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Talon Still WONT shift

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stealth13

10+ Year Contributor
136
0
Oct 10, 2008
calgary,
My car still will not shift into any gear while running, while it's off it shifts.

I drove the car to friends house (fairly hard since the car was shifting horribly). He dropped the trans and changed my throwout bearing. Once it was put back together it doesn't shift at all when running. I changed the master/slave cylinders still no luck.

Suggestions please?
:confused:
 
i would say try the pressure plate. i had the same problem with my old gsx and went through the same thing changed the throw out bearing, slave ,and clutch master and still didnt. we ended up putting a new disc pressure plate and flywheel and shifted fine after that til the wife wrecked it :cry:
 
Anyone else have any input? Car's just sitting there and I want to get it fixed but don't know what to do
 
Same thing happen to me. I had to reinstalled everything AGAIN CAREFULLY and it worked. My slave, master, pivot, everything was fine.
I wouldn't dish out buying new parts. Make sure your master is pushing enough fluid for your slave via clutch adjustment and adjust the switch also. Many people would say pivot ball but that's not completely true. My pivot ball was brand new and I still had that problem.
 
Okay, well here's the thing, I watch the fork and its moving 75/80 percent out of 100. As in 100 is a working system.
 
Here's my thread

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/395057-car-no-gear.html

When I checked my fork it was moving all the way. If it pushed it more towards the clutch it would only moved like 1 inch till it hits the tranny case. I installed a new pivot ball and new act flywheel. The only thing that was reused was the disc cause it was still good. I checked everywhere and I couldn't find an answer on google.
I had no choice but to redo the job again. the only thing I notice was that the clutch disc fin's or what ever you called those didn't rise up like a mountian, instead it was kinda of sloped or flat. Will I did everything CAREFULLY and when I put it back on I DIDN'T BLEED THE CLUTCH because I had a stainless steel clutch line so it don't really need bleeding.(preference in my part so nobody get mad over what I said)
For some weired reason it just worked!
 
The same thing happened to my shep tranny about a year or 2 ago. Since I live only about 40 mins away from him I took it down to his shop and he fixed the problem within 2 days. It ended up being this one part inside the transmission. I can't remember what it was called. It was something I have never heard of before. I know its probably not much help but I would take it to a tranny shop and have them take a look at it. If it's not any of the things already mentioned I would probably guess its some part on the inside of the transmission.
 
Did you get an extension rod when you bought the new slave cylinder? That might get you to 100% movement. I had a similar problem that ended up being a broken clutch fork but he would have most likely noticed that when he had the tranny out...
 
Dont do an extension rod thingy. It's a band aid fix only. It's covering up the real problem. If all else fails you'll have no choice but redo the whole job carefully.
You still have to make sure your master and slave is pushing enough fluid.
 
Not sure if it was mentioned but.. have a friend watch the clutch arm on the tranny as you push the pedal. Had a friend with the same prob.. he tried everything till i suggested that.. came to be that the pedal assembly was worn out...
 
Check pedal for bushing wear. If you can push the pedal down a few times and let it go, if you can lift the pedal UP AT ALL, then its ## bushing. You then have to remove the clutch pedal and I reccomend welding it.
 
Bleed the clutch and bleed it some more. I had air in my line and that happened ,but if you cant even grind it then you got bigger problems

only gear that it will attempt to even grind is reverse. the other 5 I push and it doesn't try and go in.
 
Pull it in or out with the car on and adjust as you see fit....Eventually it will go into gear. I had this problem with the reverse gear.
 
Last edited:
Check for clutch fluid leaks at the master and slave cylinders. Also, get a straight edge and check your pressure plate for warp. You can quickly crank walk a motor w/ a warped pressure plate if you continue to adjust your clutch. If the clutch is in good repair, you're looking at a syncro issue or busted shift cables. Shift cables will rarely need to be adjusted from what they are at the factory. Also, the arms on the transmission that shift the gears differ from year to year and must match the shift cables that went with the transmission or else you've fubar'd the geometry in which it needs to work properly.
 
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