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wb issues!!lean?theres no way!!

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camas90gsx

10+ Year Contributor
234
0
Jul 16, 2011
seaside, Oregon
I installed a aem uego today that i bought from a local guy and im having issues.Ill start off with my mods-evo3 16g,evo3 exh mani,evo3 o2,wally 255,2g maf unhacked,evo 560's,264-272 cams,3 inch tbe(no cat) and other mods that would have no bearing on this issue.When i start the car it reads 14 for the first 10 seconds then goes up to 18 then-----red.Then when i am driving in 3rd gear at 3000 rpms its at 14.9-17 ish,if i let off the gas the wb goes to way rich for a second then back up to 18 then ----red at idle.The higher i rev the engine the lower the number(richer)it gets??It seems like the readings are backwards.I honestly thought that when i installed the wb it would read rich and i would have to do some tweaking to lean it out.Honestly the wideband is so all over the place that there is no way to make sense of it.There is a leak between the turbo and manifold that im battling that is there but not huge by any means.I welded the bung in about 3 feet back from the turbo.I dont know,im lost??? The only way to get any reading is to revv the s**t out of it,then it goes to stoich!! Any help would be most appreciated.
 
No i sure dont

And i had link before and i had to sell it to help pay for my rebuild.I had the exact same mods before i sold my link and i was running rich.I honestly think that maybe the sensor might be bad but hope that the guy didnt sell me a wb with a bad sensor.
 
Whats the WB do while the cars idling with your foot off the gas and the car warmed up? It should cycle around 14.7:1. The movement of AFR's during idle, and normal cruise conditions, are the result of the front o2 sensor trying to maintain a stoich mixture.

If you're driving and start slowing down (foot off the gas) and it goes to "---" then thats normal as well, its called coasting fuel cut. Something your ECU does when the throttle position switch closes and your RPM's are higher than 900, unless you adjust it with some sort of EMS.

Whats the WB display when you are going WOT and into boost through the entire RPM band? The AEM won't show anything richer than a 10:1 AFR, so if its locked at 10:1 then you're going extremely rich during WOT...

:dsm:
 
When i let off the gas while driving it goes to rich 10-11 for a second then goes up to 18 then ---- at idle when stopped.If im warmed up and the car idling at 8-900 rpms its at lean all way ----red.If im sitting still with the car in neutral and rev it up to 3000 rpms it goes from ---red lean up to 14.9 quickly then back to all the way lean---red when i let off.
 
Maybe bad 02 Sensor?? Or your set up is wack!! :hmm:

Wait what does it read when your car is shut off?? :talon:
 
Basically the more gas i give it and the higher boost i get the richer it reads.When i had my other wb hooked up it read completely the opposite.The less throttle i would give it the richer it would be and the more boost and throttle the leaner it would be but it would stay pretty close to the 14 range either way.
 
I have similar mods on my 2g & was having similar problem just a few days ago with the same AEM WB. I couldn't find anything wrong after checking everything out MANY times.

I have ECM V3, and after reading in here for about a week, I found I had to go into ECM link where I had logged & displayed the WB, and literally enter min & max lambda values for it to work & log correctly. My car wouldn't stay in closed loop, I wasn't able to give it more than about 50% throttle.

I entered the values & also adjusted the small adjustment screw on the back of the gauge itself (it should say P0 through P6 a believe depending on which version WB you have). Hugh difference for me anyways. From having the front O2 not doing anything to having it cycle the way it's supposed to made all the difference in the world.

Good luck man.
 
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Oh yeah,maybe my set-up is whack!! I cant believe i didnt think of that.What would the best solution to a whack set up?

It appears that it is set on P0 but the way it reads it could be p3 as well.If you look at the back of the gauge you'll see what i mean.I guess i could mess with the calibration but i dont think that would do anything.If i still had link it would make this alot easier.The wierd thing about this is that my car is running amazing right now.When i got link originally my car was semi lean in the 16-17 range and there was definate signs like backfiring etc.. If i was to guess i would say if anything its running a little rich,especially at idle and low rpm but more stoich at med to high boost but i could be wrong thats the problem.If i had the cash i would pick up link,but i figured i would get another wideband before i got link again.
 
