[RESOLVED] crazy alternator problem replaced twice

[slim2005]

ok i replaced the alternator twice now. the last one just burned up possibly due to the combination of power steering fluid and constant charging of the dead batttery. so i replaced it again with another alternator from napa since the last was still under warranty and charged the battery. car started and all those warning lights that were on dimly were gone. I was happy so i drove the car home(about 10 minutes) and parked it. Went to take my girl for a ride to show it would run after putting the car back togther from when i got it in december in pieces, and drove a mile heard a popping in the driver side wheel area turned around right away and the ABS light came on. Well i slowed the car down to baby it not knowing what might be wrong and the lights started dimming out just like before but none of the warning lights were on like before, except for the ABS one. The car seemed to drive ok in 1st but in second only missed and sputtered and shot a flame out of the tail pipe. this is a rebuilt motor so it's smoking because of the rings seating and this just made it worse. please any help would be great. thanks alot

 

[luv2rallye]

Read your ABS code out: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-reading-2g-abs-diagnostic-trouble-codes.html

 

[Defiant]

this is a rebuilt motor so it's smoking because of the rings seating

Mm. I doubt it.

 

[Gs Dewd]

Check all your wiring you have something grounded out in the charging circuit. Also check the battery for bad cells or just replace it.

 

[slim2005]

i've read several articles on here about how it'll smoke from the rings seating... but the battery is brand new. so i'm at a loss of what is going on... does this car go into a limp mode like my vw when a code comes on? thanks for input....also the smoking is already leesening even with the 50 miles i have put on it..... any other would help alot

 

[Boomer420s]

Do you have a DVOM? Simple voltage and resistance tests will help locate any wiring or electrical problems.

 

[slim2005]

where would i start testing? anyone

 

[slim2005]

ok charged the battery and i started it yesterday let it run til normal temperature and turned it off. let it sit started it up after about 5 minutes. then i started it today and it was fine. i pulled the battery cable and it ran fine. anyone have any ideas. also the ABS light was off. all i did was wiggle the power and ground on the battery.

 

[bobby180360]

mine did that but it was cause my cap. was drawing all the power away from the charging circuit and finally it killed the battery when i was driving so if theres not enough power for the computer, whats going to tell it to put fuel in and all the other good stuff with no juice? charge battery, hate to say it but have your alt checked just to be safe and try that, then take it to an auto store that can do a system load test and see what they come up with.

 

[slim2005]

what do you mean Cap? and none of the lights are coming on now. drove it around for 15 minutes and now problem.

 

[bobby180360]

my capacitor was creating pairacitic draw, and like you i had my abs light come on. You should take your car to an auto parts store and have them check what voltage is being put out by your charging system, mine had 0 volts until i unhooked my cap. and it was back to normal. Give it a few days and it will be back to its old tricks again, have it checked out most places do it for free, what do you have to lose...

 

[slim2005]

i don't have a capacitor what else could do that?

 

[luv2rallye]

A short. See: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-partial-short-battery-drain.html#post1496998.
Get a multimeter and measure battery voltage first with nothing on, then with headlights on but nothing else, then with engine idling but nothing else, then with both engine idling and headlights on, then with engine at 2500rpm and headlights on, and report back.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Post #11 and #12 are gold.
First we have "pairacitic" draw and then we don't have a capacitor.

Seriously though, thats a bummer you've been frying alts. It might be in your best interest to pick up a test light and maybe other supplies at Radio Shak or somewhere. luv2rallye is a pro at this though,his write up will set you down the right path.

Alternatively, have you checked all your grounds?

 

[bobby180360]

Post #11 and #12 are gold.
First we have "pairacitic" draw and then we don't have a capacitor.

ok should have explained it a lot better... i was using an instance where my cap was causing pairacitic draw, (don't ask me how, took it off got it retested without it and everything was fine).

 

[HiTuned1G]

Check your Alternator fuse. I had the same problems as you did and I went to check the fuse and it was nowhere to be found. Stuck one in and its been perfect ever since.

 

[slim2005]

got a test light... will test everything when i get back from my trip for the government hopefully saturday.... WHERE IS THIS ALTERNATOR FUSE?

 

[luv2rallye]

On a 2g, engine fuse box, 2nd from left, 100 amps.

 

[slim2005]

alright love2rallye used my voltmeter here are the results with the thing hooked up to battery.

Off--11.87
off with headlights--11.27
idle-- 11.74
idle+ headlights--11.29
2500rpm +headlights--11.30

see what you can help me with based from that looks like not enoug juice thought it was supposed to be at least 12.5 or better.
thanks
slim

 

[slim2005]

tested alt. yesterday and it was bad even though it was brand new from napa... waiting on replacement now.. could anything be causing them to not be charging right? it was only charging in the 11's

 

[luv2rallye]

Well if your battery was dead or had an internal short it can pull the alt's voltage down. But 99% of the time it's a bad alt (even a new one).
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/263621-alternator-output-problems.html#post151468330