Alternator issues. #4 in 4 months.

[got_no_sol]

I bought my elcipse approximately 3 months ago and have had nothing but issues with the thing, almost like it's a dsm huh?

I believe the owner before me had replaced the alternator within ~ 6 months of selling it to me. About a month after I got the car the voltage regulator went bad and the alternator was hitting as high as 17volts (!!!) as read on my external voltage gauge. Replaced that one quickly, but not before it overcharged the hell out of my battery. About 2 weeks later my freshly replaced alt went bad, but this time it was undercharging, getting down as low as about 9volts. Replaced that one, replaced the battery with a yellow stinger and now I'm getting similar issues. This one has dipped as low as 7 volts.

I am very familiar with electrical systems (I'm a car audio installer by trade) but can think of no reason why I would be at alternator #4 in 4 months.

I've been searching and reading through the forums for a good couple hours and haven't found any helpful threads. Am I just have bad luck with remanned alts from the local parts store, or is there something I'm missing?

 

[rbwtrans]

Check the plug in the back of the alt for melting or spredding of the pins.

 

[got_no_sol]

Will do when I work on the car this weekend.

I also randomly get the 3 lights on the dash (Coolant, brake & battery) even when the alternators are running normally. Well, when I say that, I mean that my voltage doesn't drop at all.

 

[Tim Melton]

Those three lights are what usually tell you not to drive untell you get a new alternator or it will die soon.You need to look at the plug for shorts or melting.Another thing you said you install car sterios for a living do you have a big one in the car cause that could kill alternators too.

 

[olmytsi]

You don't have an 02 dump or an external gate do you? Heat from those things kill alternators.

 

[My1GLaser]

Am I just have bad luck with remanned alts from the local parts store, or is there something I'm missing?

That's quite possible and not an uncommon DSM problem. I worked at Advance Auto a while back and alternators were the number one warranty return. They are made/reman in Mexico and suck ass.

Plus, our regulators suck to begin with and our alts are very susceptible to heat. I switched to a Saturn Alternator with some modifications and it is much better, it has an internal and external fan. I am still having voltage drop issues at WOT and 26 psi, so I am replacing the stator with a 140 amp one and putting in a new HD regulator this weekend.

 

[got_no_sol]

Those three lights are what usually tell you not to drive untell you get a new alternator or it will die soon.You need to look at the plug for shorts or melting.Another thing you said you install car sterios for a living do you have a big one in the car cause that could kill alternators too.

Will look for shorts.

My stereo isn't that big. Only thing I have as far as amps is a 1000rms diamond audio amp, but it's pushing a single 10, and I don't ever crank it that much.

You don't have an 02 dump or an external gate do you? Heat from those things kill alternators.

No I don't. Sorry. Haven't updated my mod list recently. 16G turbo & some bolt ons yes, but nothing crazy.

That's quite possible and not an uncommon DSM problem. I worked at Advance Auto a while back and alternators were the number one warranty return. They are made/reman in Mexico and suck ass.

Plus, our regulators suck to begin with and our alts are very susceptible to heat. I switched to a Saturn Alternator with some modifications and it is much better, it has an internal and external fan. I am still having voltage drop issues at WOT and 26 psi, so I am replacing the stator with a 140 amp one and putting in a new HD regulator this weekend.

Did you grind down the saturn alternator or get the relocation kit?

What are you sourcing parts to upgrade you alternator from?

I assume you're upgrading the internal voltage regulator and not adding an external one?

Sorry for all the questions, but 140amp would be plenty for the stereo plans I have.

 

[My1GLaser]

Yes I ground it down. It only took a couple minutes with an angle grinder.

I am using the HD internal regulator. It supposed to be the heaviest duty internal circuitry they can get me for the GM style OEM alternator.

I sourced the Stator and reg at a local shop that rebuilds alternators and starters. I have had many rebuilt there for my cars/work equipment over the years so I got them both for $50.

They can get a 180 amp one, but didn't stock it so I got the 140.

 

[DSMcamaro]

First, make sure your power steering pump is not leaking.

Second, Make sure all your heat shields around your 02housing and exhaust manifold are in place.

Third, check for lose wires. I went through about 5 alternators in 2 months until I finally found out the my pop-up headlights wore through my wiring harness. It would blow the alternator when the harness moved far enough to ground out. So sometimes the alternator would last 3weeks, other times 3min. PITA to find but now its all good.

 

[got_no_sol]

Update:

Replaced alternator #4 last night. Checked wiring and everything seems fine. No power steering leak.

One thing I didn't think of until last night was that I had an exhaust leak that I fixed last week. One of the 4 turbo manifold bolts had backed itself out about an inch and a quarter, and two of the others were finger tight.

That might have been the problem, but we'll see how #4 goes. Got it in and driving home voltage was dropping as low as 12.8 with the headlights on and fan off. Sigh.

 

[DSM1G90]

Put a VOM across the battery with the car running on idle. Should be 13.8 to 14.2 volts across the battery. Anything lower spells trouble. Don't rely on the dash Voltmeter - not too accurate since it has to go through circuitry to get the reading.

With you saying that you're only doing 12.8v when it running, I'm saying bad battery. ALTS are made to top off batteries, not continually charge them.

Also, if you're going high amps, better think on increasing the wire gauge size with a lot higher wire strands per diameter to handle that added amperage, for you could be choking the ALT out and heating up the wire to have a good car fire.

Find a good shop that remans ALTS, just stay away from AUTOZONE stuff...

 

[got_no_sol]

I appreciate your help, but a couple points -

1) I recently replaced the battery, and that is not the problem. As stated, with the previous alternator, I could turn the car off while on the freeway, and my voltage gauge would go UP.

2) There is practically 0 possibility of causing a car fire by "drawing too much amperage" from the alt. The alternator can only put out a certain amount of power, and even with a large stereo or other high current accessories, there is no way to magically make it create more current. The only way that heating up the wire would be an issue would be if I replaced the alternator with a HO one and didn't upgrade the wire between that and the battery.