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Am I running lean? (Sparkplug pictures)

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Fitz7099

15+ Year Contributor
59
1
Jul 23, 2006
Cincinnati, Ohio
I swapped out my plugs today after someone suggested it might be a fix to my problem. When I am past 5k at WOT the engine just dies.

But my question is, am I running lean because my electrodes are covered in white?

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Your first two threads are showing me you may be boost leak rich at the onset of boost, but looking at the prongs, your timing is a bit high. I referenced your profile and noticed you're on stock injectors and a stock pump. I'd try a fresh set of BPR6ES gapped to .028. Run a pull, shut it down as soon as you can and pull them again for a quick reference and post more pics for another read.

Keep in mind that even if you're running, say 14 psi on stock fuel and you have a boost leak, you'll drive injector duty cycle past safe limits and outstrip the capacity of the injectors and pump to supply adequate fuel. I can see you're knocking from the flecks on the prongs and would strongly advise you to boost leak test it, hook up a logger and at least turn down the boost until you can add a larger pump or injectors. But yes, to answer your question, you're definitely lean and adjustments need to be made. I'll best he's falling on her face from trashed plugs that are misfiring or from the ECU pulling timing from all of the knock.

Just for reference, how many psi are you running?

Let us know,

Andy
 
That is text book lean. If you're on that 14b and don't have any tuning then that's probably the reason why.
 
Hello Dentonation!!!!! Those little specs on the plugs are usually a good indicator of dentonation or preignition. What boost are you running? I see, as meantioned above, that you still have the stock fuel system. I would be willing to bet you are probably pushing its limits. Those plugs definately look alittle white especially 2nd from the left.

I would first recommend a logger to see what you injector duty cycle % are. The logger will also tell you if you are getting any knock and also what your O2 readings are.

If you are getting knock the computer will pull timing and your car will not perform. If you are "hitting a brick wall" at 5000rpm then you might have a case of fuel cut. You can do a search to find out how to remedy that.

Hope this helps. I would definately turn down the boost alittle until you get a logger and get some more info on your engines vitals.
 
Sorry for the late reply guys, I was at Ohio University last night. Now on to the important stuff..

I am running 14-15psi boost. Also, I have recently installed a 190lph fuel pump (goes to update profile). I am still on stock injectors.

I would run a log, but I have no idea how to do it. Could anyone poing me to a general/how to log thread? I looked around but couldn't find much that explained what to do.

Also, I'm embarrased to ask this question. I have a Joe P MBC (http://www.joepmbc.com/) and is it turned clockwise (screwed in) to decrease boost, and counterclockwise to incrase boost (screwed out)?
 
casperfast said:
i disagree. one cylinder looks a little scorched. depending on your heat range that could affect it. however, those plugs look healthy and normally worn

Do you not see the pieces of piston coating the ground electodes of the plug? They are far from normal.
 
The boost holds strong at 14ish PSI from 3000 to 5000ish, but after 5000 it begins to creep up, then bam - detination hits and thats where I think my injectors are maxed out. I'll do a boost leak test tonight as well as turn the boost down.

What do you recommend for data logging? DSMLink? OBDII? Tunerstein? etc...

Thanks
 
I'm just wondering, what is she creeping to above 5000? While the injectors are being pushed, you can't ignore that there's likely insufficient volume to the rail from running the stock pump. If you plan on sticking with a 14B/16G setup I see a re-wired 190 pump as an immediate necessity.

I can't help you on the logging part since I don't run a logger (I reference knock through my chip instead) but I'm sure someone will chime in with some helpful info but you can browse this site in the meantime:

http://www.dsmloggers.com/2gkit.html
 
Not to hijack this thread from fizt7099, but I've got an identical setup on a 95 GSX as him, minus the exhaust and plus an EGT gauge. I don't have pics of my plugs but I was running the BPR6EIX. I just took them out, but they were only a light whitish/gray color and without all the built up crap on them like fizt7099's. I just installed the EVO8 fuel pump, obviously similar to the walbro 190, but did not rewire it and changed the fuel filter. I also removed the calibrated obstruction in my MAF. I did some logging and my timing curve is not the same as it was before the fuel pump install. It flattens out around 4.5k-4.8k and doesn't go as high as before (I'd hit 20.5 degrees before this with the stock pump, EGT's hit about 1500 F degrees). I installed BPR7ES yesterday and am getting the same results on my timing curve with my O2 voltage @ .96, EGT's @ 1550 F. What needs to be checked or changed? Things on my list: Boost leak test, remove fuel pressure regulator soleniod (run manifold line straight to regulator), reinstall obstruction in MAF, maybe rewire fuel pump(?). Anything else? I've got some evo8 560cc sitting on the shelf, but they are not ready to go in yet (no safc2), but would those help? Hopefully this helps fitz too.
 
Solved my own problem, I believe. I did a little research on 2g hacked MAF, MAS, whatever you want to call them. The consensus is, DON'T HACK A 2G MAF! Stupid me, thought I could lean it out. So, I screwed it back in, to near where it was before. I did some runs and the timing curve came back to normal. I still have a boost leak with air either leaking by my piston rings or valve stem seals. Air is coming out my oil cap and vent breather. I'm still running the BPR7ES plugs, though. Think I can go back to the 6EIX's?
 
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