If the WB displays "---" at idle then you've got a bad enough exhaust leak that the sensor is getting a bad AFR reading OR you have a bad vacuum/boost leak. Whats the vacuum (in/Hg) on your boost gauge during idle and what cams do you have in the car?

Fix your exhaust leak that you mentioned and do a boost leak test, doing this will fix your whack ass car.

:dsm:
 
Oh yeah,maybe my set-up is whack!! I cant believe i didnt think of that.What would the best solution to a whack set up?

It appears that it is set on P0 but the way it reads it could be p3 as well.If you look at the back of the gauge you'll see what i mean.I guess i could mess with the calibration but i dont think that would do anything.If i still had link it would make this alot easier.The wierd thing about this is that my car is running amazing right now.When i got link originally my car was semi lean in the 16-17 range and there was definate signs like backfiring etc.. If i was to guess i would say if anything its running a little rich,especially at idle and low rpm but more stoich at med to high boost but i could be wrong thats the problem.If i had the cash i would pick up link,but i figured i would get another wideband before i got link again.

When you turn your key on, look at the gauge. It will do it's start-up routine, which will include what position you have it set to. It will say P0 or Pwhatever just before your ratio comes up.
 
Ill go out and check what the display says when i turn the key in a second.The leak between the exhaust housing and manifold is not bad but maybe it could cause that.I am waiting on a new 7cm gasket in the mail then ill fix the leak.When i had my old wb the leak was worse and the readings were way more stable until the sensor went bad and it read fully rich no matter what.Is it possible that the sensor is just bad? I really cant afford to buy another sensor right now so i hope not but this wb is just so erratic.The vaccum reads at 12-13 in idle at 850-950 rpms. I just went out and checked and it says VO6 then P00
 
If the WB displays "---" at idle then you've got a bad enough exhaust leak that the sensor is getting a bad AFR reading OR you have a bad vacuum/boost leak. Whats the vacuum (in/Hg) on your boost gauge during idle and what cams do you have in the car?

Fix your exhaust leak that you mentioned and do a boost leak test, doing this will fix your whack ass car.

:dsm:

What he said.

But I would consider getting a afpr since you have a wally 255.
 
Bigger injectors 750cc-1000cc, afpr and dsmlink, oh and ditch the stock maf go speed density.:thumb: To bad your selling it.:(
 
Ill go out and check what the display says when i turn the key in a second.The leak between the exhaust housing and manifold is not bad but maybe it could cause that.I am waiting on a new 7cm gasket in the mail then ill fix the leak.When i had my old wb the leak was worse and the readings were way more stable until the sensor went bad and it read fully rich no matter what.Is it possible that the sensor is just bad? I really cant afford to buy another sensor right now so i hope not but this wb is just so erratic.The vaccum reads at 12-13 in idle at 850-950 rpms. I just went out and checked and it says VO6 then P00



The P00 means that you have it set at 0, the default setting. If you get a really small standard (micro) screwdriver, you can change on the back of the gauge itself just under where the smaller (4 prong) plug goes, you'll see a small hole. I don't know if your car will react like mine did, but give it a shot. I set mine at P4 & it made a big difference.

Setting the min & max lambda made big difference as well & I know you're unable to do that now, but try the different P settings & see if it helps. There was a definite difference between all the settings on my ride that was instantly noticeable.
 
:confused:Ok i took it out for a rip and its reading 11.9 to 13.5 wot at 14lbs.Cruising at 25 mph in 3rd gear it reads 17to----red until i let off the gas then it drops to green at 10.3-10.5 then back to fully lean ----red when i stop.Im just not quite sure what to do at this point,i did a blt a week to 10 days ago and there was only 1 little leak by the tb as far as vacuum i dont know.When i decel and come to a stop it will go down to about 5-600 rpms and fade a bit then surge to 1200 then after 10 seconds it will settle back down to 850-950 but it does it more when cold than hot.Where to go from here???

