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Bogging and Stuttering at 3000RPM

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W_Static

Probationary Member
21
0
Nov 25, 2004
San Jose, California
well a few days ago my dsm blew the alternator and well i needed a jump so i asked a guy to help me out. while we were getting the car to start he decided to "adjust" my idle cause my car is not tuned well right now so the idle surgess every now and then, i tell him not to mess with anything cause he got my idle to 1700 rpm so i turned it down but now after he started moveing stuff around my car hesitates to accelerate, then it stutters its way up to speed then at around 3000 rpm it boggs itself back down to 2000rpm. even at a standstill just reving it it wont make it to 3300 rpm very easily if it even gets there at all. is there anyone local that can come take a look at my car. i took it to tech3 performance and charged me 90 bucks to tell me to rebuild my motor, and keep in mind they have been trying to sell my a JDM Cyclone motor for months and they dont know how too use the data logger in my car so i need help from a real DSMer who know theyre way around these cars, pm me if you can help and we'll meet up. :talon:
 
I would start with a compression test. More importantly, what did your friend touch, did you ask him?
 
he messed with the idle screw on the throttlebody. my compression is 130 on the dot on each one but i got the compression test before the engine fully warmed up and tech3 did that today when i took the car to them, now theyre saying its that my rings are fried and my spark plugs are toast. everytime i talk to them they come up with something else. i do know that the hks metal headgasket is notorious for leaking on DSMs and it does on my car but its not getting into my oil just my cylinders. but my idle was fine and it pulled good and hard before that guy started messing with my motor, oh and he was tapping my TPS and so now my check engine light is on. :talon: :talon: :talon:
 
Retorque the headbolts. You're supposed to always retorque them after a HG change 500-1000 miles after the maintenance.
Run a hot test, you can't get accurate readings with a cold compression test.
What kind of spark plugs are you running and at what gap?
Whats your fuel pressure at?
Any boost leaks?
 
W_Static said:
he messed with the idle screw on the throttlebody. my compression is 130 on the dot on each one but i got the compression test before the engine fully warmed up and tech3 did that today when i took the car to them, now theyre saying its that my rings are fried and my spark plugs are toast. everytime i talk to them they come up with something else. i do know that the hks metal headgasket is notorious for leaking on DSMs and it does on my car but its not getting into my oil just my cylinders. but my idle was fine and it pulled good and hard before that guy started messing with my motor, oh and he was tapping my TPS and so now my check engine light is on. :talon: :talon: :talon:
There are two ways to do this,

1. Bring the car home and start troubleshooting from the beginning with our help.

2. Leave the car in their hands but double check with us on what they say, starting from their compression test results and how they come to the conclusion that the rings are bad.

You can't do both because the last thing you want is to have a pissed off mechanic working on your car because you keep trying to tell them what to do because some guy on the internet said so. With that said, assuming your descriptions are fair and accurate, this shop does not sound like they are knowlegable on dsm or not very honest. My suggestion is option one or bring it to a trusted dsm shop.
 
i'm not a knowagable as Oldman but on my first dsm the ecu went out after i jumped it off
it was clicking the fuel pump relay on-off-on-off-on fast enough to keep the car runing but it would not rev past 2500 just some thing to check
 
well im getting my car back from them thursday and ill run a compression test at my buddies house, the fuel pump is a rewired 3s VR-4 fuel pump. My plugs are pretty bad now, my car is running rich to compensate for the head gasket leaking, i will try retorquing the head down again. what are the torque specs when retorquing them?? any special sequence when retorquing the head?? that shop doesnt know much about DSMs though, they think its perfectly fine to run the BOV atmospheric with out any type of tuning. and were about to cut my recirculation hose to my BOV but i told them not to. ill bring my car home in the evening and ill let you guys know what happens. i need some one to help me out with my SAFC II and my datalogger i havent quite gotten the hang of this stuff yet so i dont mess with it, but i need to lean it out cause i can watch my gas gauge go down LOL but i am running FIC 650s and i want to get 550s instead. :talon:
 
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