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| Newbie Forum: Beginner/newbie/general DSM modification questions. First mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. Probationary Members must limit their tech posts to this forum and sub-forums. |
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06-12-2012, 12:17 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Randleman, North Carolina
Registered: Sep 2007
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Removing driver side motor mount?
So im doing a timing belt job. My first one.  And im wondering is it absolutely neccesary to jack the motor up with a wooden block against the oil pan to support the motor as i remove the mount? Or do i need to jack up the motor so the mount will be able to come out? Sorry for the newb question. Im working on gravel in my driveway thats why im asking.  Thanks in advance for your replys.
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06-12-2012, 12:21 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman

From: Columbia, Missouri
Registered: Aug 2004
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You will need to completely remove the motor mount. A jack with a wooden block will work perfectly fine. You don't have to jack it up much. It is really just there to support the engine while removing the mount. Once you get the mount removed you will need to remove the studs that hold the mount to the bracket so that you can get the middle timing cover off without breaking it.
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06-12-2012, 12:33 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Randleman, North Carolina
Registered: Sep 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanwheat
You will need to completely remove the motor mount. A jack with a wooden block will work perfectly fine. You don't have to jack it up much. It is really just there to support the engine while removing the mount. Once you get the mount removed you will need to remove the studs that hold the mount to the bracket so that you can get the middle timing cover off without breaking it.
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thank you thank you thank you, Is it okay to support the motor like this for a couple days? Cause its about to rain for the next few days and im gonna be working on it while it isnt raining. If i get a good 4x4 piece of wood to press against the pan and a good flat 2x6 to lay under the jack. Would it be okay to sit for a few days with the engine supported by the jack... you think?
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06-12-2012, 12:59 PM
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Proven Member

From: Portland, Oregon
Registered: May 2008
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Not a big deal to leave it on the oil pan. Just make sure you check on it intermitently while your not doing anything with it. Some jacks bleed down over time. There should be a wiki for timing belt swaps. Just make sure you follow the directions and have the balance shafts, cam sprockets etc in phase. The first time I did a timing belt on these I short cutted the back side block plug/ screw driver step and my balance shafts were out of phase. Do it by the numbers your first time.
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06-12-2012, 01:10 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman

From: Columbia, Missouri
Registered: Aug 2004
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IT won't hurt anything to just remove the jack. There are 3 other mounts holding it in there.
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06-12-2012, 01:23 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: madison, Wisconsin
Registered: Dec 2010
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bleech! Balance shafts!
I am sorry I just don't see the point of redoing the balance shafts. Just eliminate them. Especially on a modified DSM. To me the feel like a liability. Also makes replacing a timing belt much easier.
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06-12-2012, 01:25 PM
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Proven Member

From: Raliegh, North Carolina
Registered: Sep 2008
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Like Bryanwheat said. It will be fine. Your only jacking the engine up a little to allow you to remove the motor mount and bracket. After that you can remove it until you go back to working on it. The tranny, front and Rear roller mount will be more than enough to support it after the drivers side mount is removed.
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06-12-2012, 01:29 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: madison, Wisconsin
Registered: Dec 2010
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Use two nuts locked against each other to remove the studs that mounts the motor mount to the block.
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06-12-2012, 01:34 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Randleman, North Carolina
Registered: Sep 2007
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Thanks guys. All this info is helpfull indeed.  I love the dsm community nothing but people trying to help. Alright now on to my next question. How the hell do you remove the crank shaft pulley bolts? Everytime i try to remove the bolts the motor turns over. Is there something im missing here.
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06-12-2012, 01:39 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Probationary Member

From: Buffalo, New York
Registered: Jun 2012
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Timing belts are fun  Take your time, its easy enough. There's a handful of great how to's as well! Good luck!
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06-12-2012, 01:40 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman

From: Columbia, Missouri
Registered: Aug 2004
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Use a 1/2 inch ratchet and extension to hold the center bolt and you can easily remove the 4 bolts holding the balancer on. If you are replacing the balance shaft belt also than you will need to remove the center bolt also. That can be removed by placing a breaker bar with socket on it, laying the breaker bar against the lower control arm and tapping the key. The starter turning the engine over will be enough force to loosen the bolt.
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06-12-2012, 01:44 PM
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Proven Member

From: Randleman, North Carolina
Registered: Sep 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanwheat
Use a 1/2 inch ratchet and extension to hold the center bolt and you can easily remove the 4 bolts holding the balancer on. If you are replacing the balance shaft belt also than you will need to remove the center bolt also. That can be removed by placing a breaker bar with socket on it, laying the breaker bar against the lower control arm and tapping the key. The starter turning the engine over will be enough force to loosen the bolt.
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Thanks again. I figured thats how i was gonna have to do it. Well looks like im going to have to call a friend to come help me out on this one.  I should have known i was gonna need a friend.
Another question to throw at you guys. How do i take the tension off the a/c belt tensioner? I feel like such a newb.
Last edited by TurboTsiThatFly; 06-12-2012 at 03:34 PM.
Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping
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06-12-2012, 11:21 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman

