New to dsm's and having problems

[PhenomGSX]

I bought a 97 GSX a couple weeks ago. Im in high school and this is my first car, i love it, but im having some doubts on its condition. The guy i bought it from did some work on the engine, as far as i know or believe, he put on a td05h 20g turbo, 3" exhaust, and an Injen Cold Air Intake. I had to remove the boost controller he had put in because it was cheap and made the car overboost horribly for the stock block (30+psi at times). My problem is this: when i get into the boost and it hits 10psi + the ecu causes the engine to start cutting out, or so ive been told thats what it is. The guy i bought the car from told me to buy a new MAF translator and sensor but i do not want to spend $350 on parts that may even ruin the engine by making the fuel even more lean. Any advice? (keep in mind im not entirely knowledgeable in mechanical jargon).

 

[DSM_PWR]

Try a boost leak test, if it feels like it boggs/hitting a wall at certain RPM's then it could just be a loose Intercooler pipe
IC Pipe Tester

other than that do you know what kind of fuel mods have been done?

My advice is invest ina logger, will save you alot of time/money in the long run

 

[kingjust]

I bought a 97 GSX a couple weeks ago. Im in high school and this is my first car, i love it, but im having some doubts on its condition. The guy i bought it from did some work on the engine, as far as i know or believe, he put on a td05h 20g turbo, 3" exhaust, and an Injen Cold Air Intake. I had to remove the boost controller he had put in because it was cheap and made the car overboost horribly for the stock block (30+psi at times). My problem is this: when i get into the boost and it hits 10psi + the ecu causes the engine to start cutting out, or so ive been told thats what it is. The guy i bought the car from told me to buy a new MAF translator and sensor but i do not want to spend $350 on parts that may even ruin the engine by making the fuel even more lean. Any advice? (keep in mind im not entirely knowledgeable in mechanical jargon).

1. What are you using for boost control, because it seems you took out the only thing that could control your 30psi spikes. Put it back on and close it down and see where your boost hits... Question, got a boost gauge?

2. If he is running a 20g, he is probably overrunning the injectors and pump, well, at 30psi. Turn the boost down, get some better injectors and a pump, maybe translator, but save up for "LINK".

3. The maf translator isn't going to fix your "cut off" problems because the supporting mods are not there. Like in 2, get some injectors, pump, fuel pressure regulator, and something to tune fuel with... this is to tune safely and is a minimum, IMO.

4. Very very important, being that you bought it from someone else, who could just bullshit you with what he did, do your maintenance. IE... Timing belt (both of them), fliuds (engine, TX case, tranny, rear diff, coolant)... not needed but nice to do, alignment, check your balljoint boots, brake pads and rotors if needed... then begin on your road to DSMastery!!!

5. Good luck!!!

KJ

 

[PhenomGSX]

1. What are you using for boost control, because it seems you took out the only thing that could control your 30psi spikes. Put it back on and close it down and see where your boost hits... Question, got a boost gauge?

2. If he is running a 20g, he is probably overrunning the injectors and pump, well, at 30psi. Turn the boost down, get some better injectors and a pump, maybe translator, but save up for "LINK".

3. The maf translator isn't going to fix your "cut off" problems because the supporting mods are not there. Like in 2, get some injectors, pump, fuel pressure regulator, and something to tune fuel with... this is to tune safely and is a minimum, IMO.

4. Very very important, being that you bought it from someone else, who could just bullshit you with what he did, do your maintenance. IE... Timing belt (both of them), fliuds (engine, TX case, tranny, rear diff, coolant)... not needed but nice to do, alignment, check your balljoint boots, brake pads and rotors if needed... then begin on your road to DSMastery!!!

5. Good luck!!!

KJ

My grandfather has been a mechanic for about 30 years but doesnt know much about turbocharged imports being in the area we're in. He suggested that rather than buying expensive parts we should remove the boost controller and just let the turbo run at factory settings. It doesnt quite hit 30 psi now unless i hold the pedal to the floor, which was an improvement. Also, the guy we bought the car from is a friend of his, i dont think hed bullshit me personally because he lives right down the street , but theyre reluctant to offer any help apart from "If you give me the big turbo ill give you a smaller one."

As for the fueling mods, i know there is a new fuel rail, but the injectors are still stock i think. They had some big ones in but they were putting out way too much pressure. Im finding out more about it little by little, i just dont want this thing to break down on me before i even get to college. Fast and fun car .

Thanks for the tips though, im going to look into the mods and maintenance work

 

[Black95awd]

My grandfather has been a mechanic for about 30 years but doesnt know much about turbocharged imports being in the area we're in. He suggested that rather than buying expensive parts we should remove the boost controller and just let the turbo run at factory settings. It doesnt quite hit 30 psi now unless i hold the pedal to the floor, which was an improvement. Also, the guy we bought the car from is a friend of his, i dont think hed bullshit me personally because he lives right down the street , but theyre reluctant to offer any help apart from "If you give me the big turbo ill give you a smaller one."

As for the fueling mods, i know there is a new fuel rail, but the injectors are still stock i think. They had some big ones in but they were putting out way too much pressure. Im finding out more about it little by little, i just dont want this thing to break down on me before i even get to college. Fast and fun car .

Thanks for the tips though, im going to look into the mods and maintenance work

you NEED bigger injectors and a pump for the 20g..... the "pressure" there were putting out was because you dont have anything to tune with, get an AFC or DSMLink. if you choose not to run your MBC make sure the vacuum line is run to the WGA.

