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My car is being a tease

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destik1

15+ Year Contributor
33
0
Jul 30, 2005
Centennial, Colorado
I have 95 Gst, and I went to go and start my car this morning and it started to turn over, but instead just went wah wah wah and died. I tried starting it up again, and this time pressed down on the accelerator and got it started...until I took my foot back off the accelerator, and it died again as if I had let the clutch out when it was still in gear. I checked my i/c piping-no leaks, tightened everything just to make sure. I pulled my plugs, and they were a little black, so I cleaned them off and put them back in. I checked all my fuses-they were all good, battery is keeping charge at 14-14.5 v..connections are not corroded..also double checked my mass air flow connections, and they were all good. Just need more help troubleshooting the issue. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. If you need anymore information, please let me know.
 
Aren't the isc and iac the same thing? not fouled, but not clean. I can probably take a picture tomorrow if that would help..I don't have anything to see if the car is throwin codes. all I have are greddy profec b-spec boost controller apex-i safc, and blitz turbo timer. is there any way to test to see if my isc/iac is working improperly?
 
destik1 said:
Aren't the isc and iac the same thing? not fouled, but not clean. I can probably take a picture tomorrow if that would help..I don't have anything to see if the car is throwin codes. all I have are greddy profec b-spec boost controller apex-i safc, and blitz turbo timer. is there any way to test to see if my isc/iac is working improperly?

If the "Check Engine light" is on, it's throwing a code. You just need to find out what that code is. AutoZone does it for free.

Since the gas pedal does nothing when cranking the the car over (Should be controlled by the PCM and injectors), about the only that happens is the butterfly opens, then maybe it's caked up with carbon. Might not hurt to take of the TB and clean it up. Especially since your plugs were dirty.

I think the ISC comes into play for idle surge, but I'm not sure if it has anything to do as to whether it runs. I think it's just there to boost the idle when you have the AC on etc... Your describing that the car isn't running at all....
 
Check engine light is not on, so my guess is that it isn't throwing codes, and the biggest problem is I can't drive the car to autozone to have em' checked. What do I have to do to clean the throttle body? If the ISC was malfunctioning would it possible that it could be what is killing my idle, because it is not stablizing the idle?
 
So does your car start now at all? You should check your spark while cranking it over. Did you check to make sure your plug gap wasn't all out of wack before you re-installed them?
 
How do I check my spark while cranking the engine over? I checked all my i/c piping again, and decided to adjust my throttle cable to stabalize my idle so it wouldn't sputter and die when I start it up. The check engine light wasn't previously on, but it went on this last time after I rechecked the spark plugs, i/c piping, and adjusted the throttle cable. I checked the gap everytime I took them out, and that was fine...is it possible that my crank may have taken out my crank angle sensor? Thanks for the help so far, please keep the suggestions coming, this is freaking me out!! I don't want to be another crank walk victim:cry:
 
c'mon, I know some of you proven dsm gurus can help me troubleshoot this problem? I can't have the only dsm this has ever happened to!!! please help me...walking everywhere really sucks!!!
 
turns out I have crank walk:cry: the good news is a 2.4 4g64 7 bolt shortblock is going to be droped in within the next few weeks. Thanks for your help, I think I am going to appreciate the newly found low end torque!:thumb:
 
ok so you have a hard start problem it is time to hit the basics. An engine needs three things to work fuel air and spark. air is almost always there unless you snapped a belt or low compresion etc. here are the basic steps to diagnosing a hard start or no start condition.
1.spark- no spark or weak spark is a high determining factor. Buy borrow or make a spark tester. to make one take a rubber handled screw driver (short) and insert it into a plugwire. lay it in a fasion so the metal part of the screw driver is close to but not touching a ground. (read metal part of the car) HAve a friend crank the car over but DO NOT TOUCH THE SCREW DRIVER WHILE CRANKING. REPEAT DO NOT TOUCH! look and seeif there is a spark or no spark at all. Weak spark is an indicator of a bad coil pack in most cases.
if you have spark move on to the next step.

2. Fuel if you have spark fuel is next. Even if there is a "fuel smell" from the tail pipe. get a fuel poressure checker. I can not tell you the number of cars in my time that i get brought to our shop with low fuel pressure due to bad regulators or dying pumps where people thought it weas all manner of engine controls. Pressure should be 35-45 psi?(help me out here guys my manuals are at work) and should hold steady less ormore will hurt your car so check it out.

try these two things first. then post back up with what you find on spark and fuel. good luck.
 
wow that is funny i started writing that previous post befor i went to make dinner and finished it afterwards. Sorry to hear about your crankwalk. this was sapossed to be the first post where i took the time to help someone out. looks like i was a lil off on this one....:rolleyes:
 
to quote 91TSI FWD "When a crankshaft "walks" it pushes the backplate into the crank sensor causing it to fail (literally, it tears through the crankshaft angle sensor)...If your crank sensor has suddenly failed, the chances that the sensor has done so on its own are low. To replace the sensor alone is a short term fix, if your crankshaft is walking", So between the sensor failing, the repeated documented history of idle problems that are unrelated to the ISC or the BISS, and my now no start condition, and the incredibly excessive amount of crank play(.0088); Plus there was also my choice of clutch (ACT 2600) and its infamous nature of forcing cranks to walk, as it is such a high pressure application. Furthermore, my local mechanic checked things out, and gave me the same diagnoses as well. In reply to Kloopofadown, I purchased a new biss this past summer when I was having all the associated idle problems, and this did nothing at all to fix.
 
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