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1G Oil Leak Front of engine

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liquid courage

Probationary Member
3
0
Sep 12, 2007
Las Vegas, Nevada
Ok guys, long time lurker first time poster. I just bought a 1991 TSI AWD. There is a bad oil leak coming from the front of the motor. I have looked at several pictures and cannot see where it could be coming from. I have removed the timing belt cover and am trying to see where it is even possible to leak from.

What oil seals are behind the timing belt?
I thought it was coming from behind the tensioner pulley, but there does not seam to be a seal behind it. It does not appear to be leaking from the valve cover, but I am going to replace it anyway. Just looking for ideas. I added die to the oil trying to see the leak, but it was just all over everything. I cleaned up the area and it only appears to leak under boost. I cannot get it to leak in my garage while idling. I may put the motor mount back on and jump out in the street to hit boost real quick, then bring it back in the garage.

Thanks guys here is the best picture I found
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No compression test yet. I have been reading all over the net and it could be possible. What should the numbers be? I am going to run it when I get home and see what I can find.
 
Should be in the mid 160's for compression numbers. There is a lot of places the oil could be coming from. Common culprits include the front main seal, camshaft seals, valvecover gasket, and a bolt hole in the balance shaft belt area.
 
Actually compression numbers will vary from tester to tester. As long as all the numbers are equal or withing 10psi (I think) your fine. My tester reads 140psi across on my engine but my friends reads 160psi on the same engine. It just depends on who makes the tester.

The oil leak could really be coming from anywhere. DSM's are good for leaking oil out of everywhere. Valve covers, front case, oil filter housing, cam seals, are all good starting points. Check the o-ring on the dipstick tube and the dipstick itself. DSM's also like to shoot out dipsticks under boost and spray oil everywhere. Has anybody modded the car before you? Does it still have the balance shafts? If not then check the hole where the b-shaft tensioner bolt should be.
 
Actually compression numbers will vary from tester to tester. As long as all the numbers are equal or withing 10psi (I think) your fine. My tester reads 140psi across on my engine but my friends reads 160psi on the same engine. It just depends on who makes the tester.

Not true. A quality tool will read the actual cylinder pressure within a certain tolerance of error. If you are getting 140 and your friend is getting 160 then one of you is using a shoddy tool. I would suggest having your tester checked for accuracy and repeatability before continuing use.

Since the leak occurs during boost or engine load, I would be more apt to think the problem is due to an incorrectly torqued head or a bad head gasket.
 
Not true. A quality tool will read the actual cylinder pressure within a certain tolerance of error. If you are getting 140 and your friend is getting 160 then one of you is using a shoddy tool. I would suggest having your tester checked for accuracy and repeatability before continuing use.


I don't think I've ever gotten the same reading from any tester I've ever used? I use a Snap-on one and my friends is an Autozone one so I would think mine would be the better one the two. They have always been consistent with the reading other than the variations in psi between them. I always just thought it was dependent on who made the tool. Now I'm going to have to find the snap-on man to make sure mine is accurate LOL!
 
I think it is from the oil filter housing and being blown back. The car was not modded before. I took the blown stock turbo off and changed it out expecting to get into upgrades. I cleaned everything up real well and could not see any oil coming from any where after my short burst. I am in the process of putting it back together. The balance shaft is still in there. It is coming from higher than the front main seal, and lower than the cam seals. I am think it maybe the head in the end. I will sell the car with an oil leak before I replace the head gasket.

I will let you guys know.
 
You would rather sell the entire car than replace the head gasket?

A head gasket takes about two hours with air tools and know-how.

If you want to dump it that bad, you let me know first and foremost.



As far as the compression tester, I would trust the Snap-On before the Autozone. BUT even Snap-On can make mistakes and the tester could be out of calibration.
 
Meh, 2 hours would be pushing the headgasket job. I suppose with air tools it could make a difference, but I honestly don't know if it would be that much. I can finish the job in 4-6 hours assuming 'mild damage' (simple hg swap, no blown hg), and I use regular hand tools all the way around. Really if you'd rather sell the car than fix a headgasket, I'll be happier knowing it might go to someone who appreciates the results of putting a little elbow grease into repairs.
And about the compression tool, I'm with TwoLiterLaser - a good quality tool will give you an accurate reading, no matter what brand. Compression shouldn't differ by more than either 15 psi or 15% (I don't remember which) between any the cylinder in question and the highest cylinder or be lower than 124 psi (if I remember correctly). If it does, it needs servicing.
To the OP, you can check the torque on your headbolts if, after your compression test, the numbers seem low. If you find that any are loose, try retorquing them and perform the compression test again. It may not change anything, but at least you tried it; plus it is both easy and free. Then, ultimately, it is up to you if you'd like to sell it or not - do what you want.
 
I Have the same problem with my 90 eagle talon tsi awd turbo it appears to be a front camshaft seal i am currently tearing into it and looking at it. If you are mechanically minded im sure you could do it on your own with the right tools, or you could have a shop do it for you. The seals themselves are cheap, and while you at it replace all the belts and seals that you have access to while doing this procedure, However this procedure is quite time consuming especially if inexperienced. Aside from that i really dont know what else the oil leak would be from. Wish you the best of luck on it, O and this problem should be fixed as soon as possible because it damages your timing belt faster, and i dont need to tell you what happens when the timing belt comes off.
 
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