Car wont start code 41 [now]

[86MCSS]

Im just going to give you the entire story so there is no details left out.

--I bought a talon with a trashed engine and it took me about 3 weeks to fix it. The day I go to start it, it will not start. It had no engine codes and cranked over fine and It had good spark and fuel and compression. I sparyed starting fluid into the engine and it started. I let the engine sit there and idle and burn off its initial start up smoke and it threw a code for the coolant temp sensor. I check the plug and its trash so I fixed it and the code went away. And also the engine is idling at about 3k rpm. I adjusted the CAS and BISS screw and it only went down to 2k. It was getting late so i left the car alone until I had more time.

--NOW Its the middle of the week and I get home early from work and decide to mess with the talon. I crank and crank the car and it will not start. Sparyed starting fluid again and it starts again and revved to 2k rpm and stood there again, I checked the logger and it said I had 35 degrees of timing[no knock] at idle! I messed with BISS and throttle body cable and could not get it any lower. Checked the timing marks again and again as well. I messed with everything for a couple hours and it got dark so I left it alone again.

--Now this weeked I go to start the car again and it will crank and crank and not start. I spary starting fluid in it and it still will not start this time. I check my logger and its throwing code 41 [injector circut]. I checked the injectors and they all have 2.8 ohms. My manuel says it should be between 2 and 3. While i was down there i checked the ISC motor as well and it had 28 ohms so that checked out fine as well. I have checked all my fuses and spark and compression and fuel and its all there. It just will not start.

1.What else can I check that would throw code 41 [injector circut]? The injectors are squirting fuel.

2.Why is my idle so high? I checked the timing marks many times and they are all fine. I have no vacuum leaks and have not checked for boost leaks cause the car has not seen any boost as of yet.

All help is appreciated. If anymore info is needed please ask.

 

[girlieracr4g63]

Where is the timing set to? Sounds like the timing is off.

 

[86MCSS]

Thats what I keep thinking too. Because of the initial starting and it crank and cranks and cranks and does not start. I keep checking the marks and everything seems ok and lined up properly. I have no idea what next to check for the new code 41 that I have gotten. I just got it today

 

[girlieracr4g63]

What is the timing set at? Like using a timing light?

 

[86MCSS]

When it was running the logger said it was at 35* at a 2k rpm idle. I have a timing light but have not got the chance to check it now since the car will not start back up. So one problem at a time

 

[92redman]

You either have a bad injector(s), or one or more of the injector circuits are open or shorted, or you have a problem with the engine controller. Engine controller is the most likely, but the easiest and cheapest to go after is the wiring.

Your connectors may not be making contact, check for spread terminals or corrosion. Check for broken wires by pulling them apart in different locations.
Then pull out the computer and check to see if you got the infamous leaking capacitors(you should do this regardless if you get your starting problem fixed or not).

For the high idle, just because the ISC checked out okay does not mean it is not stuck in the wide open position.

 

[86MCSS]

Engine controller? Im assuming this is the computer?

How can I check to see if the ISC is stuck wide open?

Also so everyone knows When the car did start I took it for one test drive on a 2 mile round trip to get gas for it and other than the high idle is drove fine. Even with the high idle it was not missing...this is what leads me to believe the timing may not be off either. Its just confusing the piss out of me

 

[92redman]

Engine controller? Im assuming this is the computer?

Yes, it's bolted to the end of your center consol closest to the bulkhead. They are notorious for damage caused by leaking electrolytic capacitors. Check this out: http://www.tmo.com/howto/ecu1g/caps.htm

How can I check to see if the ISC is stuck wide open?

Unbolt it and look, it will usually be gumed up. Just clean it carefully with some brake clean or carb cleaner and dry it off. You can test it to see if it moves using a 9v battery.

What do you get if you check the resistance between the + and - terminal on each of the injector connectors(make sure key is off)?

My dad suggested unplugging the computer and ground each injector pin at the ecu connector. At the other end, attactch one lead of a 12 volt light bulb to the injector connector and the other end to the + battery post. This will load test each wire between the injector and computer to make sure there isn't excessive current draw causing your problem.

 

[86MCSS]

yeah I found how how to test the motor on the ISC from VFAQ. I think it said 6 volt battery though. I checked the injectors before it got dark on me and its all good. I have not checked the computer and surely hope its not that. I would be pissed damn it

 

[92redman]

Yeah, I meant to hit the 6 not 9.

I don't mean to test the injectors, I saw you did that already. I meant for you to check the resistance of the injector connectors. You should have a relatively high resistance between the + and - wires going to each injector with the ecu still plugged in, and you should have no continuity with the ecu unplugged. This will tell you if any of the wires are shorted together.

I really think it is the ecu, though. If you get it out and the board smells fishy or you see some corrosion under the 3 big capacitors, you may need to get it repaired or replaced.

 

[86MCSS]

Any other suggestions from folks? Just trying to gather as much info as possible so when I check everything I can check it all at once.