high coolant temps and fmic

[Spades]

well summer is here and i cant help but notice my water temps hovering around 217 degrees during my 1/2 hour drive home from work everyday, i have an ETS fmic and meth injection, im considering going with a Dejon SMIC along with my meth injection in hopes of achieving cooler water temps, would the smic be enough for an Evo3 @ 19psi? will heatsoak be an issue running the 1/4 mile?

 

[playitlouddsm]

Make sure you fab up a shroud from the fmic to the radiator so all that air flowing through fmic also makes it through the radiator. You could also look into replacing your thermostat with a 170 degree one ( worked great for me).

 

[Spades]

a cooler thermostat wont help, it will only delay the time it takes to get to its normal operating temps.

 

[JaxTalonTSi]

I am haveing a similar issue with my car. I am only running one fan, fairly large FMIC, 60/40 water coolant mix, 180 degree thermostat, stock radiator, and restrictive 95 front bumper. Plan on installing hacked 97-99 bumper, adding another slimfan, which will most likely help alot. If performance is somthing you really want, I would not go back to a sidemount, just fix your issue of not getting enough airflow over the radiator.

 

[redeclipse7782]

Which fans are you guys running? stock or aftermarket? Is this happening on the highway or city driving? Your thermostat could be broken, you might need a new radiator cap, you might have air in the system, you might be low on coolant, you might need a new water pump.

 

[TSG59_Steve]

I'm hittin' 210* with one fan and front mount. But I've got a hacked 2gb bumper.

 

[Spades]

Which fans are you guys running? stock or aftermarket? Is this happening on the highway or city driving? Your thermostat could be broken, you might need a new radiator cap, you might have air in the system, you might be low on coolant, you might need a new water pump.

I should have mentioned that this is with my AC running, highway driving its at 217 degrees, outside temp is 95 degrees, stock fan and radiator, new 170 degree thermostat, coolant is full, no air in system, water pump is 1 year old

 

[flyinghighlm]

I started using water wetter and it actually worked for my 1G, it is hot as heck here in SC and very humid. What about your radiator, is it the stock one? I know it might be working still but it HAS to be somewhat clogged or at least not nearly as efficient due to its age. I actually went through EBAY, picked up a new radiator as well and I have had no issues at all. I can not remeber my temps but i know they are down in the 190's right now.

As far as the SMIC goes, I know dejon makes a Super SMIC not Supra Smic, that is made to take 400hp. Here is the link, http://dsm.dejonpowerhouse.com/

 

[Talesin]

Believe someone made a small (2-3") down-angled flange to catch some of the air that would normally pass under the bottom of the bumper and car, and pull it up behind their FMIC for additional radiator airflow. Yes, a FMIC will reduce the amount of air that gets to the radiator (much less cool air, even off-boost), and running the A/C (with the condenser right in front of the radiator) will only make the problem worse. Ducting could help a good bit, as could an upgraded radiator if you're still on the stock unit, or a no-name aftermarket... those usually reserve half the radiator for tranny fluid cooling purposes on auto vehicles, and the extra mass is wasted in a manual.

Personally I wouldn't trust a SMIC to hold off heatsoak long enough to have any real fun.

 

[v2ner]

What you could do:

run straight h2o (risk of rust in future)
keep fan on
weld bar to duct air from undercar to radiator
remove weatherstripping just under wiper blades
flush radiator

You think 19 psi is bad, try 27psi.

 

[JaxTalonTSi]

What you could do:

run straight h2o (risk of rust in future)
keep fan on
weld bar to duct air from undercar to radiator
remove weatherstripping just under wiper blades
flush radiator

You think 19 psi is bad, try 27psi.

Running straight water is bad, water boils over quicker than coolant. I usualy run a 60/40 mix in the summer, and 50/50 in the winter.

Factory fans are usualy superior to most slimfans simply because the factory fan moves much more air. What sucks about the factory fans is obviously their size, and fitment issues with intercooler plumbing, external wastegates, ect. I would sooner run a slightly hacked up factory fan than an aftermarket unit, unless space is seriously limited.

 

[redeclipse7782]

This cured my coolant problems, when I couldn't fit the stock fan.
http://www.slowboyracing.com/estore/product.php?productid=1540&cat=174&page=1

 

[LaN-]

If you have the proper fans, i'd look into a new radiator. You've got to remember how old that thing is.

My buddy that has a 1g has a huge FMIC, oil cooler and A/C condenser is having no cooling issues what so ever. He also has no ducting.

I have basically the same setup and i'm running 220 all the time.

He runs 100% coolant if that helps any.

I ordered a Koyo radiator on ebay and it should help a lot.

 

[olmytsi]

You definitely don't need a smic. I have a huge fmic, one fan and my car runs really cool. However, i have no a/c condensor and a 160 degree thermostat.

 

[XSNRGGST]

I run really high coolant temps. According to my Autometer water temp gauge, sometimes I hit temps as high as 230 in stop and go traffic. They usually average 190-210 though. Here in Tucson, temps have been averaging 100+ and I drive during peak hours. I have been meaning to check these temps against my pocket logger, but haven't gotten around to it.
The other night my wife and I were driving around and stopped at a fast food drive through. After sitting there a while, temps started creaping up and eventually hit 230 again. Outside night temps were still in the high 80's.

The scary part is I am running these temps after just recently installing my Fluidyne radiator, and dual Spal 11" slim fans and NO FMIC. I need to get some Water Wetter and to make sure my engine fan is wired correctly. AC fan works fine, but my AC needs a recharge, so we don't use it.

 

[LaN-]

I run really high coolant temps. According to my Autometer water temp gauge, sometimes I hit temps as high as 230 in stop and go traffic. They usually average 190-210 though. Here in Tucson, temps have been averaging 100+ and I drive during peak hours. I have been meaning to check these temps against my pocket logger, but haven't gotten around to it.
The other night my wife and I were driving around and stopped at a fast food drive through. After sitting there a while, temps started creaping up and eventually hit 230 again. Outside night temps were still in the high 80's.

The scary part is I am running these temps after just recently installing my Fluidyne radiator, and dual Spal 11" slim fans and NO FMIC. I need to get some Water Wetter and to make sure my engine fan is wired correctly. AC fan works fine, but my AC needs a recharge, so we don't use it.

What coolant do you run?

 

[XSNRGGST]

It is a combination of PEAK and Zerex. I am running 60/40 water to coolant or close. I just recently changed out my radiator to the Fluidyne, and I only had ~2 jugs of coolant. I had asked my mechanic friend if it would be ok to mix the two and he said it would be no problem. Today, at peak heat, the car didn't get over 205. It maybe hit 200 a little bit, but stayed closer to 190-195. I didn't have to stop much though on my 15 minute drive home.

 

[Spades]

OK for those claiming to have cooler running temps, we may have similar mods but are we getting a fair comparison here? The weather around here is 95+ degrees and the A/C on just adds to the problem.

I was going to iron man it yesterday and drive home with the AC off to get an equal comparison with some of you, but i just cant bare climbing in my car after its been sitting in the sun all day

 

[Talesin]

It's about the same around here, and I have no (working) A/C. Just 2x60. Suck it up. :b And of course open both doors and let some of that heat out beforehand.