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something wrong with engine

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Team_Unknown

20+ Year Contributor
41
2
Feb 26, 2003
St. Cloud, Minnesota
Hey guys im have a problem with this 6 bolt jdm motor swap in a 1g car. we had it put together and fired it up and every 10 second or so u can here a loud tick noise from around the head and cant figure out why? Also check engine appears after 2-3 minute when ignition is on and also it would bog out and die. I was wondering can that possibly be a bent valve or so? PLEASE HELP!!!?
 
First off, find out what codes you are throwing. Ticking sound could be out of time? Have you double checked to make sure it is in time correctly?
 
I just took off a sparkplug from cylinder number one and it was crush and i replace it and turn the ignition on again and took it out agian and it was crush too. I dont know y? Is something wrong in that cylinder number one? I check the others and it was fine. Please help
 
Man, nothing should be hitting that if the car is still running. I was going to suggest you are hitting it because a valve might be bent, so it grazes the side of the plug, but usually with a bent valve, that means no compression, so the car won't really run. This is sounding bad. Maybe your plug is somehow getting too far down into the block. I have heard of someone over-tightening the plugs and cracking where they go in, thus making it where the plug can scoot further down and interefere with the combustion process. Something has got to be hitting it. What I would do, is take the plug out next to it and the plug that is getting crushed. Then I would count how many turns you do with the good plug until it is snug, and then see if you get that many counts when snugging up the bad one. That might tell you something.
 
yea because when i start that sucker up it idles perfect and sounds like a 2g turbo engine(and u know how quiet those car are) but after a 1 minute or so u can hear it start knocking inside every ten second like its hitting something (sparkplug maybe) and then check engine appears and then car bogs and die. But i dont know y?
 
Well, do that test, and then let me know. If I am not online here, I allways have my AIM on, and you can find me there.
 
ok i did the test and now its not hitting the sparkplug but when i leave it at idle for a min. or so check engine appears and it bogs and dies and it bogs suddenly when i rev it to 4-5000 rpm (like there is a leak on the bov or pipe, but everything is tight, DOUBLE CHECK) Also i dont here no bov sound when i rev it high not even a quiet shhh.... The engine is PLAIN stock for smog too. Can anybody help me especially some one in the sacramento area with a logger?

Thanks,
Yer Xiong
 
will i just find out the code and it is the knock sensor sensing knock in the engine? :( Is there anyway of fixing this problem by any chance? Or is this the end for this engine? Please help!!!?
 
would u guys think it would be bad bearings? like the balance shaft bearings and/or rod bearings that is causing the knock sensor to turn on check engine light? Like i said it knocks inside the engine like every 10 to 15 second and when check engine turns on the engine bogs and dies, but before it does that it idles steady at 1000 rpm for a min. or so and then that happens. PLEASE HELP??!!
 
so do u think if the rod bolts are coming off, would that had cause any damage to any internal in the engine? Also does that cause check engine to pop up? Remember my datalogger said the check engine light was because of knock and can a rod bolt cause knock? And can u give me a procedure on how to re-tight my rod bolts? Help me if you can.

Thanks,
Yer Xiong
 
If you're still wondering about the check engine light coming on every couple of minutes and when it comes on theres a sudden loss of power. I had that problem when i did the jdm motor in my 97 and i was worried because no one could figure it out. I ended up taking it to RRE and they fixed the problem by putting the dsm link in. Ever since then i've never had the problem. Let me know if you've figured it out or whatever.
 
Team_Unknown said:
so do u think if the rod bolts are coming off, would that had cause any damage to any internal in the engine? Also does that cause check engine to pop up? Remember my datalogger said the check engine light was because of knock and can a rod bolt cause knock? And can u give me a procedure on how to re-tight my rod bolts? Help me if you can.

Thanks,
Yer Xiong
i would like to make a few corrections. i finally pulled the head off of the engine. and lo and behold i was missing part of my piston and this is what caused the crushed spark plug the piston was beating up everything in the combustion chamber!:cry: i guess i was running too much timing advance melted the ross forged piston and now my engine is is junk.
just rebuilt the thing two months ago. 2700.00 in performance enternals only drove the car one week. know ruined. the piece of piston also ruined my head and 1mm ss valves :cry: so after all that hard work i am back to the drawing board. oh by the way i ran the car without my logger because for the past 3 months i didnot use it because the car was down. i charged the thing and for some reason the palm vx touch sceen would not act right! not running the logger cost me my investment.
 
i dont think mine is that worst, but i never know. I havent even done nothing to the car but just turno on the engine. I think its something else thats causing the knock sensor to turn on. also i have a very low compresion on cylinder number 1, which is 90 psi on and the other rest is 149 psi. something is wrong, i have to figure out. swapping the original 80,000 mi. back in. oh yeah i was wondering when putting a new head gasket do u need to resurface the head and/or the block? Please let me know and thats alot guys for all the help and commitment i appreciated a lot.


Thanks a lot,
Yer
 
Team_Unknown said:
i dont think mine is that worst, but i never know. I havent even done nothing to the car but just turno on the engine. I think its something else thats causing the knock sensor to turn on. also i have a very low compresion on cylinder number 1, which is 90 psi on and the other rest is 149 psi. something is wrong, i have to figure out. swapping the original 80,000 mi. back in. oh yeah i was wondering when putting a new head gasket do u need to resurface the head and/or the block? Please let me know and thats alot guys for all the help and commitment i appreciated a lot.


Thanks a lot,
Yer
only if the head is not flat. if the engine has never ran hot then chances are the head and block are fine.
 
blackdsm97gsx said:
If you're still wondering about the check engine light coming on every couple of minutes and when it comes on theres a sudden loss of power. I had that problem when i did the jdm motor in my 97 and i was worried because no one could figure it out. I ended up taking it to RRE and they fixed the problem by putting the dsm link in. Ever since then i've never had the problem. Let me know if you've figured it out or whatever.
Dsmlink fixed your problem because your a 2g car with a 1g intakemanifold...right? there's no spot for the map sensor and dsmlink can ignore that sensor which throws the random multiple misfire code. all you had to do was turn the key off and back on even while driving. I had to do that for a month till I got my DSMLINK.
 
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