The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Pasanger Power Window Button Replacement... help!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

CYrUs0k5

20+ Year Contributor
338
1
Mar 1, 2003
Mishawaka, Indiana
Somehow my power window button and lock button got "pushed down" into the door and I need to replace them... is there a way to take off that single pannel without taking off the entire door pannel? I dont want to pull on the wrong thing and break the damn plastic :(:thumb: :dsm:
 
I just did this yesterday on the driver's side. There's 4 screws holding the window switch, and they go up toward the top of the switch, into hollow tubes molded into the door trim piece. Unfortunately, they used short little screws, and -proof we're all driving American cars- the plastic formulation just isn't up to the stress of a decade of use. All 4 of mine were broken-off (this would NEVER happen in a Toyota). I was in a hurry to make a movie, so I just found longer screws. Seems like it'll be fine, but one day I'll open it up and epoxy them in besides, if I never find the plastic center trim part to replace.

You do have to pull the door panel, but it's an easy job- 4 screws around the edge, one under the handle latch which holds that piece of trim in, and one in the finger-pocket under the little squarish cover- it pops out with either your fingernail or a small screwdriver. If one of the little tabs breaks off of it, I'd put it back in with a small dab of silicone sealant. There are about 8 plastic snap-ins under the panel, around the edge, just pop them out with your fingers on the edge of the panel. Try to get them all to come off with the door, but if they don't and there's any left in the door when th panel's off, pry the remaining ones out with a small screwdriver.

The connector for the window switch has a release button on the side of it, like all the connectors.

It's a good idea to fill the space under the trim panel with spray expanding insulation foam ("Great Stuff" from the hardware store) to help deaden the door noise and help the speakers out. Just don't spray on too much so that the panel won't settle back onto the door.

Only thing to be careful of is when you're re-assembling, watch the leather trim on the top edge of the door where it tucks in under the rubber trim of the window, make sure it's all flat and fully-under that before you pop the studs back into the door. The studs all pop back in with a biff from the heel or side of your hand- once the panel is on square with the top of the door and the screw holes are lined up, they'll pop in. Just a slight biff. Oh, and don't over-tighten the trim screws, as they can cut the leather.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top