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ehh, is it still my pedal assembly?

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HaveSomeJoe

15+ Year Contributor
66
0
Jun 3, 2007
Portland, Maine
I really would like to drive my new car, like before summer is over...

I just replaced the slave cylinder because it was bad. I bled the system very well. There are no leaks in the master cylinder so I haven't replaced it yet.

I had to remove the assembly twice, once to tighten a nut plus weld it, twice because the weld broke.

The pedal, all the way until hooking up the master cylinder rod onto the C-bracket, would come all the way back like it should.

Once hooked up, it was an inch lower than the brake pedal. I can't get it into any gear at all still because the clutch isn't disengaging enough, I assume because I don't have full travel of my pedal. I can back the cruise control switch out and yank on the pedal and it will move back to where its supposed to be, but as soon as I push it down to the floor, it comes back to an inch lower than the brake pedal. I'm thinking my pedal is just bent so I guess I need to buy a brand new one.

ehh.
 
The adjustment screw is set all the way out, thats the only way I got disengagement all the way to the floor, and now with the new slave and rewelded assembly, it wont disengage at all with the adjustment all the way out.

the car has 150000 miles on it with the stock clutch. Can someone give me the parts numbers for everything I need for the clutch pedal assembly? I tried using CAPS but it says each little nut is a different part number.
 
ok well here is a little update, I noticed that either when pushing the pedal down at its lower than normal sitting position as well as pushing the pedal down after I pull it back the one or so inch, i get the exact same amount of penetration from the master cyl. rod.

Also, when I pull the pedal back the one inch, the visible part of the black bushing is rotating, but the spring or the master cyl rod doesnt come back or anything like that with the pulling back. That bushing isnt supposed to move right? Any ideas are much appreciated

And another thing, I think, I THINK, when I'm pushing the pedal down, it starts out with good penetration into the master cyl, but then slows down on insertion even though my pressure is at the same speed on the pedal, almost likes its slipping.

Also, If I buy that clutch pedal assembly from diamondstarmotorsport.com, can I just grind off my welds to get the shaft out? I do I need to buy the ENTIRE assembly including the brake pedal?
 
Okkk, heres an other update, hopefully one of the last. I kept pushing in the pedal and then pulling it all the way back over and over again and finally something snapped, most likely the arm of the pedal,

now the master cylinder rod doesnt move until the pedal is halfway down so I need to take the assembly out and grind off the weld so I can take out the pedal and arm and buy the new one from diamondstarmotorsport.com. I'm pretty sure this will fix my problem because with that moving bushing and the arm being in its condition i wasn't getting full penetration into the master cylinder.

I'll update this once I get the money to order the part and then put it in.

Cross your fingers for me! :thumb:
 
yea but if your clutch is no good, all the tampering pulling punching and cussing isnt going to fix the issue. You will still have the same issues. With the issues your having the problem would be easy to fix by re adjusting your pedal. and if all your pedal work isnt paying off, then its time to look at the next solution aka the clutch

Also is there anyway you can take us some pics of what your talking about, some of the stuff said is a lil jumpy and hard to follow.

Not being a dick but take a look at the diagrams here so you can use the right terminology to help us undertstand you better.
 

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yea but if your clutch is no good, all the tampering pulling punching and cussing isnt going to fix the issue. You will still have the same issues. With the issues your having the problem would be easy to fix by re adjusting your pedal. and if all your pedal work isnt paying off, then its time to look at the next solution aka the clutch

Also is there anyway you can take us some pics of what your talking about, some of the stuff said is a lil jumpy and hard to follow.

Not being a dick but take a look at the diagrams here so you can use the right terminology to help us undertstand you better.

I'm sorry but you are of no help to me, if you haven't had this problem before (Only on first gen's!!) than I doubt you know what I'm talking about, Thanks for your advice regardless.

Oldman: I'm pretty sure im welding the right things, the threaded portion to nut, nut to the lever that the master cyl's c-bracket attaches to. The first weld broke and then I assume the arm was so old and worn that it snapped right off. When I get my new assembly, I dont even want to weld it cause I could risk it messing up, I've read a few posts where the people say there new welded assemblys still have play because of some other problem but I don't think of got any other problems.

Do you have another recommended welding procedure? I've heard of people grinding off the threads or something like that
 
Before you weld the retaining nut to the shaft, was it snapped back to the correct position? Sounds like maybe you welded it at the worn out position because you said it was not leveled with the brake pedal after welding, it should.

As for the new pedal assembly, you will still want to weld it before installation or else you will have to deal with this again in the future.
 
Yea I had it welded with the pedal pulled all the way as far as it can go, I even took out the cruise control switch so It could go that much further back, the inch of play i had came from the weld instantly breaking with a few pushes I guess. Trust me I did plenty of research before diagnosing and welding the assembly so I made sure I did it right, (except for the weak first weld) I made sure the bushing didnt melt and everything.

We just have to wait until I can order the new assembly and put it in.
 
Update!

Ok, well I ended up grinding off my old weld as well as the threaded portion of the shaft and welding the shaft straight onto the lever. I know have full pedal/ master cyl throw. Woo!
I had to adjust the master cyl rod out so theres probably 2 or 3 threads of adjustment left so that should be fine, It shifts like buttah. I now need to get it registered/inspected/insured, finally, im a REAL DSMer. as well as a pro at clutch pedal assembly work. ;):thumb:

:talon:
 
haha, I know i know, well I greatly appreciate the help. I took if for a quick drive and woo it pulls pretty good for only having a ported 2g manifold. Woo!
 
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