The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Wideband O2

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

GRace

10+ Year Contributor
147
2
Jan 25, 2011
Joplin, Missouri
I have a thermal muffler on order and I will be having a custom 3" turboback installed in a couple of weeks. I also plan on getting Ecm Link soon after. Do I need to have two extra O2 sensor bungs installed in the downpipe or is there any way to run a single wideband sensor to both ecmlink and a gauge?
 
I have the AEM wideband sensor. It reads on the gauge and has a wire to connect to your ecu for logging. Im sure the others have the same setup.

So does it have like a spliced connection where the sensor connects to the gauge? Is it something that has to be specially ordered?
 
I have my Innovate LC-1 taking the place of the stock O2 sensor, all I did was run the proper wire to the ECU and enable narrowband simulation in Link. There's also another wire to run to the gauge that you'll be using.
 
I have my Innovate LC-1 taking the place of the stock O2 sensor, all I did was run the proper wire to the ECU and enable narrowband simulation in Link. There's also another wire to run to the gauge that you'll be using.

Sorry to sound ignorant but do the widebands come with a sensor with two plugs to run a wire to the ecm and to the gauge or a single plug on the sensor to the ecm, then from the ecm to a gauge?
 
If you are getting ECMLink v3 then the narrow band simulation is done via Link itself internally. You only need to have your wideband hooked up to the ECU to log.

Personally, get yourself the Innovate MTX-L. I'm running one and love it so much better than the LC1. There are only 5 wires total to connect. Power, ground, head light dimmer, analog out 1 (0-5v logging), analog out 2 (0-1v would use for NBS if you don't have Link). The outputs are fully configurable and so is the display on the gauge from the AFR range to the range at with the LED changes from green, yellow, and red. The gauge is the controller and is easier to work with.

Here is mine.
[video=Innovate MTX-L wideband]191[/video]

AEM gauges are less accurate and less responsive than the Innovate setup. Not being able to calibrate and not able to read anything lower than 10:1 AFR is a F- on that report card.
 
I think I will be going with the Innovate MTX-L. It's only about $30 more than the lc-1. I have just one more question, to log the wideband in ECMLink, I can put the WB O2 sensor in the stock bung and then run the new cable to the gauge, then the output wire from the gauge to the ecm? So this just leaves the stock o2 sensor plug unplugged in the engine bay and link takes care of the rest?
 
I think I will be going with the Innovate MTX-L. It's only about $30 more than the lc-1. I have just one more question, to log the wideband in ECMLink, I can put the WB O2 sensor in the stock bung and then run the new cable to the gauge, then the output wire from the gauge to the ecm? So this just leaves the stock o2 sensor plug unplugged in the engine bay and link takes care of the rest?

Correct but wire the wideband signal wire (brown on a LC-1, not sure what colour on a MTX-L) to the EGR input on the ECU and splice your gauge feed in that same wire. Then tell ECMLink to simulate narrowband and your set.
 
You would hook the yellow wire on mtxl to Ecu. They changed the wire color around on mtxl, yellow is wideband and brown is narrow. Also why use egr input when you can just tap the o2 input, since your using link to simulate narrow band. You can take out both front and rear stock o2 sensors, put wideband gauge in front bung and plug the rear one. This opens up two inputs on ecu to log a sensor.
 
You would hook the yellow wire on mtxl to Ecu. They changed the wire color around on mtxl, yellow is wideband and brown is narrow. Also why use egr input when you can just tap the o2 input, since your using link to simulate narrow band. You can take out both front and rear stock o2 sensors, put wideband gauge in front bung and plug the rear one. This opens up two inputs on ecu to log a sensor.

That's what I was just thinking. I would cut and splice the stock o2 wires for power and signal and not worry about removing another input for wideband.
 
As the wideband o2 sensors get old their calibration gets thrown off, Innovate widebands can be recalibrated. I currently have 1 in my 89 starion and another in 2jzgte IS300, no problems
 
If you are getting ECMLink v3 then the narrow band simulation is done via Link itself internally. You only need to have your wideband hooked up to the ECU to log.

Personally, get yourself the Innovate MTX-L. I'm running one and love it so much better than the LC1. There are only 5 wires total to connect. Power, ground, head light dimmer, analog out 1 (0-5v logging), analog out 2 (0-1v would use for NBS if you don't have Link). The outputs are fully configurable and so is the display on the gauge from the AFR range to the range at with the LED changes from green, yellow, and red. The gauge is the controller and is easier to work with.

Here is mine.
[video=Innovate MTX-L wideband]191[/video]

AEM gauges are less accurate and less responsive than the Innovate setup. Not being able to calibrate and not able to read anything lower than 10:1 AFR is a F- on that report card.

Car a little low on gas buddy?? :p

Also why does the guage take so long after startup to begin displaying a reading on the gauge?
 
I run a PLX and no stock o2's with no problems. I've done this since v2 and it has a wideband signal for datalogging and a narrowband signal for your ecu. It also auto calabrates and tells you if the sensor goes bad.

And all you had to do is splice the wideband to the existing O2 sensor harness and that's all? No using another ecu input for wideband?
 
You are still using the front o2 ECU pin doing what you described. Just tapping into the harness in the engine bay instead of in the cabin.
 
You are still using the front o2 ECU pin doing what you described. Just tapping into the harness in the engine bay instead of in the cabin.

I haven't had a chance yet, my muffler should ship out this week and I get ECMLink this Wednesday. I also found out I have n/a pistons in my motor, very surprising since I'm running at 14psi...I'm sure some datalogging will shed light on how it's been running.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top