Help please read it involves battery/alternator

[headrec*]

Hey

What up? This is kinda of a long problem but bear with me. Bought the car and it would sometimes not start so just wiggled the terminals and it would start up right aWAY(only had to do this twice (battery problem part)). Well decided to get new terminals cause the old ones were gross as sh*t and thought this would solve the problem permanetely. Anyways yesterday i noticed my car would do things like the radio would turn off then come back after a minute. The auto seat belts sometime wouldn't work too. Today it was cranking over hella slow but it started up the first time. So I went to my friends house and it almost stalled out on the way over there (had to keep the rpms high (this is where alternator part comes in). When I got there I tried getting the terminals better connected but it stalled out on the way to maaco (were I was going to drop the car with my friend). So I jump started it and went home (keeping the rpms high so it wouldn't stall out). I had no serious problems like this til i switched terminals so i don't know which it is.

 

[headrec*]

Jump started it and as soon as i let out the clutch the car died and wouldn't crank over but it pretty much ran by itself once jumped. Also I tried to boost today and it just held back really bad (my friend just replaced his battery and said his car was a lot quicker so to speak) so that being said i'm leaning more towards the battery. I'm gonna go get my one out of my old talon and see if that fixes it so hopefully so.

 

[Black_Stalon]

Do you have/know how to use a voltmeter? If so, first thing I would do when the car is running is measure the voltage across the battery, it should be roughly 14 volts and that means the alternator is good and you most likely have a bad battery.

If the voltage is sufficiently lower then your alternator is toast and is not properly charging your battery, hence the bad starts.

 

[BUCK]

- I had my Bumper to Bumper guy look up the Highest Amp Mitsu Alternator that would fit a 1G:

- Max amperage 121 amps

- 100 amps at 3000rpm

- Max 1548 watts

- Manufacturer Ampere - Ampere P/N 21491

- Cost was about $150.00

- I run a 1 Farad Cap too with an El-Cheapo Battery that pushes a 500 Watt Sony Amp & head Unit no problems - no dimming, etc.

I put it on Car Ramps & come from underneath so no need to remove Fan - It's still a PITA...

Make sure you have NO Power Steering Fluid leaks dripping on your Alt - that will kill the Voltage Regulator in a Heartbeat & can toast your ECU...

 

[Defiant]

Insulate the positive terminal from the underside of the hood.

 

[StreetSleeper34]

May want to consider going to somewhere like Advance Auto, they do a full electrical check while the car is running with their BEAR machine. It can diagnose a bad battery, alt., starter, and cables. Most often it is a cable problem when everything else checks out ok. Considering it is free, you have nothing to lose and hopefully they will give you a pretty good idea where to start.

 

[headrec*]

I had left my palm in my other car so I grabbed that and got the battery out of my old car. The surface charge on the battery was 12.5 then i started it and it went to 12.1 so the alternator is deffinately toast. Hopefully I can find one cheap cause I don't want to spend 100 or even 50 for that matter.

 

[4g63swap]

I got a 1g alt if you need one sell it to ya cheap to 60 shipped.

let me know

 

[headrec*]

Got one 25 bucks. ANYWAYS. Figured out it wasn't the alternator. I had forgotten to hook up one of the connections on the battery so when I put the new one in it still read 12.1 so all trouble for nothing. Come to find out the new alternator I got was bad and the original one wasn't so had to do it all over again so I've done 3 alternator jobs now in the last couple of hours. FUN STUFF .