Car Dies At Idle After Simple Bolt Ons! Help!

[Dear_Ambellina]

Ok so I already posted this question a few days ago and have gotten ZERO responses. So I am hoping that a repost with additional information will give somebody enough information to help me. Seriously, I will paypal money to someone who can help me fix this. Here is the deal:

Ok so I just purchased my second DSM (I previously had a 97 GS-T which I sold a couple years ago), and I just did all the same first bolt on mods as I did on my first 4g63 except this time I am having serious problems. Here is what was added to the car:

Complete hard intercooler piping from throttle body all the way to the turbo
K&N Filtercharger Intake
Hard intake pipe (the full one that connects from the turbo inlet all the way to the MAF
Breather Filter/Catch Can (one of those simple carb filters that that vents and holds the oil in the casing)
Greddy Type RS BOV

Pretty simple stuff I know, so anyway here is what is happening.

When I start the car it will jerkily crank it's way to about 1,000 Rpm's. It will stay there for approximately 3 seconds and then cut off. At first i thought the BOV was set too soft so I screwed it in tighter, it did exactly the same thing. I set the bov to completely hard and completely soft just to make sure it wasn't something to do with that, and on both settings the exact same thing happenend when I tried to start the car. I know boost leaks can be an issue after changing pipes and gaskets and such, but it didn't seem to me that a boost leak would just cut the car off every time after a few seconds. It's almost as if it just stops giving itself gas or something. All clamps have been checked and are very tight.

If this might make a difference for electrical/sensor reasons, the MAF was unplugged for about a week straight as I was doing work and waiting on parts. In addition the two wire plugs underneath the fuse box were also unplugged, as well as the two power wires going from the fuse box wire bundle. These were all also left unplugged for about a week. Everything has been reconnected securely as far as I can tell. UPDATE: I just tried to start the car again afer two days and now it tries to crank but won't catch to start idling at all. Somebody please help! Here are the pictures of what was unplugged in case you don't know what I'm talking about.

Image of Upload 2 - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Image of Upload1 - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

 

[cruisintalonawd]

I bet its a boost leak because that would also cause a vacumm leak. There's something loose or unplugged

 

[tbonitz301]

Check with the simple stuff , boost leak test, fuses, relays,

 

[Dear_Ambellina]

Alright thanks guys, just got back home from a weekend trip and saw I finally had some responses. A couple quick questions. I'm going to go ahead and get the stuff done for a boost test, do you know if there are any areas along the intercooler route that are commonly known for boost leaks. Maybe near the throttle or bov or something? The car was running flawlessly until I changed all the IC/intake piping, so I have to assume it is somewhere along there, I just can't believe after checking coupler connections, that it is any of the areas clamped together on the intercooler, turbo, etc. But I have no problem witht he boost test proving me wrong. Thanks for the help. I'll update after boost test is finished.

 

[95GSXBLUR]

Did you Knock into the coolant temperature sensor and break it or leave it unplugged for any reason? (the two prong one, NOT the single)

My car wouldn't start because the wires broke in the connector. It left the car in open loop and would only crank and never start.

Check this thread for more info:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

 

[crimsondragon]

Check your CAS. Usually if it starts up a bit and then dies, something might be wrong with it. I had initiated a vac leak before on my DSM. Unless it's a huge one, the most your car should do is idle at like 50 rpms. Check your boost gauge on what it's reading when it starts up. You do have a boost gauge right?

 

[RedTalon95]

Did you Knock into the coolant temperature sensor and break it or leave it unplugged for any reason? (the two prong one, NOT the single)

My car wouldn't start because the wires broke in the connector. It left the car in open loop and would only crank and never start.

Check this thread for more info:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

+1, I second this.

I had a similar problem and it was due to the coolant temperature sensor not being connected. It's really easy to check; the plug is right under the thermostat housing. It's best to eliminate the easy/obvious first.

 

[Dear_Ambellina]

UPDATE! Ok sorry it took so long for me to respond but the damn digital camera cord went MIA until now and I wanted to post a picture of my discovery. After snooping around it turns out that something was unplugged. (I really don't know how I missed it) I have attached the photo of what it was so that it can be verified as to the Coolant Temperature Sensor or something else. Now the car does start and idles around 1000 RPM or just under, which I am assuming is about right? Only thing now is the Check Engine Light remains on. Is something still wrong or is that just fallout from trying to start the car with something unplugged? Either way what do i need to do to get it turned off?

On another note - this is probably a totally different issue - I cannot seem to get my new RS to stop fluttering when i drive and build pressure and shift no matter how hard or soft I set it. I have heard the RS kind of has that sound, but I can't imagine this is correct. I'm used to the type S single PSHHH. Any ideas?? Could the BOV be broken? Anyway here is the link to what was unplugged and thanks for the help guys!!!
Image of Unplugged - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

 

[crimsondragon]

UPDATE! Ok sorry it took so long for me to respond but the damn digital camera cord went MIA until now and I wanted to post a picture of my discovery. After snooping around it turns out that something was unplugged. (I really don't know how I missed it) I have attached the photo of what it was so that it can be verified as to the Coolant Temperature Sensor or something else. Now the car does start and idles around 1000 RPM or just under, which I am assuming is about right? Only thing now is the Check Engine Light remains on. Is something still wrong or is that just fallout from trying to start the car with something unplugged? Either way what do i need to do to get it turned off?

On another note - this is probably a totally different issue - I cannot seem to get my new RS to stop fluttering when i drive and build pressure and shift no matter how hard or soft I set it. I have heard the RS kind of has that sound, but I can't imagine this is correct. I'm used to the type S single PSHHH. Any ideas?? Could the BOV be broken? Anyway here is the link to what was unplugged and thanks for the help guys!!!
Image of Unplugged - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

That would be your CAS as I have stated is the most likely possibility of your problems. He shoots, he scores!

As for the CEL, get it checked out first. If it's faulty CPS, either have the Autozone dude clear it or unplug your battery for 1 min. If you have antitheft, it be handy to have that card that has the activation code for your radio cause you will need it. If the CEL pops up again, have it checked out and if it's the same as before, then your CAS might be damaged for whatever reason. Replace it or the dying at startup problems will pop up again. Handy replacements can be found on ebay for cheap.

 

[Dear_Ambellina]

That would be your CAS as I have stated is the most likely possibility of your problems. He shoots, he scores!

As for the CEL, get it checked out first. If it's faulty CPS, either have the Autozone dude clear it or unplug your battery for 1 min. If you have antitheft, it be handy to have that card that has the activation code for your radio cause you will need it. If the CEL pops up again, have it checked out and if it's the same as before, then your CAS might be damaged for whatever reason. Replace it or the dying at startup problems will pop up again. Handy replacements can be found on ebay for cheap.

Awesome. Thanks for all the help. Any suggestions on the BOV issue? I've tried to search the forums but can't seem to find anything. I hear the top screw leaks a little and should be teflon taped... but would that cause a flutter at any setting??? Let me know if you have any ideas. Thanks!

 

[crimsondragon]

A flutter is caused by compressor surge. What BOV you running? Loosen the setting and allow more air to be released at a lower psi setting.

 

[Dear_Ambellina]

It's a brand new Greddy Type RS. I have tried driving it at both the hardest and softest settings and seem to get exactly the same sound....