 

[2gdanny]

+1

for the 20g you need bigger injectors then the stock ones a fpr and a fuel pump the 3 most inportant parts in the fuel system.
i might have some things that you can use and would help you
greddy 720cc densos injectors
a 255wlb fuel pump"you would need the install kit"
frp witrh gauge
and i could cut my afc neo that i dont even look at it anymore becouse i got dsm link.
just so you can get a basic reading on the fuel/air
pm

 

[Ryn1727]

It sounds like when you pulled off the boost controller you didn't put anything else on to control the turbo so you deff need to do what Black95AWD said. The turbo doesn't have a factory "cut off" point, you need to have pressure to the wastegate in order to stop the turbo from putting out more and more air. Easiest thing you can do "and what I did when my boost controller broke" is just run a vacuum line from the one spot the boost controller was connected to to the other spot it was connected to "should be from the pressure source to the wastegate". That way once the turbo starts up the wastegate will open at its default psi and it wont let your turbo keeping spinning faster and faster.

 

[PhenomGSX]

It sounds like when you pulled off the boost controller you didn't put anything else on to control the turbo so you deff need to do what Black95AWD said. The turbo doesn't have a factory "cut off" point, you need to have pressure to the wastegate in order to stop the turbo from putting out more and more air. Easiest thing you can do "and what I did when my boost controller broke" is just run a vacuum line from the one spot the boost controller was connected to to the other spot it was connected to "should be from the pressure source to the wastegate". That way once the turbo starts up the wastegate will open at its default psi and it wont let your turbo keeping spinning faster and faster.

yeah i didnt explain right, that is what we did. We removed the controller from the system but connected the rest back together. We took the wastegate off and tested it with a pump and found that it opens up completely at about 16-18 psi yet for some reason im still over boosting

 

[PhenomGSX]

So anyway, i have a 255 wlb fuel pump already i guess, and i can aquire some 780cc injectors for free aswell as a high flow fuel rail and an FPR. I think all i need to get is an AFC but im not sure that would fix the problem or if it would just complicate things further.

 

[99 gst spyder]

if you plan going with the afc, 780cc would be way too much for it to read, i suggest if you go with the afc, get some 550cc or 650cc.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Or...the best thing for a SAFC is a "chip" for injector compensation, then fine tune with the SAFC. But you're right, 650s-680s are about the limit for tuning with it without injector compensation.

550s would never reach the potential of a 20G.

 

[Rippinstock]

Am I the only one concerned about the 30psi boost? Try to rerun vacuum lines to stock set up here is an awesome diagram.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-speed-shop-vacuum-diagram-removal-1g-2g.html

 

[daarkness92]

unless you already have a maf translator, make sure your blow off valve is recirculating*

 

[Shady1687]

like other fellow members said, stright up with what is happening is your hitting fuel cut. the ecu is cutting off the fuel to the engine. with your 20g turbo at high boost levels your stock fuel system cant handle it and the ecu is cutting the fuel. first off you need a bigger fuel pump and a popular pump for these cars is a walbro 255. with that pump you will need a aftermarket fuel pressure regualtor. next you need some bigger injectors. now with those addition th only way to make it run proper is some sort of fuel managemnt system; like a air fuel converter. but if you dont really no much about cars and dont no how to do the work i wouldnt recommend trying to install this stuff. first of all get yourself a good manual and do some reaserach. but if you dont care about high performance and jsut want a sporty quick car sell that 20g turbo and get a stock t25 for it and everything will run fine. iwill buy that 20g off you and i will toss in a t25 with the package

 

[pdc]

Or...the best thing for a SAFC is a "chip" for injector compensation, then fine tune with the SAFC. But you're right, 650s-680s are about the limit for tuning with it.

550s would never reach the potential of a 20G.

Threadjack -
What is this chip you speak of? I'm running 650's with an safc.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Threadjack -
What is this chip you speak of? I'm running 650's with an safc.

DSMChips or a Keydiver chip. The injector compensation is "burned" onto the chip so all you have to do is fine tune with the SAFC. I've seen people running 850s with a Keydiver chip fine tuning with a SAFC.

I personally use DSMLink, but if you do a search for both you'll find a wealth of info for it.

 

[PhenomGSX]

Ok, i dont have very deep pockets here, looking for an easy but SURE fix . I could maybe get some 680's or 650's, and an afc as well. I need to figure out whether this will actually fix the problem before i invest into it. Right now im just tryin to stay out of the boost until i get the right parts. Seems a shame to have to drive it so slow

 

[dSmgs-T]

you can find descent size injectors for around $200. personally for tuning go with Link, most will agree that its worth the money. as tempting as it is to boost the Sh!#t out of your new car just take her easy for now.

 

[PhenomGSX]

So with something like this would i be able to use the 780cc's that my friend has?
eBay Motors: DSM LINK 2G 95 - 99 DSMLINK ECLIPSE TALON TURBO 4G63 (item 160208771722 end time Feb-20-08 21:44:30 PST)

 

[dSmgs-T]

it would work like a charm, you'll also need a FPR too... around a $200 or so for everything.

 

[PhenomGSX]

I can get the FPR, have a gauge, and can get a high flow fuel rail. This should do fine then

 

[dSmgs-T]

good to go then

 

[spyderturbo007]

Is it creeping up to 30psi, or spiking?

Oh, and don't forget, if you go with DSMLink, you're going to need to get an EPROM ECU.

 

[PhenomGSX]

Is it creeping up to 30psi, or spiking?

Oh, and don't forget, if you go with DSMLink, you're going to need to get an EPROM ECU.

It spikes when at WOT for more than a few seconds. thats when it cuts out and the whole car bucks.

and i have no clue what an EPROM ecu is, but im sure its something that will cost enough to stop me from going this route -_-

 

[Shady1687]

man if you just want your car to run right and dont no much about tuning and fuel management i would just sell your after market parts and buy some used stock parts, you can put the stock injectors back in and fuel pump and get a manual boost controller and turn your boost down to like 10 psi and it will run fine.