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Broken Valves

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Ghost_92TSi

10+ Year Contributor
1,046
0
Aug 18, 2009
El Paso, Texas
OK there is alot of history of bad behind this car but I want to address the main issues/concerns I have.

I had a non turbo 4g63 engine in the car and according to my (retarded and now fired) Mechanic, who was the idiot that put a non turbo stock motor in my car claiming it was a Turbo block, It stopped working when the turbo Seized due to a crack in the turbo that was mixing my coolant with exhaust. The car sat FOREVER while he was working on it feeding me lies after lies. The problem was "fixed" and he returned my car.

It ran 'good' for three days, he put a ridiculous amount of oil into my car and I don't know why. The only problem I had was the idle dropping and swaying in the low rpms when i was stopped. He said it was the TPS, that is was stuck from sitting and may loosen up, is this correct? I was taking it slow with everything, and on the fourth day I get in to start it it runs for a minute and dies while i was setting my radio, putting seat belt on, etc.

Pull the VC and plugs (Cy. 1 was smashed by a broken valve and piston shattered) and cy 3 piston had a broken valve in it. (both exhaust valves)

I pulled the motor and disassemble to have it machined honed etc. (This is when I noticed it was a non-turbo block and the parts that I payed for were really just painted (poorly) black to make them appear new.

The block's bearing and everything were trashed. So I decided to go with a new motor.

I bought a crate motor and dropped it in. The same thing happened though. The car ran for about a minute and then stopped. This time an exhaust valve in cy. 4 broke and smashed my spark plug. It looked like two other exhaust valve in 3 and 1 were cracked also (possibly). I returned the motor because it had a warranty and they said it was a "manufacture defect" and sent me another one.

The question I have is there anything else that might be affecting the motor and bending valves. Could the CAS be doing this? I didn't do an exact check with it I just lined up the marks you could see from the screws that had it mounted before.

I want to double check with you all before I drop this motor in and have another failure.
 
ANother thing you gatta check; Did you remove your cams? if so you probably have to bleed your lifters, otherwise they fill with oil and when you torque your cams back down the valves stay open a little, happened to me once but i turned the engine by hand a little before I cranked it and found it.
 
I don't believe a "stuck" TPS would have those symptoms. If you have an oscilloscope, turn the key to the ON position and backprobe the TPS signal and go from closed to WOT and look at the pattern for glitches. You can also use a meter but it won't tell you whether or not you have a glitch; just voltage at closed throttle and transitioning to WOT.
 
I received a new motor, I dropped it in and today I went to start it and it broke a exhaust valve again in cyl. 4. What could possibly be making these valves break on two completely different rebuilt motors?
 
I pumped the oil into the block by hand from the pump until the oil came out from the head, and then cranked the motor with the starter with no plugs and no fuel, shouldn't this pump the lifters? The motors both came from a crate motor place with the timing belt and everything already put together. It had a warranty so, I touched as little as possible in order not to void.
 
The lifters should be completely bled when firing it up for first time. Means you pull the cams out, pull hte lifters, install them in a vice to compress, then re-install. THEN you can fire the motor up.
 
You might want to reconsider where your getting these engines from. I know if you keep going this route your bound to get one that is working right. The question is will it last after the warranty has expired? Then your back at square one again. I don't know your financial situation but if I were you I would spend the money on good after market parts and find a mechanic that you can trust and have the engine built the way you want it.
 
Yea, well they are sending another motor once again I'm pretty sure, after they inspect it. I have a local shop owner who has a couple of dsm's and an evo come look at it tommorrow and will probally be doing the work for me. Also talked about tearing it apart and replacing the headgasket, etc. Thanks for the video by the way. Wish someone posted that before I attempted this time, and I would of checked it.
 
The lifters should be completely bled when firing it up for first time. Means you pull the cams out, pull hte lifters, install them in a vice to compress, then re-install. THEN you can fire the motor up.

That's not the right way to do it. You may actually damage them doing it that way. You just push a paperclip or similar object in the hole and then they will push right down with basically no force.
 
Yea, well they are sending another motor once again I'm pretty sure, after they inspect it. I have a local shop owner who has a couple of dsm's and an evo come look at it tommorrow and will probally be doing the work for me. Also talked about tearing it apart and replacing the headgasket, etc. Thanks for the video by the way. Wish someone posted that before I attempted this time, and I would of checked it.

I feel for ya. I was about to call my head done (never built/worked on a DSM before) when I stumbled across the video...needless to say, all my lifters were rock solid, after doing this to each one - they were mush and all my valves traveled together like they should.
 
This guy needs to cut his fingernails, what are his thumb nails especially long for picking up bolts? Gasket scraping maybe? Or jsut right out more dexterity.

Good video but jesus.
 
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