replacement"
I'm running out of ideas for this young fellow.
Oh, no. I'm having a good enough time watching that one. You hit that tar baby, keep swinging.:D :thumb: :D
 
Originally posted by Defiant
.................base idle set screw is MD614948 and it's an, "Adjusting Screw, Throttle Body". I don't know if that's a Mits number or Eagle, but I'd suspect Mits.
....................
>Thanks for that info, I'll save to disk for next time.
....................

Oh, no. I'm having a good enough time watching that one. You hit that tar baby, keep swinging.:D :thumb: :D


Coward!!! :) Somehow I think he's overlooked something, deluded himself that it was good or there is something he's not reporting. Then again it could be a plant searching for book material... ?

Cheers,
GTM
 
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