Sporradic interior lighting

[9797gstgst]

Hello,

I;m new to this forum and I'm glad I found it. I have searched for answers to this problem- I'm a COMPLETE newb to DSMs (all cars, in fact) and don't know ANYTHING. I have a 97 eclipse gst, no mods at all. Anyway, when I open the driver's door the lights inside don't usually go on. Sometimes, if I close it so it almost closes (but not quite) the lights go on and then dim out again, but if I leave the door open they fade. When opening the passenger door, the lights go on fine and stay on until the door is shut.

...weird, as it sometimes works, sometimes doesn't...

Please, explain simply. I am DUMB!

 

[GTM]

Hello,
...
Anyway, when I open the driver's door the lights inside don't usually go on. Sometimes, if I close it so it almost closes (but not quite) the lights go on and then dim out again, but if I leave the door open they fade. When opening the passenger door, the lights go on fine and stay on until the door is shut.

...weird, as it sometimes works, sometimes doesn't...

Please, explain simply. I am DUMB!

Get yourself a can of WD-40 and spray the door switches while working the button. May as well go over the hatch and the other door switshes along with hinges and latches.

Let us know if that doesn't solve the problem.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[9797gstgst]

Thank you very much for your reply, but where are the door switches and what's the button?

Thanks!!!

 

[GTM]

Thank you very much for your reply, but where are the door switches and what's the button?

Thanks!!!

You are welcome.

The door switch aka button, will be protruding from the door frame either below the latch or at the hinge pillar between the 2 hinges. It may be covered with a small rubber boot or a button that you can push easily with 1 finger. It has a spring and will pop back out as you release the pressure. If it's just the button, spray where the button slides in and out. Give it a little spray, then work the button 3-4 times, repeat the sequence a couple more times. If it has a boot you will have to lift the boot to gain access to the button. They are not hard to find but if you can't then ask someone to help.

Usualy it's just corroded contacts and the WE-40 will solve the problem, if it doesn't then the switch will have to be removed with a screwdriver and inspected for rust / damage but you can do a better job spraying with them out. If this fails then you may have other problems that may be beyond your skills.

Let us know what happens.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[Vtec_Killer]

I had the same problem with my 94 TSi. I pulled the switches, which were highly coroded and cleaned them, which seemed to work for like 2 minutes. But they still would not come on. I pulled the fuse and that was fine also, but when I put the fuse back in they worked but then went out But when i open my hatch they work fine. So should I just get new switches or am I looking at a electronic problem?

 

[GTM]

I had the same problem with my 94 TSi. I pulled the switches, which were highly coroded and cleaned them, which seemed to work for like 2 minutes. But they still would not come on. I pulled the fuse and that was fine also, but when I put the fuse back in they worked but then went out But when i open my hatch they work fine. So should I just get new switches or am I looking at a electronic problem?

You have to go through a process of elimination, usually rust is a good sign they need replacing. You need a schematic to see which wires can be shorted together to complete the circuit. I don't wan't to tell you to replace the switches when it's the dimmer that's failing.

I have to ask this, you know these are on an adjustable delay decay plus the off position for the doors? I don't think the hatch is influenced by this setting since you are not worried about being night blinded.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[Vtec_Killer]

HaHa Yeah I know that al least. But they immediatly cut out rather that fade out after a few seconds. Thanks for your help.

 

[GTM]

HaHa Yeah I know that al least. But they immediatly cut out rather that fade out after a few seconds. Thanks for your help.

Are you saying that they do go and off but the the decay controller no longer works??
How many wires on the switch, 2 or 3 and do you have automatic seat belts?

Cheers,
GTM

 

[Vtec_Killer]

Are you saying that they do go and off but the the decay controller no longer works??
How many wires on the switch, 2 or 3 and do you have automatic seat belts?

Cheers,
GTM

They only work when I have the switches from the door pulled, and I am wiggling it around or when im putting the fuse back in? As far as wires go I have 2 and yes I have automatic seatbelts. They are the biggest pain in the ass, I can not tell you how many times I have got hit in the head. Thanks for your all your help GTM.

 

[GTM]

They only work when I have the switches from the door pulled, and I am wiggling it around or when im putting the fuse back in? As far as wires go I have 2 and yes I have automatic seatbelts. They are the biggest pain in the ass, I can not tell you how many times I have got hit in the head. Thanks for your all your help GTM.

Other than what you have done the mounting screw may also be a connection. Look at the screw mount hole, if there is a metal piece surrounding where the screw would exit the hole then clean that contact and the door jam mount hole. Use a small piece of sandpaper the size of a postage stamp and your finger for the door jam, rotate over the screw hole. If you sand side to side it will extend beyond the switch mount and can be seen along with encouraging rust build-up.

A Pick Your Part type wrecking yard might yield a couple of servicable switches, new they probably charging $7+ each. Nine times out of ten it will be the switch but I've replace decay modules as well and without a schematic I can't give you test instructions.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[Vtec_Killer]

Ok thanks! You GTM