The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

New 2G purchase with some problems

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

dsm03

15+ Year Contributor
1,171
8
Mar 4, 2007
Brandon, MB, Canada
Hey guys just picked up a '95 Talon AWD im happy that i got it because my 1g couldnt make it out yet....but ill get to the point.

the car is in very good condition everything stock except that the guy i bought it from put in an aftermarket boost gauge. Now when i try to half throttle or more it just cuts out and there is no raise in boost what so ever. I have researched a few of the forums and found out it could be a vacuum leak or some sort but i dont think there is because there is also a recent post about someone boost gauge reading below -15 and everyone said -15 -20 is what it should be at idle which my car does. need some advice if anyone can help. The guy who sold it to me said i have to remove some restrictor so that i can boost but problem is everything is stock so there is no raise. i dont see why i couldnt full throttle then??? please help thanks!
 
i got it like that i just picked it up today, it runs great it just cuts out and sort of shakes when i try to give it some throttle. it does boost because while driving boost gauge reads at about -13- 10 and when i accelerate it goes to 10 psi...dont know what the problem can be>>>
 
Yes, boost leak was my first impression on it until i read that post about the other guys boost gauge not idling properly. guess ill check that out oh and another thing is my car idles 1600-1800 rpm sometimes is that normal??
 
alright, do you guys know anything about that restrictor the guy was telling me about something like i have to remove it in order to boost to 16psi...i never heard of anything like that i always thought you could just install boost gauge and boost controller and boost to max of 16psi right off that bat without doing any other mods for extra power?? am i wrong because thats how my understanding is with reading the tech guide for beginner mods.
 
DUDE - You asked a question & 5 QUALIFIED guys took the time to answer you - Find & fix your Boost leak BEFORE you tear off Modding the thing & commence trying to blow it up - If it AINT running right NOW you don't need to pull that Restrictor - At LEAST take the time to do any kinda Search & find that Mod on here yourself before you ask us to help you do something you should'nt be doing - YET.
 
Well, it seems your going about your new purchase all wrong. You just get the car and you're already wanting to turn the boost up past 16psi. :nono:

First of all, do as all these other people have told you and do a boost leak test. Do this at both the throttle body and turbo inlet. Here's 2 links that should help you:
IC Pipe Tester
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...se-troubleshoot-boost-leak-tester-merged.html

Next, make sure your boost gauge is installed properly. The line going to the engine bay should be teed into the FPS or FPR line and NOT the BOV vacuum line. Here's a link on how to properly install a boost gauge:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...tall-boost-gauge-gage-guage-1g-2g-merged.html

And finally, since you seem to keep asking about this 'restrictor' you want to remove, here's a thread on it:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/7696-bcs-mod-restrictor-removal-merged.html

Do ALL maintenance on the car before you do anything else to it.
 
i wasnt planning on doing that right away it was just a general question because it sounded odd...i know i need to do the whole tune up thing and everything else before i start adding more power.
 
Normally, an aftermarket boost gauge will show between 15 and 20 in/Hg of vacuum, with the average at about 18. A vacuum leak won't affect that reading much. However, a vacuum leak turns into a boost leak REAL quick, and is probably the number one cause of 50% of all DSM engine running/idling/driving issues. Just saying you "tightened all the clamps" and you're "pretty sure there aren't any leaks" doesn't mean a damn thing. The only way to fix the leaks is to do a proper boost leak test, with a proper boost leak tester and a compressor or air tank of some kind. Add a spray bottle of soapy water to pinpoint the leaks, and replace the gaskets, seals, and couplers that are leaking. Then retest. Every time you change something or remove and replace something in the intake or intercooler piping tract, do a boost leak test.

Report back the results.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 4G63 NEW Stop Tech Drilled And Slotted Rotors
    New Stop Tech Drilled & Slotted Rotors $70 + shipping and paypal fees* FITS * Eclipse GST...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G GSX/GST Manual Transmission Steel & Poly Mount
    2G GSX/GST Manual Transmission Mount (Steel & Poly) $45 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 1991 tsi AWD auto engine harness
    Looking for a engine harness for my 1991 eagle talon AWD tsi auto trans If anyone has one hit...
    • sanmantsi72
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1997 eagle talon tsi
    I have a 1997 eagle talon tsi fwd auto for sale. It has 108k miles and in good condition.Recent...
    • El_marto
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 PARTS
    Cleaning out my shop closet, Buyer covers shipping & fee.Parts:.20 Over Turbo 6-Bolt Block...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top