Yeah i wish i still had link but i dont.For now i just like the 2g maf-560 combo.I have a gm maf and was going to try that out with translator v2 but wanted to get a wideband first since my old one crapped out.But in my situation right now i wont put anything else into this car unil this is resolved.I went out and tightened up my ehhaust mani to the point that the leak is virtually gone and it made no difference.Is is possible the sensor is just shot? Oh and i have 264-272 cams to answer the earlier question
 
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I think you have to have the full version of link to run sd, is this true?

I would definitly get link. Best invention ever.

No you don't need full version of link to run SD thank goodness.
Camas you need to get some logs going so you can see what's going on forsure then post it so we can see it.Just need to shoot for 11.1 a/f at wot with your setup.
 
No you don't need full version of link to run SD thank goodness.
Camas you need to get some logs going so you can see what's going on forsure then post it so we can see it.Just need to shoot for 11.1 a/f at wot with your setup.

Found that out after posting. Just read up on it.:ohdamn:
I agree of the log or vid of whats its doing.
 
Well i drove to work and back this morning which is a 80 mile round trip and basically if i hold it steady at 10-12 lbs of boost at 65mph it will go between 11.5 and 12.3 and hold there until i let off then it hovers between 14-15 and when it starts to decel it goes to 18---.Then if i cruise at 2500-3000rpms in any gear it hovers between 15.5-17 then if i throttle it the wb gets richer and if i let offf it goes leaner.I put on my 1g maf for curiositys sake and drove around the neighborhood and it did the same thing in idle but if i would throttle it it went extremely rich then hover between 14-15.I was able to boost to 10lbs but it wouldnt boost anymore than that amybe because the pipe between the bov and snorkel came unhooked or it was just maxed out.It smelled slightly like gas when i got back home and if i would rev it sitting in neutral it would go to extreme rich then back to 17 lean and die,it would idle just fine if i didnt rev it high though.I dont know man,i have a new fuel filter im going to throw on just for shits and giggles and see if that does the trick.I really need an afpr right now i think.If anybody local has one for cheap or trade i have some parts i could spare.Money is really tight until friday this week unfortunately otherwise i would just pick up an afpr since i need one anyway with the wally 255.The car really does seem to be driving great and pulling really hard,thats what makes this confusing.Definately no signs of being lean at all.IDK??
 
Yeah i know man,you can buy afpr's all over and i'll probably order one or pick one up at a local shop on friday if i dont find a private seller locally before then.Fortunately they are fairly inexpensive but unfortunately im really strapped this week due to personal matters.It doesnt help that i've thrown about 5,500$ into my dsm in the last 6 monthes and totalled my 03 maxima a few weeks ago as well.LOL...Shouldve gone with the lower deductible man!
 
Yeah i know man,you can buy afpr's all over and i'll probably order one or pick one up at a local shop on friday if i dont find a private seller locally before then.Fortunately they are fairly inexpensive but unfortunately im really strapped this week due to personal matters.It doesnt help that i've thrown about 5,500$ into my dsm in the last 6 monthes and totalled my 03 maxima a few weeks ago as well.LOL...Shouldve gone with the lower deductible man!

just take it to english. they are right there on NE Dresser Road LOL
 
just take it to english. they are right there on NE Dresser Road LOL

Ehh,yeah possibly.They did my exhaust and wally 255 install a while back.I'm picking up a afpr online from summit for a good price.I am buying a maf-t v2 as well this weekend so i dont know if a trip to english is in the future quite yet,unless i cant get the tune straight myself.If i was getting link again i would probably hit up p.s.i. or english for a tune,but im waiting until summer to decide if i want to go high horsepower.Im just looking to have a ballsy d.d. for now and enjoy having my car actually driving for a change.After throwing a rod and going through a 3 month nightmare with a mentally challenged so called mechanic to get my car running this seems like the best choice.My stella is quite the little beast as she sits,if only i could get this a/f thing figured out! I am going to the guys house who sold me the w/b to try another sensor to rule that out,if it isnt the sensor maybe hooking up my gm maf and maf-t v2 might get things a little more stable since i can atleast account for bigger injectors and maf.The afpr might do wonders as well.Its just a process of elimination from here i guess.Atleast it seems to be running great though!!
 
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