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New to mitsu. Few running issues.

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diatenshi

10+ Year Contributor
76
2
Aug 15, 2008
Tampa, Florida
I have a few random and intermittent issues with my GST I just picked up. I just got it last night and it is my first DSM. Sold my S14 240 to get it : P

It has a 6 bolt swap, 16g turbo, 1g rods and pistons, 650cc injectors and safc2 to name the major mods at 15lbs.

The issues I am having are it normally idles horrid, and vibrates alot, and if you would let off the clutch it would dip to 2-300 or just stall, which I am told DSM Link will fix, but just today it now idles at 2k rpm and does not seem to want to go down.

The other issue is when cruising at any speed it seems after about 15 minutes of driving, it will randomly begin to sputter if you try to accelerate at any rate. If i press the clutch in, let it drop to about 1k then let it back out, it will resume just fine. It seems to get worse the longer I drive it consecutively. Once it cools down it seems to go away.

It only seems to happen while cruising, if you lay in to boost, slow down, lay in again, it will never happen and you could do that all day long. Only after a bit of consistent speed / rpm.

Any ideas?
I appreciate the help!

Dan
 
Welcome!

2G car?

Did it throw any codes? The cruising issue sounds like a P030X.

Do a boost leak test and a set of plugs and wires. A compression/leakdown check might be a good idea. The wacky idle might be as simple a big boost leak.

People ran 650s with an AFC long before DSMlink was around. Maybe it has a light flywheel? If so that will make it want to stall and having a higher idle will help. I would figure out what is wrong before worrying about getting link.

You might want to look at doing a timing belt if you don't know when it was done.

Seth
 
Hey man, thanks for the reply. Yeah, shes a 2g. 95. As for codes, I am not sure how to check them yet, just got her last night. Is it anything like nissan and the codes are displayed on the ECU in lights? I will have to look up how to do an actual boost leak test. I am not sure if it is a boost leak since it seems to hit 18 with no problem and pulls like a raped ape, but this is my first turbo car, so I am not sure how a leak would feel. The guy I bought it from handed me a coupler and said "you may need this" though. It has 10,000 miles on a fresh rebuild as well as a rebuilt tranny. Here is a list of mods.

"95 mitsu eclipse evo 3 16g turbo greddy small fmic with greddy ic piping greddy type s bov thermal r&d 3" turbo back exhaust no cat 6 bolt swap 1g rods and pistons 650cc injectors walbro 255lph fuel pump lancerman built tranny with a quaife full limited slip act 2600 clutch mitsubishi 3000gt 16x8 wheels with g force tires k&n fipk, ported exhaust side of turbo and ported o2 housing turbo xs manual boost controller h&r springs kyb shocks front and rear solid strut tower bars SAFC2 autometer a/f gauge and boost gauge brand new paint"
 
use obd II scanner for your codes, you will get some numbers then look for the chart on here that will tell you what each number means, enjoy.
 
Any codes should turn on your check engine light. The 2G cars are OBD2, the only way to get the codes is with some sort of code reader. Your light should come on with the key in the on position but the engine not running. If not, the bulb is no good or it has been hacked. If the car pulls pretty good you probably have more issues than just a boost leak, but it is a good idea to do a test anyway.

Plugs and wires should be on the to do list along with the boost leak test.

Some people over run the stock fuel pressure regulator with a 255. Elevated base fuel pressure and 650s will make your car idle really rich. An aftermarket adjustable fuel pressure regulator might help.

At the top of the page there is a search menu, go there and put in "boost leak tester". You can use either the google version or the old school "search forums" version. I really like the old search better but google rocks too. In search forums you can search whole threads or just titles. You will get something like this:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/search.php?searchid=5126826

Besides this site here is another good one:

VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered Questions

You should invest in a data logger if you are planning to wait a while for DSM link. You can adjust fuel with the AFC but you have no way of telling what is going on without a logger. A wide band o2 sensor would help too but a logger really helps.

Seth

I forgot, fill out your vehicle profile too. That way you won't have to keep telling people what has been done to your car.
 
I forgot, fill out your vehicle profile too. That way you won't have to keep telling people what has been done to your car.

