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Tesnisoner tool

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killab443

20+ Year Contributor
602
3
Nov 24, 2003
Howell, New Jersey
Do I have to use the tensioner tool? (the big bolt) or can I get around it somehow
 
You do not need the tool. Don't worry about that. When you are putting it all back together, remove the tensioner from the block. Take the tensioner and compressit in a vice like Beef mentioned, or if you do not have one you can compress it with a jabck and the bottom of your car. When it is compressed, put a pin through the holes to hold it tight. I have found out the hard way that a grenade pin is the best way to go because those allen wrenches hurt when you smash your hand into the frame of your car from pulling too hard. After that you have only to reattach the tensioner, and when ready pull the pin.

Bottom Line: Leave the tool out of this :thumb:
 
Originally posted by killab443 Do I have to use the tensioner tool? (the big bolt) or can I get around it somehow
Originally posted by killab443
ok cool thanks

NO - not cool - that is piss-poor advice fm Sickinger & RB IMO.

The KILLAB LIVES!

Just get a 12inch piece of 8MM Allthread & a couple Nuts - You WILL need it & be VERY glad you have it - What the above guys FAIL to point out is that the Grenade Pin is the easiest way to see if Tensioner setting is CORRECT - so - AFTER Tensioning the Eccentric Pulley you see if the Pin will slide out - & MORE importantly - if it will slide back IN - if it WON"T - then Tension is INcorrect.

- If Tension is INCORRECT - you need to use the Allthread Tool to DETENSION the Tensioner to get the pin BACK IN - so you can go BACK to Eccentric Pulley & change PRE-LOAD so as to achieve correct Tension Setting as determined by Grenade Pin. This is a HELLUVA lot easier than snatching the Tensioner off, putting it in a vice (& re-Torquing it to spec with Thread Sealant) EVERY DAMN TIME YOU MISS THE TENSION SETTING - & YOU WILL MISS IT!

Originally posted by RoasT BeeF
Just unbolt the tensioner, put it in a vise to compress it, and use a small drill bit or allen wrench to hold it in place. Bolt it back on and you're done.
RB I'm REALLY dissapointed in you here - were you Celebrating St Patty's at 1AM per chance?
 
Hm. I see what you are saying Buck.

I guess its just because I have done the timing on my car so many damn times I know exactly where to put the tensioner pulley so that when I bolt the hydro one back on its in the perfect spot and the pin goes right in every time. I need to remember that some people havent done the timing on their cars 9999990000 times like I have.

Oops.
 
I also have to do the oilpump and front cover ,I have to take it off to remove the rear bs, so does the tensioner still stay on?
 
Don't mind Buck, I can assure you that nobody else does. Although his technical experience does indeed follow another avenue that you can explore, he often just comes here to spew hate and discontent in any direction. I don't advertise myself to be an expert by any means, but I do know what works. I have been successful with my car several times and have not had a problem yet. Does that mean that one can never occur? Not at all, but we all know that owning a DSM is going to be a highly challenging experience. What Buck misses is the point of these forums, which is to educate people through experience. Some of us had strong success, and some of us have had setbacks, but through shared experience, we all learn.

R/

DS
 
Originally posted by killab443
wow what an oops that coulda been...

Not really. It still works if you know what you're doing. It's not like doing it this way is going to screw you up totaly everytime and damage your car. The only advantage of the tool is so you can set the tensioner pulley to the exact spot with minimal effort so that when you unscrew the tool the hydro tensioner is in the right spot every time. Its very easy as compared to my method is all. My method is not wrong by any means. I know a lot of people who do it this way. You just have to watch what you are doing and pay attention.
 
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