some problems after just replaced head and timing belt

[foreverinvayne]

Okay... so I had just replaced the head, the timing belt, balance shaft belt and all pulleys due to the balance shaft belt shredding and causing my timing belt to jump timing. Well, I get it running and it ran fine for a full day, then the next morning I go to start it and it does not start at all and just makes a weird loud noise yet still cranks over, just doesn't start. I pull off my upper timing cover and I see the belt VERY loose and just flopping over the intake cam gear.

Is it probable that the loud noise I heard was just the belf flopping around and hitting things or would that possibly be the pistons hitting valves? Because when i bent the valves before, it made NO noise whatsoever. Also, last time i jumped timing, only the intake valves had been bent, all of them, but none of the exhaust valves had been touched whatsoever. is that a common thing as well? I guess that would just mean that the intake cam had just gone too far out of alignment... Also, a starter is strong enough to turn the engine over and bend valves, right?

I'm just so angry at myself for not replacing the auto tensioner... it seemed fine... and when I was going about this, I bought the whole timing belt component kit from Advance Auto for my car, so i assumed that was everything i needed when i did the job.. but no, i guess not. Hindsight is 20/20... now im out hundreds of dollars and a lot of time and effort.

 

[anubis]

ugh...

without a description of the kind of noise you heard (other than it was loud) it's hard to make a judgement on what it really was. it could have been the tensioner arm flopping around, it could have been your valves "high-fiving" your pistons, or it could have been something else.

it's interesting that you only bent your intake valves. i also had a B/S belt failure which caused my timing to jump. it slightly bent my exhaust valves, but it really did a number on the intake side - modern art style.

i would say that a starter is strong enough to bend valves - the stems are not very beefy. it doesn't take a whole lot of force to bend them, but if you're smacking internals, the effects add up. the more they come in contact the worse it gets.

don't freak out yet. maybe you're one of those lucky s.o.b.'s who can get away with things. before you go through all the trouble, pull your valve cover and inspect the valve train for irregularities - like depressed lifters or rollers out of place. if everything checks out ok, replace your tensioner (i have a good one laying around, if you're interested send me a PM) and reset your timing belt. once that's back together, do a compression check. if you bent valves, you won't have good compression. if your compression is ok - you should be fine to drive it. if your compression is bad, it's definately time to pull the head and buy a case of beer - you're going to be a while.

good luck. i've been there man. a lot of us have been in the same situation. don't get too down on yourself. stuff breaks, you replace it, you get back on the road/track.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

It's common that the TB will be loose between cam gears after the engine is shut off. So don't freak out just yet because of that.

Follow the steps that anubis laid out for you..........

before you go through all the trouble, pull your valve cover and inspect the valve train for irregularities - like depressed lifters or rollers out of place. if everything checks out ok, replace your tensioner (i have a good one laying around, if you're interested send me a PM) and reset your timing belt. once that's back together, do a compression check. if you bent valves, you won't have good compression. if your compression is ok - you should be fine to drive it. if your compression is bad, it's definately time to pull the head and buy a case of beer - you're going to be a while.

And yes, the starter is strong enough to bend valves.

And even though you know now...........the MINIMUM on a timing belt job is to replace the TB, BB (if you still have it), and the auto tensioner. Even if everything checks out OK, I would still recommend going back in and replacing the auto tensioner. So no matter what, look at buying that case of beer.

 

[anubis]

And even though you know now...........the MINIMUM on a timing belt job is to replace the TB, BB (if you still have it), and the auto tensioner. Even if everything checks out OK, I would still recommend going back in and replacing the auto tensioner.

if i didn't make that clear, i intended to.

So no matter what, look at buying that case of beer.

that is of course, if you're of age

 

[FORMONTOYA]

if i didn't make that clear, i intended to.

Sometimes repeating things drives the point home.

 

[foreverinvayne]

thanks guys. and yea, maybe i got extremely lucky . my pistons already had divots in the intake side from the last encounter... so maybe it gave me that extra few hundredths of an inch of clearance . Sorry I was not more specific in the noise. I couldn't really narrow it down, but it did not sound like a metal on metal slapping. I don't know for sure tho. It coulda been the belt slappin around, it coulda been the tensioner pulley assembly movin around, who knows?

I mean I didn't run into any problems when doing the job. I'm a UTI graduate, so doing this wasn't like a tremendous ordeal or anything for me. Granted, it was my first timing belt and head replacement. It's just that I didn't want to spend another 80-100 bucks on something when I was already broke and it looked decent. I needed it done, ya know? But I guess when it comes to a dsm, u better replace everything that COULD go wrong even if it means throwing ## credit card around a lil more . I appreciate it guys. I'll be pickin up another auto tensioner, timin it back up and checkin compression asap. I'll stop by and tell everyone the news, good or bad.

oh... and yea, im of age