BCS Info

[pwayzjellyroll]

So since tomorrow is my birthday, decided to buy myself some presents. Got an auto-meter boost and voltmeter gauge. Followed all the pictures and what not I could find and got everything installed. My boost gauge reads at 9 vacuum, and only 7 lbs of boost. Now I do not have my MBC installed yet, so I was wondering if it could have something to do with my boost control solenoid. The T-fitting from the j-pipe to the wastegate still has the tube going to my BCS, but then the part that plugs into the BCS ends there, as the other nipple that' supposed to go to the canister I believe broke off. Could that cause me to run such low boost? Or did I do something incorrectly while installing my gauge. Thoughts/feedback/ideas are appreciated.

 

[pwayzjellyroll]

O.k. well after a fairly sleepless night I decided to get up this morning and do some tinkering.

1. Ran a vac line directly from the j-pipe to the waste gate. - This should yield about 11 lbs of boost yes? I went for a drive did some pulls, still 5 psi through 1-3 seeings as I haven't gone to anywhere that I can go faster yet.. Now I knew something wasn't right.

2. Checked my gauge install, hose got crimped . Fixed that, reading 7 lbs of boost in first, and 9 in the rest of the gears.

Now the question is it a problem that I'm not hittin 11 lbs? Or is that an estimation for the j-pipe to wastegate method? Or am I lost here. I tried searching but I really didn't see anything relevant, or maybe I just searched the wrong thing.

 

[No_Skillz]

You should be kicking yourself if you haven't done a boost leak test yet.

 

[pwayzjellyroll]

You should be kicking yourself if you haven't done a boost leak test yet.

I should be kicking myself now that you mention it. I am missing the coupler for my tester so I haven't done it yet, would that give me a two pound loss of boost with the j-pipe to wastegate connection?

 

[daren_p]

Normally the turbo will try to overcome the boost leak, so with a smaller sized boost leak, you will still hit the ideal boost but you will be working the turbo harder, which is never a good thing. Now if your leak is too big for the turbo to keep up with or your turbo is on the way out, it may not achieve the desired boost level.

As for your issue, a boost leak test is always a good idea but being you have the WG hooked up directly to a pressure source 9psi is probably about right. The BCS will increase your boost a couple psi, so if it is broken &/or not hooked up correctly, you will be abit lower.

 

[pwayzjellyroll]

Thanks for the info daren, I will still go about doing a boost leak test. The other thing I was wondering is that where the tubing connects to the boost gauge, I have a feel it's crimping a bit because I'm using the nylon tube it came with. I imagine this could affect my readings even just a bit? There were major crimps that I fixed but I have a feeling this could affect it it seems like it bends just the tiniest bit. I'm thinking about getting http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/AUM3224.htm That's copper hosing instead of the nylon, I imagine this would be better seeing as it would be less likely to bend like that. Thoughts/comments on changing this?

 

[EclipseTical]

that nylon hose sucks. Copper tubing would be overkill imo.

just do what many of us have done and pick up a 1/8" NPT female thread barbed fitting ( can be found at home depot,etc) for the back of the gauge and some vaccume hose that wont collapse under boost. I picked my hose up from NAPA for like $5 i think.

 

[pwayzjellyroll]

that nylon hose sucks. Copper tubing would be overkill imo.

just do what many of us have done and pick up a 1/8" NPT female thread barbed fitting ( can be found at home depot,etc) for the back of the gauge and some vaccume hose that wont collapse under boost. I picked my hose up from NAPA for like $5 i think.

Alright, thanks for the info, by the way before I head over to home depot what's NPT stand for? So I know what to ask for.

 

[EclipseTical]

Alright, thanks for the info, by the way before I head over to home depot what's NPT stand for? So I know what to ask for.

"national pipe thread"

it's not a brand, it is a standard unit of measure.

