boost won't go over 0psi

[90LaserRSTurbo]

my turbo won't build boost higher than 0-1 psi. I have searched numerous sites to find out what could be causing it, but haven't found a solid answer. it is a 1990 plymouth laser rs turbo with the only mod being the air can removal. the exhaust also has a large hole which i am going to be fixing soon, could this cause the turbo to not build boost? any help would be much appreciated.

 

[crazyjoe]

depends where the hole is. If it's before teh turbo, then yeah, if it's after the turbo, then not so much.

 

[1gAWD^PSI]

dose it spool up?

 

[90LaserRSTurbo]

The hole is after the turbo. So if that isn't the problem, then what could be? I'm not sure if it spools up(can't hear the turbo over the hole in the exhaust). I was able to get it to produce boost once but only when i dumped the clutch in first and the boost went to about 4 psi, but it will normally go above 7psi.

 

[splattj]

For starters, what are you using to measure boost? Do you have a "real" (aftermarket) boost gauge or are you reading the one in the factory gauge cluster? If the car is running okay but not building boost, take off the intake pipe and check the turbine wheel on the turbo to make sure it spins freely and doesn't have much "play" (side to side or in and out movement.) If the turbo seems okay it could be the wastgate is either stuck open or more likely eroded so that the valve no longer covers the hole.

If the car is running like total crap you could have a major boost leak. The factory rubber intake hoses are known to split after a while and the factory intercooler has been known to corrode at the inlet and outlet pipes.

A clogged exhaust might cause your turbo not to spool but a hole should not.

Let us know what you find.

 

[90LaserRSTurbo]

So the turbine wheel should spin freely with the engine off? Because if it is supposed to then I have problems. I took off the intake pipe and tried to spin the turbine wheel and it seems to be locked inplace and will not spin.

 

[splattj]

Yeah. It's supposed to spin freely. If you look at the wheel with a flashlight you may even see that it crashed into the compressor housing and bent up all the fins. If not the bearings are seized. Either way you probably need a new turbo.

 

[AwdEi]

That sucks...it is time for a new turbo.

If I were you, I would go all out and upgrade to a massive turbo, unless you are not looking to be fast. If decently quick is all you're looking for, I guess just go with a 16g.

But, if you can find a replacement 14b, that works, for cheap, then go with it.

 

[Dieselboy]

In order to upgrade, you will need to get supporting mods FIRST

But this sounds like a case of a completely seized turbo. If the wheel does not spin or takes alot of effort to spin, then its completely seized and you'd might as well trash the turbo (for the price of a rebuild, just get a new turbo). 16G's are their lowest prices ever so check out a 16G. It bolts on, you dont need to change anything, is a big upgrade from a stock 14B, and you wont need supporting mods just to get your car running again. Good luck.

 

[90LaserRSTurbo]

This does suck. But how hard would it be to rebuild my turbo? Also, how much would a 16g be, and what all would I have to do to my engine to make the 16g compatible? The way things are going right now I will probably just leave it the way it is now and get the turbo fixed or replaced at the end of winter/beginning of spring, I was already planning on a new exhaust in the spring and possible a few other things. Thanks for the help diagnosing my problem.

 

[splattj]

Slowboyracing has a small 16g for 499.00 shipped
Extremepsi has them for 490.00 + shipping
You get the idea. Shop around. Use the parts catalog here even.

 

[GoSpeedRacerGo]

A new 16g can be had for around 600 shipped. You can find used ones for half that. For 1g's they are completley bolt on.

 

[splattj]

Rebuilding your own turbo properly is very difficult and to have it rebuilt and not have problems with it is becoming less common. I've seen multiple turbos fail just after rebuild. The rebuilder always claimed oil starvation or oil contamination (never one of my own thank goodness) and never repaired them under warranty. I would just go with the 16g. The small 16 spools just like the 14b and makes a bit more power and the big 16 is just a bit slower spooling and makes a bit more power then the small 16. Anyhow, a small 16g running stock boost doesn't take any suppporting mods......

 

[spoolinawddsm]

Originally posted by 90LaserRSTurbo
So the turbine wheel should spin freely with the engine off? Because if it is supposed to then I have problems. I took off the intake pipe and tried to spin the turbine wheel and it seems to be locked inplace and will not spin.

heh this reminds me of my 14b i just put on my 2g... shaft was completly locked up i mean wouldnt move at all. Grabbed a 12 point 12mm wrench and dumped oil in the turbo and spun the hell outta it till it broke itself loose. After about an hour it spun as the day it did new, ( i shit you not) the 14b is a strong turbo i give this little thing props. Ohh and to let you know it spools great and holds 10 pounds + till redline (mbc not hooked up yet).

 

[Enigma_Man]

I'd also reccommend the 16G. It's a great turbo, cheap, and it bolts on perfectly on a 1G.

I put mine on myself, and it takes me half an hour to change my oil (it took me a weekend worth to get the 16G on).

-Jesse