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Problem Diagnosis Can't figure out the problem? Does the question not fit in one of the other tech forums? New Members can post here.

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Old 05-10-2008, 06:08 PM   #1 (permalink)
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1G-specific Steering wheel shake

My steering wheel shakes. Sometimes it is more violent than others. I have had all wheels rotated and balanced, a 4 wheel alignment, and 1 new tie rod end put on. I have also replaced the front brakes and rotors. Still this persistent shaking. Also I can hear a slight noise while driving down the road. I can only hear it w/ the windows up but at about 60mph it is very noticeable. It is hard to describe but it almost a very fast "woop" "woop" "woop" sound. Any ideas?
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Old 05-10-2008, 06:14 PM   #2 (permalink)
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wheel bearings


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Old 05-10-2008, 06:19 PM   #3 (permalink)
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That would be my first guess
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Old 05-10-2008, 06:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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it could be the wheel bearings but it could also be 1 of your tires, i know it sounds weird but if one of your tires has a slipped belt it would cause a shaking as well as noise. get a jack lift you car and look at you tires(on the tread) if there is a spot where the tread looks deformed that is the culprit. it could have have also been a bulge in the tire but they would have noticed that when they rotated and balanced the tires or at least they should have, but then you would have also been feelin like your car kept riding over a bump(up and down motion)
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Old 05-10-2008, 06:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
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1G-specific

I assume since the shake is in the steering wheel we are definitely talking about front bearings. Has anyone changed them before? Are they just bearings or is it the whole hub? Anyone priced them lately?
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Old 05-11-2008, 04:28 PM   #6 (permalink)
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1st thing is DO NOT assume that it's your wheel bearings. Jack up the car in the front and put it on jack stands. Go to the driver side tire and grab the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock positions and in an up and down motion (like pulling the top of the tire to you and pushing the bottom away) rapidly try to shake the tire. Now try the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. Try to move the tire from side to side as if the wheels were being turned by the steering wheel. Any movement up and down is more than likely your wheel bearings, any movement side to side is usually the tie rod( outer or inner) Have a 2nd person see if they can hear or see anything from behind the wheel moving as you do this.

Also grab the bottom of the tire and try to lift as in simulating hitting a bump. Have the 2nd person see if there is any movement at the top near the strut tower bolts. Look at your tire tread. run your hands across it following the tread and back again. If the tread is "grabby" in one direction more than the other this called a saw tooth edge and usually results from the shocks being faulty. If the tread is worn more on the inside 1/2 of the tire it's an alignment issue. Even if you just had one done, if the tires are shot that could pull the car back out of alignment. More tread on the outsides than in the middle is too much air and more on the inside half than on the outer edges is too little air. Proper air requirements are posted on the door tag located on the door frame on the driver side NOT the listing on the tire.

I'm sure there is ALOT more that I could list here as to what your tires can tell you and how to check other suspension items but that should get you started for the time being.
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Old 05-11-2008, 04:33 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Most likely awheel bearing. Just bring it to a shop andtell them yolu want an estimate on what is causing the problem. Every shop I have worked at and know of will check the problem for free in hopse of you having them do the work.
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Old 05-11-2008, 08:54 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Archametes View Post
1st thing is DO NOT assume that it's your wheel bearings. Jack up the car in the front and put it on jack stands. Go to the driver side tire and grab the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock positions and in an up and down motion (like pulling the top of the tire to you and pushing the bottom away) rapidly try to shake the tire. Now try the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. Try to move the tire from side to side as if the wheels were being turned by the steering wheel. Any movement up and down is more than likely your wheel bearings, any movement side to side is usually the tie rod( outer or inner) Have a 2nd person see if they can hear or see anything from behind the wheel moving as you do this.

Also grab the bottom of the tire and try to lift as in simulating hitting a bump. Have the 2nd person see if there is any movement at the top near the strut tower bolts. Look at your tire tread. run your hands across it following the tread and back again. If the tread is "grabby" in one direction more than the other this called a saw tooth edge and usually results from the shocks being faulty. If the tread is worn more on the inside 1/2 of the tire it's an alignment issue. Even if you just had one done, if the tires are shot that could pull the car back out of alignment. More tread on the outsides than in the middle is too much air and more on the inside half than on the outer edges is too little air. Proper air requirements are posted on the door tag located on the door frame on the driver side NOT the listing on the tire.

I'm sure there is ALOT more that I could list here as to what your tires can tell you and how to check other suspension items but that should get you started for the time being.


before you try to move it side to side make sure the steering wheel is locked or it will turn. then try to move it side to side.

saw tooth edge or cupping if youre more familiar with this term is the same. could be a shock or you can also get this from not rotating your tires but this would cause more of a vibration than a shake.
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Old 05-11-2008, 10:00 PM   #9 (permalink)
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before you try to move it side to side make sure the steering wheel is locked or it will turn. then try to move it side to side.
This is wrong. The steering wheel needs to be unlocked. If the wheel is locked and you move it side to side you are going to feel it hitting the lock and think something has play when it does not. When you move the wheel side to side with the wheel unlocked the whell will either have a clunking feeling which means something has play or it will just turn the whole thing. The wheel will not turn right away if something has play.

Also, to check to see if the bearing is whats making noise do this. Put the car on jack stands since it is awd. Then put one of your hands (weaker arm) on a coil spring. Rotate the wheel with the other hand as if you were driving down the road. If that wheel bearing is making noise you will feel a rumbling in the coil spring. Move on and try the others.
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Old 05-12-2008, 07:04 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Then put one of your hands (weaker arm) on a coil spring. Rotate the wheel with the other hand as if you were driving down the road. If that wheel bearing is making noise you will feel a rumbling in the coil spring. Move on and try the others.
yeah i forgot about that test too
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Old 05-12-2008, 07:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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You covered most of it. Can't always remember to put in everything.
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