Thanks alot man, I will be sure to try the plugs and wires tonight or tomorrow. I got alot of vaccuming and washing to do to get that new paint looking good again, the last owner didnt care too much, even though he is the one who painted it, hah.

I will see if and where I can get a FPR locally, I dont think it has one. It pulls like a beast at 18lbs. Feels strong as hell. Keeps up close with Kawasakis : P

I will see what I can do for a data logger too. Any idea how much all that will cost roughly? No idea what a logger or a FPR will run. It will not effect much other then idle will it?

As for the profile, I had created an account yesterday and filled all that in and such, but never got the email to activate the account, so I made another one today, and didnt fill it in yet.

Dan
 
i got my logger setup for 140 bucks, 125 for pocketlogger and the cables and i found a compatible palm on ebay for 12 bucks :rocks: my car is still pretty much stock but i love having the logger as its helped me figure out many problems so far. even though its pulling good i'd still do a leak test, mine was running fine for the most part but had alot of leaks that seemed to affect the normal driving but not WOT. as for spark plugs make sure you use the regular NGK plugs. NO PLATINUM no matter what they try to sell you. make sure theyre gapped right. you might even need a colder plug than stock with your mods? and as previously stated if you dont know when the timing and bs belts were last changed do them ASAP.
 
and as previously stated if you dont know when the timing and bs belts were last changed do them ASAP.

I will call the fella who owned the car before me, hes the one who had it rebuild 10k miles ago, and had porting done and things like that, arp studs. I would imagine he changed the belts and things like that too, but I will want to double check!

I will see about boost leak testing tomorrow, I will do some reading up on it when I get home from work.

Thanks again everyone : D
 
New developments.


All belts and everything was replaced. from the water pump to the timing belt.

Now, I am having more issues though. My idle keeps raising up to 2k no matter what I do. I first noticed the throttle cable was loose, it was not attached to the bracket correctly, the 2 nuts were both on the same side of the bracket, so letting it idle I adjusted the cable so that it sat at around 850-900 rpm because any lower it would vibrate the exhaust a tiny bit. As I drove it though, the rpm kept idling higher and higher.

I pulled over and adjusted the cable a bit to lower it back down. All was well, for a bit, then it went back up to 2k!! So I adjusted it again just before I got home, and it was back to 1500 rpm.

Another thing that suck about that, is if I cruise at a constant speed / rpm for say 5-6 seconds it will start to randomly misfire it seems, or sputter if you try to give it any gas at all. I would press clutch in and let the rpms drop to 900 and then it would be fine and I could continue on, well since it idled at 2k I was not able to let it do that, I would have to keep pulling in to a turn lane, keep it in 5th, slow down almost enough to make it stall, then pop back in to first and make my way back in to traffic to fix it : \

It sure is starting to give me a bunch of hassle. Mix that with the electrical issues it started having, and we have our selves a fun time in 95 degree heat just after it rains so the humidity is so thick tape wont even stick.

Mix that with the fact I am 99% sure I have a decent boost leak, since if I full boost it, it will hit 18, then kinda stay at 14.

I was out just trying to get a damn hair cut, after all that, I got there at 5:05 and they close at 5....
 
These problems can be difficult to diagnose especially without a code. I would look for post throttle body boost leak, clean you throttle body, check your throttle position sensor and idle speed control. Search on this sight for "high idle" or "idle surge".



Seth
 
Good news, I am getting everything fixed, including the AC, and getting dsmlink which will fix my stuttering issue and will fix alot of things im told, in trade for a PS3.

Work is being performed by the guy who actually originally did the build on the car and owns a DSM shop. : )

He told me he can get me up from 18 to 22lbs no problem with everything done to it :D. I am excited : P

Cant wait till wednesday.

P.S. Incase anyone has the same issue.

The issue with my misfiring at cruising speeds is coming from a 7bolt to 6 bolt swap. It has to do with coming from a crank and cam angle sensor to going to what ever is different on the 6 bolt, you have to duplicate the signal when you swap it?? Mostly it comes down to with out DSMLink the ecu gets confused because of the differences or changes in the signal when you go to 6 bolt. He called it "Multi cylinder miss fire".
 
its all got less then 10k miles on it though ?

I am going to be pushing 22lbs and I want it to still be decent to drive. It would be piece of mind too since I dont trust safc.
 
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