 

[daren_p]

Yea, that nylon tubing that comes with Autometer gauges is useless. Like others have said pick up a barbed T fitting & a 1/8" NPT female barbed fitting & some nice silicon vacuum hose (most run a 4mm hose for this) This is the best way to install it & what basically everyone does. For the silisone hose, make sure you go with a descent quality hose that is designed for boost. Silicone hose isn't all created the same, I've heard of guys running hoses such as Vibrant, etc. & they don't last/don't stand up. Your best would be to pick some up from a reputable vendor, such as the sponsors on this site. Personally I've bought alot of vacuum lines & couplers from www.hightempsilicone.com They may not be the cheepest (though their prices seem more then resonable to me) but they have excellent quality.

 

[pwayzjellyroll]

So, after much running around and getting the barb fitting and vacuum hose all is said and done. While now showing the correct vacuum and 8.5-9 lbs of boost, boost leak test will come shortly. I bought a 3 to 2" coupler for this, doesn't seem to be the right size. The 2" fits on the PVC endcap but I don't think the other side will fit on to my turbo. Should I remove my canister area and put it on that end of the intake? Or does it have to be directly up to my turbo.

 

[95CarbonEclipse]

If you're still running the T25 then what you need is the 2" coupler.. it's kind of a tight fit, but is perfect.

 

[pwayzjellyroll]

If you're still running the T25 then what you need is the 2" coupler.. it's kind of a tight fit, but is perfect.

I'm running a 14b. Same concept?

 

[No_Skillz]

Same concept. Hook up your boost leak tester directly to the turbo. You don't want to be pressurizing the intake pipe since that wasn't designed to hold pressure. It sounds like you need a 2" straight coupler.

 

[95CarbonEclipse]

^^^ Yea, sorry... I didn't notice that you had a 1G

 

[daren_p]

Same concept. Hook up your boost leak tester directly to the turbo. You don't want to be pressurizing the intake pipe since that wasn't designed to hold pressure. It sounds like you need a 2" straight coupler.

I'm pretty sure the 14b has a different size inlet vs the smaller T25. I believe its the same size OD as the 16g series, which if I recall correctly is 2.25"

 

[pwayzjellyroll]

I'm pretty sure the 14b has a different size inlet vs the smaller T25. I believe its the same size OD as the 16g series, which if I recall correctly is 2.25"

Hmm, well I bought the 3"-2" coupler. the 3" was definitely to big. I guess I'm looking for 2.5? I didn't really see any at home depot or lowes, any suggestions?

 

[gsxeclipse97]

I'm pretty sure that the 16g has a bigger inlet than the 14b due to the larger compressor. If you compare them side by side you can see that the area where the compressor is its thiner than the one on the 14b.

 

[daren_p]

I'm pretty sure that the 16g has a bigger inlet than the 14b due to the larger compressor. If you compare them side by side you can see that the area where the compressor is its thiner than the one on the 14b.

Thats why I said the OD (outside diameter) was the same, not the ID. Like all 16g's, they use the same sized OD inlet but they have been machined to different ID's (inside diameters) to accomidate the different sized compressor wheels. I know the thickness of the wall for the 14b is much larger (because of the smaller compressor wheel) then the 16g series so I was assuming the OD on the 14b vs the 16g, is the same.

I'm trying to remember (its been awhile) but I think it may actually be 2.5" for the 16g series & probably the same for 14b. I think maybe its the T25 that was 2.25" & I just used the factory bushing to install my 2.5" boost leak tester.

You can get a 2.5" silicone couple from most DSM performance shops & this way you don't have to worry about a cheep rubber coupler blowing out during the test.

 

[95CarbonEclipse]

^^^ That sounds like the best advice really. I know I had to go to Home Depot like 3 different times to make my boost leak tester. I think the damn thing ended up costing me like $25 dollars after buying a bunch of different parts that I didn't use or didn't fit.

 

[No_Skillz]

Sorry about randomly posting a size. When I went to Home Depot to build my boost leak tester, I realized I didn't know what size I needed so I bought one of every size coupler. I went home, figured out the size I needed, and returned the rest.

...So basically to this day I don't really know what I'm using. Someone oughta give me negative rep points.