Problems with car, now in shop

[LiquidOC]

I'm trying to get a feel for what all is wrong with my car, before they start working on it.

OK, here's what happened, going around a long, sweeper left turn, in fourth gear, going about 40-45 MPH, I heard a clunk, sounded like it was just a rock that one of my tires kicked up, and hit the bottom of my car. Went to give it a little gas to get up the hill, and nothing happened, looked down at the gauges, and several lights were on. "OK, let's pull over and investigate this." I said to myself, putting my four-ways on and slowing the car to a stop. When I came to a stop, the engine came to one as well. "Crap....maybe I should have changed the timing belt sooner." was the first thought that came to my mind, and I immediately called my friend to bring over a toolset and help me on the side of the road. I pulled the upper timing belt cover, and THANK GOD, the belt was intact. So, I called up the towing office, and got them to bring out a flatbed, while waiting for the flatbed, I decided to try and start it to see if I really needed something done, or if it was just something insignificant that got bumped loose or something. Here's what happened when I tried to start it.

When I turned the key, I would have to wait a few times for the starter to actually turn over the engine, and make it run, which is normal, and what she has been doing for quite some time, but as soon as I took the key out of the "start" position, it would die. I turned the key and gave it some gas, and it ran REALLY rough, like my balance shafts were a half turn off or something. I'm hoping that it was just the balance shaft belt, and it didn't catch anything else important, but I would like some advice from the rest of the knowledgable people here on tuners, before I throw in the towel and just tell him (the mechanic) to diagnose it and then fix it. Any and all help is appreciated, but try to not just be an idiot and say "I told you so." please. Thanks!

 

[92awddsm]

Maybe the altenator? It could have been going bad all along and finally froze up slinging the belt and causing the thump noise. Thats the only guess I have at the moment.

 

[LiquidOC]

all the other belts that I can see without removing the lower timing belt cover are there, and intact, also, all the tracks on those belts are pristeen.

 

[LiquidOC]

anyone else have a suggestion? I'm guessing it's either the balance shaft belt broke, or I seriously ####ed something up in my tranny.

 

[temfate]

The balance shaft belt normally takes out the timing belt. Since you say that didn't happen i'd think of other internals... Maybe you threw a bearing? You're gonna have to pull some of your engine apart. But might as well do it yourself rather than spending cash on a shop... Worst case scenario you take it to a shop anyway, best case it's something simple you can fix (like your balance shaft belt theory...

 

[Eclipsemblue]

you said it takes a few tries to start your car and when you release the the start it stalls out.... dude are you sure your starter isnt shot . cause when you start your car a starter shoots out a little gear spindle thing that turns the flywheel to turn over the engine (turn it on) when you release from ignition the starter spindle is suppose to pop back into the starter and the fly wheel spins freely without resistance. If your starter is not going back in that can be your problem, id pull the starter out its 2 bolts and check to see if the spindle is sticking out if it is... time for a new starter, this is a suggestion it may not be the solution to your problem.

 

[LiquidOC]

OK, here's the new scenario, my timing belt tensioner got loose, and timing skipped one tooth (Or so the mechanic says....) So, I'm looking at buying a remanufactured head from one of the performance shops listed on this site, and I was wondering if a regular rebuilt (close to) stock head would be able to support 300 horses to the wheels. I'm going to be going for ARP Head Studs, and the likes, and running the 7 bolt bottom end until I can get the funding to replace that. That being said, the same head that I run on a 7-bolt can be used on a 6-bolt whenever I get the money to put it in there, correct?

 

[LiquidOC]

And does anyone know if there is a head rebuilder out there that is reputable and will let me send in my core after i recieve the rebuilt one?

 

[temfate]

Chances are you have a local shop that can rebuild heads for less than the performance shops advertised here. And if you're going "mostly" stock as you said that should be fine. Just tell em' you want a 3 angle valve job (5 gets pricey). And the stock head supports 400 horse just fine, so yes it'll do 300!

You might want to consider more agreesive cams at some point (hks 272?), and replacement valves that will handle higher heat levels; but in general if you're target power is 300 don't bother with any of that stuff. Just take it to a shop that will give you a warranty on their work. No warranty = questionable work.

 

[LiquidOC]

that's more or less my problem...I don't really have/know of any reputable machinists/head rebuilders around my town/area. So, since the stock head will hold up to 300 horses no problem, I could go with one of the stockers from one of the vendors here, right, and it should bolt up onto a 6-bolt once i buy that too, correct?

 

[temfate]

Well I own a 1st gen, so I haven't ever tried myself, but from what I've read the head are swappable, but you'd want a 2g head such that it has the sensors made for your car. The 1g head wouldn't have the correct CAS I believe. So yes, you can do it that way.