Radiator Drain Plug [Merged 9-8]

[noob-e]

Hi All,
I am about to replace my upper and lower radiator hoses, due to some minor leaking. I figure that I should flush the radiator while I am at it. I will probably try to replace the thermostat, also. I have ran a ton of searches on how to flush a radiator and I think I have a pretty good idea of what is involved. However, I am still confused about some things....

Most posts give the following info......run engine with flush product in radiator----->drain and fill with water----->run for a few minutes----->drain again and fill with 50/50 antifreeze.

Here are my questions; each time that you "Drain" the coolant, are you draining from the bottom of the radiator, or from the engine coolant drain plug? I would think that you need to drain from both places, just to ensure that you get all of the flush and crap out of there.

Where is the engine coolant drain plug on a 97 GSX?

I search but could not clarify this. Please help a rookie out!

 

[xveganxcowboyx]

I've never read up on any "proper" procedures, but I find it easiest just to disconnect the hoses and force water through the radiator and engine with a garden hose. Occasionally plug up the outlets and let it fill, drain again.


Just out of curiosity, has anyone had issues with orange coolant? It seems to be common on mitsu engines. Put it in green and it turns "rusty."

 

[smuckles]

i do the garden hose thing to. Disconnect upper an lower radiator hoses flush the radiator. Then disconnect a heater hose and flush the block and heater core out. Next reconnect everything.

i don't know about the green stuff always turning to rust. I think you have some problems to deal with.

The residue left from the green stuff can cause the red stuff to gunk up in your cooling system

 

[dave99gst]

the petcock(drain) is on the bottom of the radiator on the drivers side -follow the right side of the a/c fan down to the bottom of the radiator (while standing in front of the car facing the motor)

 

[noob-e]

Thanks for the info. I pretty much understand that part. My question is geared more towards the fact that it seems like you can't flush the block w/o opening the engine block coolant drain plug. If you try and flush the block with a hose, then you will be leaving a good bit of water in the actual block itself. Without draining the block, how will you know what mixture to fill with? You won't b/c you don't have a way to know exactly how much water is stuck in there.

Can anyone please clarify or let me know if I am just confused

 

[ddavisaf]

You run it once, drain it out. Run with water, drain it out. Run it again, drain the water again. Then from there a 50/50 mix. If you're not exact it doesn't matter, it will not negatively effect your motor.

Oh.. about the color...

DO NOT MIX. The two coolant types chemically react to each other. Your car has green. Stay with green. Well, my car has green. Your car should to
If you mix, then you can cause alot of build up in your block and such.

 

[hellotbone]

Thats why they make antifreeze testers. Its a small gadget that tests the specific gravity of the mixture and tells you when you have enough green and enough water in there. Pretty cheap. Get some straight antifreeze instead of just the 50/50 to cut some of the water left in your block after the water only flush.

 

[bhop]

I've been noticing a strong coolant smell lately when I get out of my car after a drive. Today, I looked under the car and saw a couple drips from the drain plug area. I reached under and the plug twisted some. Thinking it was loose, I twisted it a little to tighten it and the part that you grab broke off in my hand, leaving half of it stuck in there, and leaking more coolant out. Needless to say, this is a problem.

Unfortunately none of the stores that were still open had a drain plug in stock. I have an appointment at satan for something on Tuesday. I need something that will plug the leak temporarily long enough for me to drive about 5 miles to the dealer, maybe some type of putty or something..as long as it's easily removeable via scraping or some other method... any ideas?

 

[Defiant]

If there's enough of a tip to mount it on, a larger rubber or vinyl vacuum cap held on with a hose clamp would be swell.
Best of luck getting the little bastard left-over bit of plug out of there. I'd try an ez-out in a reversible drill.

 

[mattspyder]

Does anyone know where i can pick up a radiator drain plug. I noticed today when changing the oil that fluid was dripping out of it and i tried tighting it up and the cap part of it busted off. so the threads are still in there, but I still got a drip coming from it. Does autozone sell them or where can I get one.

 

[blkwidow]

Autozone does carry them but I think it is a special order item. Give them a call, it's possible they might have one for you.

 

[1990talon]

check the local parts stores then goe to the dealer

 

[1990talon]

If you have a shucks around the online store says it is normal stock.

 

[mattspyder]

yup I called a local parts store and they have one. now I just gotta figure out how to get that bad boy out of there. I might be able to screw it out with a needle nose. I think I can grab onto some of it.
thanks

 

[1990talon]

Also those don't have to be supper tight just hand tight.

 

[Defiant]

Use a reversible drill.

 

[mattspyder]

wow I got the drain plug but its too big. The part number is 61125. I got it from a local parts store, it says right on it for mitsubishi.
what the hell do I do now. The tip of the plug doesnt even go in so I cant even get the threads started. Is it a different part for the eclipse spyder? rather than the regular hard top.

 

[1990talon]

4902161 That is the product number a shucks that should do it $2.99 try that one and if it dosent work the the next step would probably be the dealer.

 

[1990talon]

Oh one more thing they list it as the radiator drain ####. they edited it it is really called that radiator drain Co##. ##ck

 

[mattspyder]

whats the shucks parts website? I got one that fit in there but it didnt thread in there right.

 

[LA97GST]

I think a few dodges used the same radiator. Bring your broken pieces in and compare what they have for neons. Might get a hit

 

[Defiant]

Are you running an aftermarket radiator?
A drain còck is the brass one with the center that unscrews, as opposed to the more modern drain plug, where the whole nylon screw comes out until the groove in it allows drainage.

There should be enough left on the head of the old one to be able to determine the size. Don't panic, they're standard items and are only in a few sizes.

 

[mattspyder]

I dont know if its a aftermarket radiator or not. I really dont know what to look for either. I looked for a name brand on it yesterday but couldnt see anything.
and yes it is the drain ####. thats the name of it. its not a brass fitting its a plastic one. I was trying to find a bolt that might screw in there but couldnt find any luck getting one to match the threads.

 

[Defiant]

Okay, I know this doesn't matter to the modern world, and that the parts catalogs and the dorks on the counters with the 4" wide ties don't know either. But here's the difference.

 

[marq95gst]

Does anyone know where i can pick up a radiator drain plug. I noticed today when changing the oil that fluid was dripping out of it and i tried tighting it up and the cap part of it busted off. so the threads are still in there, but I still got a drip coming from it. Does autozone sell them or where can I get one.

I walked into NAPA auto parts awhile back and they had it in stock.