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Need some help with what to do now that I have two dead engines.

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archimense

Probationary Member
1
0
Jun 18, 2007
Coquitlam,
I bought a 1997 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD with 55,000 miles on it.

Two weeks later discovered it had really bad crank walk.

Got really mad.

Bought a 1991 6bolt JDM motor with "25,000 miles" on it from a Galant VR4 with the big turbo. Came with transmission, transfer case, oil cooler, ECU, wiring harness, turbo, etc for $1500.

Paid to have a shop do the swap cause I wanted to make sure things were done right.

Did the swap, timing belt, clutch, balance shaft removal, coolant pump, stainless clutch line, etc. Basically all of the goodies you can do without opening the engine.

I sold the transfer case, tranny, and head off of my 2G engine to recoup some money.

500 miles later the brass fitting for the oil pressure sender snaps and spews out all of the oil in the middle of rush our traffic.

Crank bearings are dead, crank shaft has aluminum bearing material melted to it, but the head and cam bearings are fine.

Got really mad again.

So now I have a 7bolt block that crankwalked, and a complete 6 bolt engine with a seized block and a good head.

:beatentodeath:

Anyone have any advice? Buy another used engine, rebuilt the 6bolt block? Rebuild with stock parts or upgraded ones?

:cry:
 
Well it depends what you want the car for. If you just want a daily driver and occasional weekend racer. I would just go ahead fix the 7 bolt block and use the head that it had. You can go ahead and build it stock, just put a thicker head gasket, ARP head studs things like to toughen it up a bit.

If you want power, and plan on racing your car more, then just build the 6 bolt with upgraded parts. These are just my two cents.
 
Bummer you sold that 2g head. Now you are almost stuck with the 6 bolt. But since you already went through the hassle of the 6 bolt swap, it would be pointless to go back anyway. I would go with rebuilding the 6 bolt. Unless you plan on going into some crazy boost, you can also stick with stock parts. The stock engine is actually pretty stout.
 
The place you bought the 6-bolt should have a warranty on it right? If it does then you what to do; if it doesn't then you have to rebuild the 7-bolt and mix and match the 6-bolt head. Or even sell the shell, keep the compatible goodies and buy a 1g awd which is probably cheaper then your "JDM" 6-bolt of that GVR4.
 
The place you bought the 6-bolt should have a warranty on it right? If it does then you what to do; if it doesn't then you have to rebuild the 7-bolt and mix and match the 6-bolt head. Or even sell the shell, keep the compatible goodies and buy a 1g awd which is probably cheaper then your "JDM" 6-bolt of that GVR4.

I agree with meliketoball more on the rebuild part though :D a proper rebuild should give you that security you want.
 
The place you bought the 6-bolt should have a warranty on it right?

They wont warranty it because of an aftermarket part that was installed failed.

If using a brass fitting to adapt an aftermarket oil pressure sender, you need to remotely mount the sender....it is too heavy for the brass, and vibrates alot. Your best bet is to get a steel fitting.....I learned the same way, but luckily mine broke in my driveway.
 
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