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1G Engine Rebuild

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tindall2006

15+ Year Contributor
98
1
Dec 26, 2006
Huntsville, Ohio
I have been searching and searching but still trying to decide what I want to do.

I have a 91 eagle talon TSI AWD, It is stock right now minus a boost guage, MBC (not currently hooked up) and a 3" Turbo back exhaust.


Recently the engine started knocking really bad (I am 98 percent sure that it has a spun rod... or four) So I am looking into doing a rebuil. I am already assuming that I need new pistons, rods and a crank. Possibly a new block too. PLus all of the other rebuild neccesities, gaskets, water pump oil pump and all of that other stuff that really adds up.

My questions is I am torn between three options. My goal for this car is a low 12 second quarter mile. Maybe 11's someday.

So, Should I go fo a 2.3 stroker? Go with a 2.0 with forged rods and pistons at a 8.5 ratio, OR should I go with a stock rebuild with 8.0 pistons (or maybe 2g pistons?)


Give me some pro's and cons, and some options. Money is kind of an issue, so the more expensive I go, the longer the car will sit. I just want something that can be "reliable" and push out a little bit of power.
 
Any fresh rebuild is gonna feel real good. To go 12's and 11's w/an AWD you wont have to build such a motor as a stroker.

1g rods and 2g pistons work great.

and ofcoarse anything forged.
 
I just put some Mahle pistons with Eagle Rods, Arp studs, ACL Race bearings and bS elimination kit, new oil and water pumps into a block. The machine work on the block cost me $700 and took 6 months.
My $G63 project is stalled awaiting a CNC Ported 1G Head with SS 1mm OS Manley race tulip undercut valves, Manley Springs, Titanium retainers, Ferrea Manganese Bronze valve guides. I will be using a Cyclone dual runner, fully ported JDM intake manifold. An MSD dual channel TPS/RPM switch connected to a 12V solenoid will activate the butterfly valves. I will use some kind of smaller twin scroll turbo hooked up to my dual 3" Ram air intake system. Have not decided on the FMIC and piping yet. Got the Racing aluminum radiator in, solid motor mounts all done. Gates Kevlar timing belt, adjustable HKS camshaft sprockets, Blox camshafts 272's, Billet Aluminum fuel rail hooked up to an OBX FPR. FIC 650cc Fuel injectors. Custom heavy duty axles, this is a FWD rig. 255 gph Walbro fuel pump with heavy duty wiring installed. What else? Four maxed out credit cards and I haven't even thought about the suspension and exhaust. Oh! Forgot about the $1500 I just stuck into the body kit and paint. Windshield mysteriously cracked in half all by its self. $400. Oh yeah! Lightweight flywheel, cannot decide on which twin disk clutch to get, Have no idea if the thing will actually ever fire up. But its my hobby now. Use to take my boat out fishing on Lake Michigan and nearly did a George Clooney perfect storm thing, so I thought building a fast car would be safer. I started my project two years ago and I still have not reached the halfway point.
ARE YOU SURE YOU WANT TO REBUILD YOUR $G63?????:beatentodeath:
 
Yeah, i am thinking stock rebuild, 2g pistons unless if I find a really good deal on some forged pistons and rods.


I think they money I save by going witha stock rebuild will be enough to get a clutch and 16G turbo and I think stock with 2g rods will support the power levals I want.

Big advantage is being a mechanic and being able to do the work myself minus the machine work.
 
I just put some Mahle pistons with Eagle Rods, Arp studs, ACL Race bearings and bS elimination kit, new oil and water pumps into a block. The machine work on the block cost me $700 and took 6 months.
My $G63 project is stalled awaiting a CNC Ported 1G Head with SS 1mm OS Manley race tulip undercut valves, Manley Springs, Titanium retainers, Ferrea Manganese Bronze valve guides. I will be using a Cyclone dual runner, fully ported JDM intake manifold. An MSD dual channel TPS/RPM switch connected to a 12V solenoid will activate the butterfly valves. I will use some kind of smaller twin scroll turbo hooked up to my dual 3" Ram air intake system. Have not decided on the FMIC and piping yet. Got the Racing aluminum radiator in, solid motor mounts all done. Gates Kevlar timing belt, adjustable HKS camshaft sprockets, Blox camshafts 272's, Billet Aluminum fuel rail hooked up to an OBX FPR. FIC 650cc Fuel injectors. Custom heavy duty axles, this is a FWD rig. 255 gph Walbro fuel pump with heavy duty wiring installed. What else? Four maxed out credit cards and I haven't even thought about the suspension and exhaust. Oh! Forgot about the $1500 I just stuck into the body kit and paint. Windshield mysteriously cracked in half all by its self. $400. Oh yeah! Lightweight flywheel, cannot decide on which twin disk clutch to get, Have no idea if the thing will actually ever fire up. But its my hobby now. Use to take my boat out fishing on Lake Michigan and nearly did a George Clooney perfect storm thing, so I thought building a fast car would be safer. I started my project two years ago and I still have not reached the halfway point.
ARE YOU SURE YOU WANT TO REBUILD YOUR $G63?????:beatentodeath:


For 700 bucks you could have shipped your block to slow boy racing and had them do the machine work...

I would do a little more homework on machine shops for the next build
 
Yea your stock will support it. But think stock is heavy forged is light. So if you go forged you'll have less rotating mass. Therefore more power. Someting to just think about when you rebuild it. Less work on the engine to me if you go forged. I took the Manley route all Manley parts. I dont believe in mix matching stuff.
 
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