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need help after brake job

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EVOL2003

15+ Year Contributor
45
0
Oct 25, 2007
PLEASANT PRARIRE, Wisconsin
ok change out front rotors and pads....drove to work the next day and all was fine. on the way home i started to hear this really bad grinding noise so once home i look at the rotor on the driver side and it is smoking, with a grove in it. it was only groved about 1/4 of the way however. which means that the rotor is wobbling somehow? right? also noticed that the abs gear looking thing is know moving. could this cause the problem? the little abs gear thing is i no way touching the rotor. so whats causing my rotor to move, bend rim, bent axle, warpped rotor which i doubt because its brand new. btw had to beet the crap out of the rotors to get them off, this one in particular kinda split in half, could i have bent the axle
really need help guys everyday the tsi:talon: is down equals more miles on the evo:cry:
 
Just speaking from personal experience I've hit rotors with a 4 pound sledge to get the old ones off, and haven't had an issue with something getting bent. That being said where on the rotor did you hit it? Also something to keep in mind is were you having brake problems before or did you replace the pads and rotors as a preventive measure? Also could you be having an issue with the backing plate? Normally you would hear a grinding sound but I only say that cause you said you wailed on the rotor pretty bad (but I don't know if bending the backing plate will give you a groove can you provide a pic?) Also were the piston on your caliper ok?
 
i hit all over the rotor....where it sits on the hub to the acually rotor....brakes pads had nothing left on the back side of rotor. which is ironicly the side that is having this problem (driver side) piston and caliper seems ok. the bracket that holds the rotor is what hitting it...i can see where its rubbing but it only on 1/4 of the rotor opposite corner from where caliper is bolted on. one would think that if something was bent that the whole rotor would get a groove in it. but thats not the case with me:confused: i had no trouble with the breaks b4 except for vibration in the steering wheel under heavy breaking which after i saw the old pads was to be expected. but even with the rotor rubbing the the pad bracket there was no unusally vibrations. thanks man ne one else?
 
If your rotor is only used 1/4th way...thats because the pads are new. The new pads are pointy and you are supposed to BREAK IN slowly with these new pads and rotors.

the groove only goes about a quarter of the way around....
 
Did you cross torue your lug nut to make sure your rim tightened evenly your rotors or partly held on by you rims. The caliper is in a fixed location as while the rotor spins with your tire so if your rims loose or miss aligned it would account for the wear on only one part of your caliper.Just my 2 cents
 
Did you cross torue your lug nut to make sure your rim tightened evenly your rotors or partly held on by you rims. The caliper is in a fixed location as while the rotor spins with your tire so if your rims loose or miss aligned it would account for the wear on only one part of your caliper.Just my 2 cents

yeah i think ive put the whole thing and off like 4 or 5 times, i gona try again
i think im the quickest to take off the calipers, ROFL ive had enough practice
ill put pic up later today hopefully
thanks for the help guys:thumb:
 
pics up.......
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as you can see this is the back of the rotor.....see the indents

this is the abs gear i was speaking of, or at least i asume thats what it is...notice the gap that shouldnt be there
the little hole to the left of the top lugnut in the pic is where there was a little metel nub sticking out...the nub is what used to keep the abs gear from moving away from the back side of the hub
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top view of abs thingy...notice no little nub i hit it softly with a hammer and it went in but it causes the little gear thing to move back
what do i do....i think it wont groove ne more but if i leave the abs thingy like that i think it might rub on the control arm....new axle?
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IM BEGINNING TO HATE DSM'S...I THINK THIS WAS ALREADY A PROBLEM BEFORE I DID THE BRAKES...WHY DON'T OWNERS TAKE CARE OF THERE CARE WHEN NEEDED
what do i do guys????
 
new, i didnt see the little nub that caused the dent till today....im stupid....it a little dirty ### its been on and off so much i know i need to clean it before i put it on for good
autozone rotor....keep in mind the other side is fine
i wanna say i payed like 30 buck for it.....i paid 77 for the two rotors and the front pads....it the chepest rotors they carry...but again i dont think the rotor is the problem
 
In the bottom pic can you get the gap in the hub to close or is something holding it out
im not sure if it supose to sit flush to the hub, but yeah i can, but if i do the little metel nub comes through the little hole again and sticks out, hitting the back of the rotor.....
 