From: Columbia, Missouri
Registered: Aug 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboTsiThatFly
Thanks again. I figured thats how i was gonna have to do it. Well looks like im going to have to call a friend to come help me out on this one.  I should have known i was gonna need a friend.
Another question to throw at you guys. How do i take the tension off the a/c belt tensioner? I feel like such a newb.
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Loosen the 2 bolts that hold the bracket on and then loosen the 1 tension bolt.
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06-13-2012, 10:54 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Randleman, North Carolina
Registered: Sep 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanwheat
Loosen the 2 bolts that hold the bracket on and then loosen the 1 tension bolt.
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Thanks bryanwheat your a huge help in all this. I got all the components off. My question now is it okay to crank the car with the crank pulley removed and the water pump not moving? Cause I have all the accessory belts off. And the timing belt covers off. Is it going to be okay to start the car with all that stuff off? Or should I put the crank pulley back on then start it?  the reason I have to start the car is too find an oil leak. Thanks again in advance.
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06-13-2012, 11:27 AM
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Proven Member

From: Spokane, Washington
Registered: Oct 2011
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Yes it is ok to start it for a short bit, I just replaced my belt and just to make sure it was timed right i started it like that, your perfectly fine.
____________________________
Power in the making
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06-13-2012, 03:25 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Randleman, North Carolina
Registered: Sep 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by natural laser
Yes it is ok to start it for a short bit, I just replaced my belt and just to make sure it was timed right i started it like that, your perfectly fine.
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It might take more than a lil bit to find the oil leak. lol Should i bolt the crank pulley back on before starting it. I dont want the timing belt slipping off.
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06-13-2012, 03:31 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman

From: Columbia, Missouri
Registered: Aug 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboTsiThatFly
It might take more than a lil bit to find the oil leak. lol Should i bolt the crank pulley back on before starting it. I dont want the timing belt slipping off. 
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You definitely want to bolt the crank pulley back on before starting it. The pulley is what holds the belt from walking off the crank pulley. Make sure that there are no hanging wires or hoses around the belt that could be pulled in. Don't let the car run for more than a few minutes without the water pump turning.
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06-13-2012, 03:38 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Randleman, North Carolina
Registered: Sep 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanwheat
You definitely want to bolt the crank pulley back on before starting it. The pulley is what holds the belt from walking off the crank pulley. Make sure that there are no hanging wires or hoses around the belt that could be pulled in. Don't let the car run for more than a few minutes without the water pump turning.
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Thanks bryanwheat you are the man..  I figured i needed to put the crank pulley back on. And im only going to run it long enuff to find my oil leak and then she'll be cut off. Another question i assume that i need to put the motor mount back on too be able to run the motor??
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06-13-2012, 03:45 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman

From: Columbia, Missouri
Registered: Aug 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboTsiThatFly
Thanks bryanwheat you are the man..  I figured i needed to put the crank pulley back on. And im only going to run it long enuff to find my oil leak and then she'll be cut off. And i assume that i need to put the motor mount back on too be able to run the motor??
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As long as the nothing is touching the strut tower area than you should be fine without putting the mount back on. I would spray the timing side down with some brake clean to get all the oil off before trying to find the leak.
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06-13-2012, 03:50 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Randleman, North Carolina
Registered: Sep 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanwheat
As long as the nothing is touching the strut tower area than you should be fine without putting the mount back on. I would spray the timing side down with some brake clean to get all the oil off before trying to find the leak.
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Thanks again man. I got all of it cleaned really well. If i knew how to upload pic from my smart phone i would upload my progress pics.  Thanks again. All i need now is some oil and starting the motor up. Wish me luck guys.
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06-13-2012, 10:41 PM
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Proven Member

From: Canton, Ohio
Registered: Apr 2012
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Goodluck and let us know what the leak is. No problem in being a noob either. Think of it in a way that if you werent to come ask and find out the proper way to take off a motor mount, timing/accessory belt, or just wondering about starting your car, it could've cost you the motor if your timing were to slip. Always good to ask.
____________________________
Nick
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06-15-2012, 08:29 AM
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#22 (permalink)
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Probationary Member

