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Newbie Forum: Beginner/newbie/general DSM modification questions. First mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. Probationary Members must limit their tech posts to this forum and sub-forums.

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Old 05-29-2009, 11:09 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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removing harmonic balancer 420A


i need tips on how to remove my harmonic balancer(crankshaft pully)

i tried using a hb puller, not luck. tried breaking it off, by beating the living piss out of it with an air hammer as well as a regular hammer, still no luck. should i try heating it? any other suggestions would be great. i have a new one already so i dont care if i destroy it or not just need it off so i can drive again

or if you know any other way to get to a water pump on a 1999 eclipse 420a let me know.


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Old 05-29-2009, 12:47 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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Yes heat it, but be careful. Someone will probably freak and say NO HEAT. Theres a front main seal right on it that can fail if it gets super hot. Dont get it glowing red but heat will help.

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Old 05-29-2009, 04:17 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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I wouldn't heat it due to the rubber insulator ring in the balancer. At work I usually take the crank bolt out, shoot some GOOD* penetrating oil in the keyway slot, then tap around the outside of the balancer with mallet to loosen things up. This works every time for me.




*Not WD-40. Try PB Blaster, BG In-Force, and there are a few others that I don't have access to. OEM Toyota Rust Penetrant is also VERY good but expensive.

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Old 05-29-2009, 04:40 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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You rented a Chrysler Harmonic Balencer Puller from Autozone. 60 bucks holding fee and you get it all back when you return it.

Good luck getting it off with or with out heat. We used some mapp gas and heated the pulley up until we thought it was hot enough. then we weged a nice thick bar into one of the 3 holes in the pulley and wedged it between the pulley and the frame. we put the other side on a jack stand so it wouldnt move on us. then we wedged a small socket into the crank bolt hole (not recommended if you DONT plan on replacing the crank, or block, but i replaced the block) and we put the long rod into the hole and into the crank puller and tightened it up like hell. it slowly came off, after several tries and several reheats of the pulley. once it came off we told it what we thought of it. IT WAS THE HARDEST PART OF THE ENGINE REBUILD

Last edited by Defiant; 07-15-2009 at 09:12 AM. Reason: "U" is not "you".
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Old 05-29-2009, 05:08 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1timehondalover View Post
I wouldn't heat it due to the rubber insulator ring in the balancer. At work I usually take the crank bolt out, shoot some GOOD* penetrating oil in the keyway slot, then tap around the outside of the balancer with mallet to loosen things up. This works every time for me.




*Not WD-40. Try PB Blaster, BG In-Force, and there are a few others that I don't have access to. OEM Toyota Rust Penetrant is also VERY good but expensive.
Lol, yep this is what we do at Lexus too.
Might want to take off those four bolts(420a?) that hold it on too...that'd help.

Last edited by Defiant; 07-15-2009 at 09:12 AM.
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Old 05-29-2009, 05:14 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #6 (permalink)
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DO NOT HEAT THAT! it is more then one piece. and it will destroy/weaken your part. not to mention that ALL your most important pieces of you motor to make it operate are right there!! that piece is held togaether by a real tiny ammout of sealant/rubber etc. take some PB blaster or WD-40 and soak them for alittle be pacient. aso take a screw driver and put it on the bolt head and give them a few taps to maybe loosen some dirt/grime

put some muscle in it will ya
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Old 05-29-2009, 05:15 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #7 (permalink)
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Might want to take off those four bolts(420a?) that hold it on too...that'd help.[/QUOTE]

Haha. Yup
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Old 05-29-2009, 10:42 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #8 (permalink)
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The 420a harmonic balancer is an interference fit to the crank snout, with one bolt to keep it in place.

Just rent the "Chrysler Harmonic Balancer Puller" from autozone or wherever, and use that. Do not use a conventional 3 jaw puller. The Chrysler puller will work without the risk of heat. Penetrating sprays will do nothing to help here, interference fit and all. Extremely simple job with the proper tool.

Post 420a specific questions in the 420a Bolt-On Section to avoid the mess of inaccurate replies in the future.


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Old 07-14-2009, 01:49 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #9 (permalink)
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Since you keep saying 420a, im assuming there is a different way/method/tool for 4g63? if so can you help me out? thanks.
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Old 07-14-2009, 01:51 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #10 (permalink)
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You or a friend have a steering wheel puller to suffice? Autozome maybe?
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Old 07-14-2009, 03:39 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98DropTop View Post
Since you keep saying 420a, im assuming there is a different way/method/tool for 4g63? if so can you help me out? thanks.
For the 4g63 you can simply remove the 4 bolts and give the pulley a gentle whop with a mallet.


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Old 07-14-2009, 04:40 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Locke View Post
For the 4g63 you can simply remove the 4 bolts and give the pulley a gentle whop with a mallet.
to be honest you really don't even need to do that most of the time. just the 4 bolt give it a pull.
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Old 07-14-2009, 06:46 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #13 (permalink)
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Yup on the 4g63 the pulley will fall off after removing the four bolts. The the 420a ALWAYS use a proper puller, or on any car with an interference fit dampner. I have a cheap puller I got at Harbor Freight and it works great! You have to remember the puller saves possible damage to things like the crankshaft thrust bearing, oil seal, crankshaft sensor, etc. Goodluck, and I just returned a valve spring compressor to Advanced auto parts, their rental service is great, its free if you remember to return the tool with-in three months.
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Old 07-14-2009, 06:57 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #14 (permalink)
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Yea, a special, three claw puller to go through the slots on the pulley itself, then the center push bolt in the middle..

Like a glorified steering wheel puller ...

Yea, the 4G37's and 63's - even with three bolts out and you have already began to loosen the 4th one, it seems that the pulley wants to fall in your hands..
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Old 07-14-2009, 08:53 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #15 (permalink)
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nice, I like the sound of that.. Thanks
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Old 07-14-2009, 09:29 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #16 (permalink)
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The pulley on my 1g was stuck every time I attempted to remove it, but it fell off with a tap. Different environments and conditions I suppose, though. YMMV.


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