I'm sorry reread and I see your saying the nub pushes the hub out try spining the hub if I remember right there should be a spot for the nub to fit into hub with out pushing the back out never been good with all the proper names hope you can under stand what I'm saying if not just let me know
 
The new pads are pointy and you are supposed to BREAK IN slowly with these new pads and rotors.

NOT if they are performance pads. If they are performance pads, you are supposed to break them in for a tiny bit to get off anything on them, and then beat on them for a certain amount. IE: Do multiple 60-5 stops (HARD stops) to insure that they are going to be there when you need them at that force and temperature. If they are really strong race pads, do 60-5 stops, let them cool, and then do a few 100-5 stops. I have done this to mine and they work flawlessly. When doing so, just try not to lock up the tires if you don't have ABS. If you do lock up, abandon the stop and retry once back up to speed.

OP: Try looking around a junkyard for hub assemblies that will fit your car. Buy them cheap, compare them to the ones you have, and if anything is needed you can swap the parts or the entire unit. But the situation you have is indeed a strange one. What exactly was the problem with them before the swap?
 
I'm sorry reread and I see your saying the nub pushes the hub out try spining the hub if I remember right there should be a spot for the nub to fit into hub with out pushing the back out never been good with all the proper names hope you can under stand what I'm saying if not just let me know

there are 7 hole in the new rotor i just discoverd the problem i think.....two of the hole are for the little nubs that hold on that abs thingy....the rotor was on wrong.....i sliced my finger last thursday .....the day i was gonna do my brakes so my buddy came over and did most of the work.....shame on me for not looking it over....i did however miss this small detail the last two times i have messed with this dam car....putting back togethe wish me luck.....i let you guys know:coy:

NOT if they are performance pads. If they are performance pads, you are supposed to break them in for a tiny bit to get off anything on them, and then beat on them for a certain amount. IE: Do multiple 60-5 stops (HARD stops) to insure that they are going to be there when you need them at that force and temperature. If they are really strong race pads, do 60-5 stops, let them cool, and then do a few 100-5 stops. I have done this to mine and they work flawlessly. When doing so, just try not to lock up the tires if you don't have ABS. If you do lock up, abandon the stop and retry once back up to speed.

OP: Try looking around a junkyard for hub assemblies that will fit your car. Buy them cheap, compare them to the ones you have, and if anything is needed you can swap the parts or the entire unit. But the situation you have is indeed a strange one. What exactly was the problem with them before the swap?

i think i figured it out......7 hole total in new rotor.....5 for the lugs, and two for the little nubs that hold on the abs gear thingy.......and what wasnt wrong with them is the better question....pads where gone on the inside of each of the front brake....and the rotors where grooved something fierce....i think this was a problem b4 as well. seems like the previous owner did the same thing i did and just never tried to fix it
 
all together.....no grinding, no new grove....old grove is almost all the way gone.....but the little abs gear thingy...is moving around...i can hear it.....can that be replaced by itself of do i need a whole new axle? thanks everyone
cruiser: thumbs up
 
I'm not sure if you need a new axle or not, just so you know DSM are absolutely terrible when trying to pull off the axle I"m replacing mine and only on one side it would NOT come out of the spindle I went at it with a press and still no luck, but maybe its just me. so in addition to getting a new axle shaft I also needed a spindle with a hub in it. let us know if it works out for you.
 
well i gonna run it the way it is till i find out what to do about the abs thing....there is a local guy im my hood that is a dsm wizz, he told me it was ok to drive for now. he said he was gonna look at "caps" which some sort of computer program. i guess its the one the dealership uses, to see if i can buy that part seperate. i think ill run no abs, b4 i try to fix the axle if needed
 
there should be 2 little 10mm head bolts that will screw into that little plate thing and your rotors with have to holes to fit them that is causing the plate to move and shift around. but the grinding and rotors beeing a 1/4 way used already idk
 
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