From: Jacksonville, North Carolina
Registered: Jun 2012
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Some advice to doing this. I just did mine. Open the side up so the cover is gone and belt is exposed. Mark the belt and pullies with a paint marker. Also mark the block and pullies so you can realign everything when you go to put it all back together. I would also do the CPS while its open. Once CPS is back in transfer marks on old belt onto the new belt. then reinstall and align all marks so that everything goes back in Exactly as it came out. Thats about the easiest way to ensure its all the same when done. Good luck
I just realized you are done with this but maybe someone else searching will see what I posted for some help
Last edited by Family XJ; 06-15-2012 at 08:33 AM.
Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period
Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping
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06-19-2012, 02:50 PM
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#23 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Randleman, North Carolina
Registered: Sep 2007
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Okay so I have another question. Is it okay to crank the car over with the (cps) crank position sensor and the (cfs) cam fluctuation sensor both unpluged? So I can prime the oil system over? Or is there another trick to doing this?
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08-04-2012, 06:20 AM
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#24 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Randleman, North Carolina
Registered: Sep 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanwheat
Use a 1/2 inch ratchet and extension to hold the center bolt and you can easily remove the 4 bolts holding the balancer on. If you are replacing the balance shaft belt also than you will need to remove the center bolt also. That can be removed by placing a breaker bar with socket on it, laying the breaker bar against the lower control arm and tapping the key. The starter turning the engine over will be enough force to loosen the bolt.
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Bryanwheat quick question buddy. How do I keep the crank from spinning when I tighten the crank pulley center bolt back down? Lmao seems like a dumb question but I'm stumped. Thanks for your help.  I haven't got to work on my car much lately.
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08-04-2012, 06:35 AM
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#25 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman

From: Columbia, Missouri
Registered: Aug 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboTsiThatFly
Bryanwheat quick question buddy. How do I keep the crank from spinning when I tighten the crank pulley center bolt back down? Lmao seems like a dumb question but I'm stumped. Thanks for your help.  I haven't got to work on my car much lately. 
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If you have a manual transmission than you can put the car in 5th gear and have someone hold the brakes. If you are an auto than you will need to pull the dust shield from the bottom of the transmission and hold the flex plate with a pry bar.
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08-04-2012, 06:57 AM
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#26 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Randleman, North Carolina
Registered: Sep 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanwheat
If you have a manual transmission than you can put the car in 5th gear and have someone hold the brakes. If you are an auto than you will need to pull the dust shield from the bottom of the transmission and hold the flex plate with a pry bar.
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Bryanwheat your the man.  Thanks for all your help. I really appreciate everything you've helped with. And I have a manual trans. So ill have to get my cousin over here to hold the brakes and put the trans in 5th gear.
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08-07-2012, 06:57 PM
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#27 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Randleman, North Carolina
Registered: Sep 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanwheat
Use a 1/2 inch ratchet and extension to hold the center bolt and you can easily remove the 4 bolts holding the balancer on. If you are replacing the balance shaft belt also than you will need to remove the center bolt also. That can be removed by placing a breaker bar with socket on it, laying the breaker bar against the lower control arm and tapping the key. The starter turning the engine over will be enough force to loosen the bolt.
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What if you turn the key and the battery doesn't have enuff juice to break the bolt free? I get in my car and turn the key and its like nothing happens. I hear the syrater try but its like its stuck. And its not my starter cause I can take the breaker bar off and the starter will work. Lmao do I need to throw my charger too the battery?
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08-07-2012, 07:25 PM
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#28 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman

From: Columbia, Missouri
Registered: Aug 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboTsiThatFly
What if you turn the key and the battery doesn't have enuff juice to break the bolt free? I get in my car and turn the key and its like nothing happens. I hear the syrater try but its like its stuck. And its not my starter cause I can take the breaker bar off and the starter will work. Lmao do I need to throw my charger too the battery?
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If the starter doesn't have enough power to break the bolt loose than the battery is too low.
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08-07-2012, 07:40 PM
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Supporting Member

From: Janesville, Wisconsin
Registered: Mar 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Family XJ
Some advice to doing this. I just did mine. Open the side up so the cover is gone and belt is exposed. Mark the belt and pullies with a paint marker. Also mark the block and pullies so you can realign everything when you go to put it all back together. I would also do the CPS while its open. Once CPS is back in transfer marks on old belt onto the new belt. then reinstall and align all marks so that everything goes back in Exactly as it came out. Thats about the easiest way to ensure its all the same when done. Good luck
I just realized you are done with this but maybe someone else searching will see what I posted for some help
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Why would you need to mark anything like this when there are VFAQs and timing marks for a reason?? I suppose you could use a paint pen to color the timing marks to make them easier to find.. Which blows my mind that noone has linked that yet..
OP: This should be of some help man.. Timing Belt VFAQ
Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboTsiThatFly
What if you turn the key and the battery doesn't have enuff juice to break the bolt free? I get in my car and turn the key and its like nothing happens. I hear the syrater try but its like its stuck. And its not my starter cause I can take the breaker bar off and the starter will work. Lmao do I need to throw my charger too the battery?
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Are power tools not an option? If the batter is dead you can always smack the wrench with a hammer. Or could just charge the battery for half hour or so..
____________________________
Tom
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