Shaking, Cel, and Bad Boost? (all of a sudden while driving)

[PieEyedPiper]

I was driving on the highway, 3kprm in 5th, when I felt the car start to shake. It didnt build up to it or anything. It just started to shake. I saw the CEL come on. I turned down my music to notice my bov was ringing much more than it ever had in the past. Then I saw my boost gauge spazzing out all over the place.

Of course I pulled over and popped the hood to find that nothing was out of place, and the idle was smooth.

I limped her home in 4th staying out of boost cause whenever I got near 0psi or even just less than 10 inHg the car would shake and the bov would be ringing.

It runs fine if I stay out of boost. No intercooler piping is loose.
I'd check my CEL, believe me I want to, badly. But the palm I bought just stopped turning on about a month ago. No clue whats wrong with it. Replaced the battery and everything.

I've had a car problem everyday this week.

 

[oldman]

Which plugs are you using?

I would run a quick pressure test specifically to see if the bov is leaking, also make sure the vacuum line from IM to BOV is in good shape. Are you using a mbc? Is it tapped to the BOV line? Sorry you have had nothing but problems but it's the best way to learn.

 

[aadperformance]

check the connection of your fuel injectors, I had one of the connectors loosen a bit up once and the same thing you described happened. It didn't look like a problem, but it came loose just enough to not give a signal to the injector.

 

[oldman]

check the connection of your fuel injectors, I had one of the connectors loosen a bit up once and the same thing you described happened. It didn't look like a problem, but it came loose just enough to not give a signal to the injector.

That's what the metal clips are for.

 

[aadperformance]

That's what the metal clips are for.

tell that to the person who didn't put them on the car before I bought it

 

[ddavisaf]

Metal clips? There for a reason?
I'd also check your upper intercooler pipe under the fuse box. If it's not bolted to the plate above the intercooler it's possible for it to shift along with the motor causing the pipe to come off in boost conditions. It'll pop itself back on though when your get outta boost.
Also, take your car to Auto Zone and have them run the codes for you.

 

[95TalonOwner]

I had that happen to me, shaking horribly, BOV going crazy, all that stuff when i went into boost. For me, I needed new plugs and wires and that solved my problem right away. Just get NGK BPR6ES and gap them to .028. I think you should be good to go after that.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Thanks for the replies guys!

Heh, I'll have to check and see if I have the metal clips. I didn't get around to pressure testing but I dismantled the entire intake trac and reinstalled my 2g bov and removed my MBC that was tee'd at the bov line. Of course I can only boost ~10lbs with my leaky 2g bov but I'm breaking in a new clutch anyhow so it don't matter.

Still have the code up though I'll see if I can get to an autozone and find out what it is.

Plugs are wires should be good, but I'll check my plugs (NGK BPR6ES, for oldman and 95TalonOwner ) as I havent removed them in about 1000miles. I'll also start the car at night and look for arching.

I know I kinda skipped the diagnosing part, but I just wanted to put it together and ahve it working. I'll reinstall my MBC (possible NOT at my bov line?) and my 1g bov and test 'em properly.
Thanks!

 

[oldman]

I didn't get around to pressure testing but I dismantled the entire intake trac and reinstalled my 2g bov.

What do you mean "but"? It's especially because you dismantled the entire intake tract that a boost leak test is most urgent. After my FMIC kit install with all Tbolt clamp tighten, I was only able to pressurize the intake up to 2psi, found 8 leaks 3 of which were huge.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

And I totally agree with you. My only excuse was that I had no time, and really low light. It was what 7pm here? It's dark. So I only had time to rebuild the intake tract.
And to be honest, I trust my workmanship over the work I had done months prior, not to mention on a car that had been sitting for over 90 days.

I'm confident I've proved my issue unrelated to my intake area and conctrated on the ignition system.

But I totally realize, in ideal conditions, leak testing is always a good idea. I just needed the car to work again and if the problem lay there in, I would surely cure it by replacing the bov and rebuilding the system.

moving along..

What kind of problem would cause a code P0300 "Random Multiple Cylinder Misfire"? I could make up 10 different things that could cause that kind of code, but it's hard to pin point it while having questions.

Does this mean all my cylinders?
Would it tell me "Misfire on Cyl 1 and Cyl 3" if it was only 2 affected cylinders?
Does this mean 2 or more, or 3 or more Cylinders?
Why was the problem so instantaneous?
Why did it fix itself only after being shut off and turned back on?
Why did the car idle normally during this odd condition?
Why did the car respond poorly onlywhen nearing zero vacuum?
Was it because the spark was firing enough to idle the car and run normally but when coming to <9 inHg and on was the spark too weak and was maybe getting blown out by the rapid change in pressure (negative pressure to positive pressure of course) ?

I could ask more, but I'll hold off for now. Thanks for reading you guys.

 

[ddavisaf]

Yes..



No seriously though. With a weak ignition system you will have a misfire condition present. With bad gas you can have a misfire condition. With a bad ISC you can have a misfire condition.
Ohm the coil pack, plug wires, and check the plugs for color and gap if their new and post back. When you test the coil pack, test both primary and secondary coils.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

I'll do that for sure.
Bad gas eh? Thats definitely a possibility because I'd been using gas that was in my car, sitting, for 100+ days.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

ok, I've ruled out fuel.

My plugs are new and the wires look to be in good shape. I've yet to check my coil packs, is there a vfaq for that? (will look after this post)

It happens if I let the car stay at 3krpm on the hwy. I have the cruise control set.
It sounds to me and acts the same way as the people who have done a 6bolt swap into their 2g.

Why would that be? and what are the downsides of disconnecting my TPS to fix it? lots of people report good results.

edit: ok i tested the coils by just puting the leads in each of the holes on the coil packs. on both coils my meter read ~20kohm sounds out of spec to me.
what do you guys think?

 

[ddavisaf]

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=33471&d=1088544507

 

[ddavisaf]

Also, alot of times people experience this problem because of the 2G ECU and the 1G CAS.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Thats what I've come to know from reading about this issue. But the thing is I don't have a 1g anything in my car (does a bov count? ok ok.. not funny).
I'll check that link though thanks for the reply.

 

[ddavisaf]

I misread. I thought you said you had a 6 bolt in the car.... sorry.