a couple of problems with my new car.

[bnpimpn]

i just bought a 95 tsi awd....its an auto, but heres a couple of quick questions....when i go WOT...the car seams to studder alot really fast....then i can feel the turbo spool and the car pulls hard....could it be spark plugs/wires? or what are my other options?.....

2nd problem

i try to switch the lights onto bright beams and the only thing that happens is that the little blue indicator on the dash comes on....the brights however do not. what could be causing this?

 

[unior]

1. boost leak probably

2. check fuses, report back

 

[bnpimpn]

1. boost leak probably

2. check fuses, report back

would a boost leak cause a studder before the turbo spools?....

i checked the fuses...there doesnt seam to be any that are blown....at all...if the switching mechanism in the steering colum was faulty would the blue indicator on the dash come on?...cause it does.

 

[unior]

would a boost leak cause a studder before the turbo spools?....

i checked the fuses...there doesnt seam to be any that are blown....at all...if the switching mechanism in the steering colum was faulty would the blue indicator on the dash come on?...cause it does.

a boost leak can cause many many diveability problems

however now that i read your post more carefully - yeah duh change your plugs NGK BPR6ES or BPR7ES $12 bux

as for the lights...hmmm....check the bulbs, visually inspect the wiring, check the high beam fuse under the hood if you havn't, check relays...maybe swap high beam relay for fog to test....

 

[bnpimpn]

a boost leak can cause many many diveability problems

however now that i read your post more carefully - yeah duh change your plugs NGK BPR6ES or BPR7ES $12 bux

as for the lights...hmmm....check the bulbs, visually inspect the wiring, check the high beam fuse under the hood if you havn't, check relays...maybe swap high beam relay for fog to test....

yeah the studdering problem seams to be just anytime you really put your foot into it.....it feels almost like the car wants to go, then all of a sudden it studders really fast. then will get power and studder some more... And is occuring much much more frequently than it was when i test drove it :thumbdown...im gonna change the plugs and wires in the morning. Hopefully im not wasting my money. what is the difference between the BPR6ES or BPR7ES plugs? would it be worth my money to spend a bit more on wires or are regular wires good enough?

 

[Eclipsei95cl]

You want to get the BPR7ES's, Stock are the 6s..Soo Ethier get the 7s or the 8s

 

[4GSixty3]

Why get 8's? Stick with 6's or 7's. A friend of mine just had this same stutter problem and had even taken it to a dealership and a mechanic to try and fix this problem and no1 could. We pulled the plugs (which were BOSCH PLATINUM!) and changed them with 7's and now it runs like a champ.

 

[bnpimpn]

well thanks for the replies guys, the new plugs and wires make the car run like new!

 

[unior]

You want to get the BPR7ES's, Stock are the 6s..Soo Ethier get the 7s or the 8s

8s are stupid

RDRKT makes over 550awhp on 30 psi with 7s

 

[unior]

well thanks for the replies guys, the new plugs and wires make the car run like new!

sweet now go have fun in the snow up there

 

[Eclipsei95cl]

8s are stupid

RDRKT makes over 550awhp on 30 psi with 7s

I mean why not get 8s if the pricing is not much of a difference..Its not like its gonna hurt him he will only benefit right?

 

[unior]

8s are another step colder

you might not get enough spark

 

[suicidal2af]

I mean why not get 8s if the pricing is not much of a difference..Its not like its gonna hurt him he will only benefit right?

Colder plugs don't = better performance. You want plugs properly mated to operating temperature...stick to 6 or *maybe* 7 unless you're running huge boost.

 

[unior]

Colder plugs don't = better performance. You want plugs properly mated to operating temperature...stick to 6 or *maybe* 7 unless you're running huge boost.

6 are stock!

run 7s!!!