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Hard running, then it dies...pics inside

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SpoolinGSX

20+ Year Contributor
84
1
Nov 4, 2002
Bay Area, California
Basically my tranny got trashed 3 months ago when I hit a small boulder on this backroad after it had washed down from a rockface during the rain. Two weeks ago I got my new tranny in and spent last week installing it.

During the install when we were putting the flywheel in, I had my friend hold the crank still with a breaker bar in the pulley. The pulley moved back and forward a bit, obviously not a good thing. I didn't think that much of it until I started the car up after I was done.

The car sounded really loud and rough. It was pretty bad ass, like a muscle car. I assumed some of the problem was due to the fact that the tank of gas had been sitting in the car for 3 months. Then I discovered, quite easily, that I hadn't torqued the downpipe nuts. After tightening them, the car sounded a lot more like the Apexi N1 I was used to. The only issue was, that whenever I cranked over the motor when started, it was a lot louder than usual, as well as more...metallic I guess. I wasn't too worried because the sound was definitely coming from the starter, not the valves or something.

I come out the next morning to take the car to the gas station to give it some nice California 91 pisswater. Started up with same loud cranking as before. Backed out and started driving down the street. Every time I would push the clutch in, the car would rev...oh no! The idle was also quite high like 1300-1700 rpm. I thought that maybe the car was having some issues with the gas, as a quick look at the A/F gauge showed that it was not in closed loop and that it was running quite rich.

On my way to the gas station the car seemed perfectly fine, except for the fact that I still needed to bleed the clutch some more and that the idle issue was still happening. Pull up in the left turn lane to make a U-turn into the gas station. Idling...then all of the sudden the car dies. Doesn't make any noises or anything. Cranking...cranking...nothing. It won't start. Just making that annoying starting noise. It was turning over, had enough battery power, didn't want to start though.

Called the tow truck and we pushed it into the gas station. The mechanic there told me to crank it. As soon as I did he motioned for me to stop. He said I wasn't getting any compression, and that my timing belt must have skipped. He had me take off the timing belt cover and crank it over until the cams lined up. Then he looked down at the crank pulley and said it was off.

So I tow it home, start taking apart the pulleys to get the timing belt to check for myself. But as far as I can tell, all the marks are lined up. I have some pictures attached to show you.

Sorry this was so long, but I really need my car running. Any ideas as to what is wrong? I was planning on doing a compression and leak down test. Any other tests to perform?
 

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everything looks fone, If you were not getting any compression then it would not have started, right. How creditable is the mechanic?
 
Originally posted by custom240sx everything looks fone, If you were not getting any compression then it would not have started, right. How creditable is the mechanic?

coltboostin: looks good to me

Where's the picture of the CRANK mark? I see the Cam Sprockets, the Oil Pump Sprocket - the damned Balance Shaft Sprocket - but no pic of the Crank. How can you say he's ON without that pic?

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-2G.html

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1996 Models
 

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When I was looking at the crank, I couldn't find a timing mark on the sprocket itself. I found the one that it is supposed to mate up to. The dowel pin in the crank is right at 3 o' clock (as in the attached diagram). I looked all over the sprocket trying to find a mark but there was none as far as I can tell.
Assuming that the timing is correct. What should I do to try and get the car started? I will make sure I have spark, fuel, and compression. Any other ideas?
 
Originally posted by SpoolinGSX
When I was looking at the crank, I couldn't find a timing mark on the sprocket itself. I found the one that it is supposed to mate up to. The dowel pin in the crank is right at 3 o' clock (as in the attached diagram). I looked all over the sprocket trying to find a mark but there was none as far as I can tell.
Assuming that the timing is correct. What should I do to try and get the car started? I will make sure I have spark, fuel, and compression. Any other ideas?

I took the key on the crank and pointed it to the left ... 9 o'clock ... I think that's how it's supposed to be.
 
You have to line up the cam marks using a straight edge (ruler, anything perfectly flat) across the ENTIRE length of BOTH gears.

If it is not PERFECT, you will be off at least one tooth.

Pull your valve cover and make sure you didnt bend any valves before you try to crank it over again.
 
Well I rechecked and found the timing mark on the crank sprocket, and it is dead on. I checked as best as I could with the limited space with the straightedge across the cam gears, and they look good.

At this point I was going to do some testing with my multimeter on different ignition devices, i.e. transistor, primary/secondary coil, etc. Then check for spark on all cylinders. Then I was going to turn my fuel pump on via dsmlink and check for pressure with my fuel pressure gauge. After those I suppose I would do a compression test.

leet, even if i did pull my valve cover and the cams. How would I check to see if valves are bent considering there would still be spring pressure? I would have to pull the head to remove the springs, in which case I could just look at the valves.
 
It was fairly obvious (for me at least) when I bent all 8 exhaust valves. All the rockers were laying in the bottom of the head. All the shafts were not perfectly straight.
 
Well I discovered my TPS sensor was missing the metal clip to hold in on. So it is possible to easily disconnect it, and with my loud exhaust cause a lot of vibration that could be part of the problem.
More importantly though, I checked in my fuse box and the 20 amp fuse labeled Engine was busted. Well maybe its a fusible link, either way that is the fuse for the injectors...
So that would explain the no starting as far as I can tell. There may be other factors as well. My concern is really, what caused this to break. Considering it could be a number of things I have some testing to do, but most likely its some short to power or ground.
 
Well let me explain a little more about the car. I am running 650 fuel injector clinic injectors. I have been running them for maybe 6 months. I am not really sure what the resistance they have is, compared to the stock injectors. I can find that out tomorrow with my multimeter. I am also running DsmLink.
So after replacing the fuse that blew, I turned the key to the on position to run dsmlink. The program could not connect with the ecu. I tried connecting my autoxray to see if could even see the car. No luck there. Then I looked around and noticed all my gauges that were powered through splices into the ecu were not lit up, and that my profec was also not lit up. This started to worry me, I was thinking that maybe the injector resistance was too low and that the ecu blew something before the fuse went out.
I checked the resistor pack for the injectors, and came up with 12.1 ohms. I had no idea what pins to check so I just used all the possibilities. That gave me 12.1 repeatedly as far as I can remember. If anyone has a spec for this resistane let me know, as well as which pins to check.
Then I swapped my stock ecu back in to determine whether the ecu was at fault or if it was some open circuit in the harness maybe. When I put it back in, the results were the same. So I am thinking the ecu is ok (I also opened it up to inspect for any visual burns and there were none).
At this point my plan was to go wire by wire with the harness testing the resistances I suppose. I am not sure if the manual has those values or not. If anyone has a link to that or could post the values it would really help out.
Any additional insight would be awesome. It just feels like there is always something else with these DSMs.
 
So I did some more voltage testing, and things were turning out good so far. I found that my o2 sensor wire got caught in between the bellhousing and the engine. It was touching the metal and shorting from there. I am in the process of fixing it, I will report back with any more problems.
 
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