CAS question

[TooMuchStereo]

Ok, So I did a little searching, and I just want to make sure of something before I go and do it...

The Cam Angle Sensor, does it need to be adjusted, if I'm taking the sensor off of one engine, and installing it on a different engine?

Does it matter?

I ask because I just recently finished putting my Talon back together with a replacement engine, and just finished putting the engine bay back together, but when I go to crank it, the engine turns over, and coughs and jerks like it's about to start, but it doesn't actually fire

I have fuel and air (already checked and double checked), and the timing should be correct; all the timing marks are lined up correctly when #1 is at TDC. The ECU should be fine, it was working fine before the engine swap, and it never made any funny smells (I previously owned a Mitsu Mirage, and I know what the burned out ECU looks and smells like)

Thanks, Jake

 

[Colt2.0]

It shouldn't matter. I imagine generally that at the factory they just slap them on. If they had to calibrate to each particular engine, I think they'd find a different route.

This may sound stupid, but are your spark plug wires in the right spot? If everything worked before and you're using all the same parts, this my be an issue. Other than that, did you check the valve timing on the replacement engine before installing? I've seen some really strange things in 'rebuild engines', once in a nissan engine, I found the camshafts had been intalled in the reverse locations they should have been.

Anyway, if everything is ok with the engine and everything was ok with all of your sensors and they are intalled correctly, the only other source of error i can think of right now would be the plug wires.

Originally posted by TooMuchStereo
Ok, So I did a little searching, and I just want to make sure of something before I go and do it...

The Cam Angle Sensor, does it need to be adjusted, if I'm taking the sensor off of one engine, and installing it on a different engine?

Does it matter?

I ask because I just recently finished putting my Talon back together with a replacement engine, and just finished putting the engine bay back together, but when I go to crank it, the engine turns over, and coughs and jerks like it's about to start, but it doesn't actually fire

I have fuel and air (already checked and double checked), and the timing should be correct; all the timing marks are lined up correctly when #1 is at TDC. The ECU should be fine, it was working fine before the engine swap, and it never made any funny smells (I previously owned a Mitsu Mirage, and I know what the burned out ECU looks and smells like)

Thanks, Jake

 

[Colt2.0]

Of course, I could be comepletely wrong.

 

[fivestardsm]

The cas does have to be adjusted, Thats how you tune your timing and why they are slotted insted if piloted!
Rule of thumb, when the cam gears are in the up timed position, (doll pins up) the cas has a slot in one of the 2 ears that goes in the cam. When the cams are in position, the slot should be facing the front of the car. Also if you dont have the tools to time the engine properly (timing lite) Then you adjust the cas at about the middle of the slot, this should put it close enough to make it run fine.

Hope this helps, if you cant figure out the slot, let me know and i will try and find a pic.

Steve.

 

[TooMuchStereo]

Ok, so I'm back. I haven't had as much time as I'd have liked to work on the Talon due to finals and all that, but I got it running a few weeks ago.

Turns out the the MAF sensor wasn't completely bad, but it was out of whack enough that it prevented the car from starting, and compounded that problem by flooding the engine...so I unplugged the MAF and blew the gas out of the cylinder head, and the car started.

Didn't idle too well, so I said what the hell, and plugged the MAF sensor back in (while it was running), and it ran a little better.

So a few days later I got another (slightly better) MAF sensor, and now it starts up fine..

Problem now is that the engine is running extremely rich, on what should be OEM replacement injectors...also the idle is completely shot to hell.

I'm about to go and reset the idle, but I can't figure out why the engine is running so rich.
I've run the CAS and the TPS through all their ranges of adjustment, and I've tried three working MAFs on it so far, but it still runs rich

Thanks, Jake