New setup.. what am I missing...

[Cap1]

I recently purchased an AWD '93 Talon for $1900. Currently I'm trying to hit low 13's on the 14b. But lately I've started to compile a wish list from feedback articles on this site about different parts. I've decided on a new setup and I want a little feedback on it. This car is going to be track only with the occassional Saturday Night Domestic asskicking. I'm just going to put a loan against the car to get everything I need up front and get it done.

I have now:
190lph Fuel
Buscher Racing 2.5" exhaust
NGK Wires and plugs
All gauges needed: A/F, Boost, Oil, Water
On the way:
Hallman Boost Controller
Fidanza Flywheel and 4.3 Clutch.
Getting:
KeyDiver

New Setup:
Aeromotive A1000 Fuel Pressure Regulator : -6AN
Walbro 255 LPH with Install Kit: Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-94 AWD
Precision 780cc Ball-Style Injectors : Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99
DN Performance T4 Exhaust Manifold w/ 44mm W/G flange: Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99 Turbo
Bullseye Power T04E 60-Trim : Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99
TiAL wastegate & gasket (I guess I have to go 44mm? Or should I use 44mm to 38 adapter? Which springs?)
Maybe:
BC 272 Cams

What else would I need? Any suggestions on this setup? I'm just trying to do some research before I spend this kind of money. For roughly $2k this is the setup I see the most future potential with. Any input is much appreciated.

 

[talon90awdTSi]

You better look into a good size FM kit. Also I am not real familiar with the turbo but you might want to go with 850ish injectors and I personally would go with a Mitsubishi style turbo that is easier to bolt on. I would say the 272 cams at the least. You night want to consider a set of 280's. What exactly are your plans for HP or ET?

 

[BrokenTsi]

That turbo you want doesnt require a t4 manifold. You can use the stock manifold. I would look into an fp turbo and use it with a 2g manifold. I ran mid 11's on the fp3052 with a stock 1g exhaust manifold. www.forcedpermance.net Its nice because the wastegate clamps onto the turbo itself, and you can keep your existing exhaust if you use fp's o2 housing. All bolt on.

Get dsm link too. Scratch the keydiver chip.

 

[mygsx2120]

Definately need an intercooler and hard pipes. I would also think about going bigger with the 2.5 in. exhaust for a T4 setup. 3in. all the way back will be much better suited for your goals.

 

[dsm-onster]

272s are plenty and will flatten a 60 trim. A goodset of "272s" are FP2s or brian crower's. FFWD ahs good 272 reginds for REAL cheap. I wold go this rout. Unless you want the ramp rate for idle and a little more low end response. Then, getting a set of fp2Xs would be the way to go. But, as always, you have to pay to play. A set of fp2xs require some sort of spring upgrade.

If your getting a keydiver chip burned, get the biggest injector you can for the same price as 750s. 1000cc injectors idle like a champ w/ my setup.

Don't waste your money on that A/F gauge. You won't actually have the ability to see your on-boost air/fuel ratios w/ it.

Your 2.5 inch exhaust is now a clamp.

Keydiver and anything but FP is FAR cheaper and very capable .

 

[Cap1]

That turbo you want doesnt require a t4 manifold. You can use the stock manifold. I would look into an fp turbo and use it with a 2g manifold. I ran mid 11's on the fp3052 with a stock 1g exhaust manifold. www.forcedpermance.net Its nice because the wastegate clamps onto the turbo itself, and you can keep your existing exhaust if you use fp's o2 housing. All bolt on.

Get dsm link too. Scratch the keydiver chip.

I wanted to go with a tubular manifold for increased spool time on a larger turbo, I also wanted to go with an external w/g. I'm going with this turbo instead of a FP because it's got the most potential for the price. If someone can tell me a reason NOT to go this route, please do. Like I said it's going to be a track car for the most part. Also, I'm going to use the chip at first, but will eventually be changing to DSMLink.

You better look into a good size FM kit. Also I am not real familiar with the turbo but you might want to go with 850ish injectors and I personally would go with a Mitsubishi style turbo that is easier to bolt on. I would say the 272 cams at the least. You night want to consider a set of 280's. What exactly are your plans for HP or ET?

I was going to put the 280's into consideration when I ported/polished and upgraded the head. My plans on HP is the 390-410 range. I would like to be in mid-low 12's, but I'm being modest. If possible, future goals are low 11's high 10's, but I'll worry about that when I get there to that point. Can't run 10's without running 12's

dsm-onster 272s are plenty and will flatten a 60 trim. A goodset of "272s" are FP2s or brian crower's. FFWD ahs good 272 reginds for REAL cheap. I wold go this rout. Unless you want the ramp rate for idle and a little more low end response. Then, getting a set of fp2Xs would be the way to go. But, as always, you have to pay to play. A set of fp2xs require some sort of spring upgrade.
If your getting a keydiver chip burned, get the biggest injector you can for the same price as 750s. 1000cc injectors idle like a champ w/ my setup.

So if I were to get bigger injectors and gad the keydiver setup for them, wouldn't it be overkill for this setup? I know the FPR can regulate the actual fuel but if the chip is burned for 1000cc injectors won't it adjust the timing for this? Pardon my inexperience with such a setup, my dad is a 25 year mechanic, and is going to be helping me along, along with this site. Thanks for your guy's help. Like I said if you guys can tell me why to go a different way I'm all EARS.

 

[Cap1]

I hate to contridict everything I just typed but I've gave it some thought. For $125 extra on the turbo, I can get it internally gated and use a 2g manifold like Broken suggested, thus saving ~$800 now. Possibly put this towards DSMLink first? Or a Punishment Racing FMIC? I haven't read anything about boost creep with this turbo, but I was worried mostly about the future upgrades. I suppose down the road I could always turn it into a external w/g welding the flapper shut? These are the things I'm trying to iron out before the purchase, Thanks guys!

 

[BrokenTsi]

You dont need half of that stuff for mid 12's. Increased spool time on a bullseye 60trim? How much faster do you want it to spool? That turbo is small and spools fast by itself.

My car's a 10 second daily driver. It never sees a trailer, and I drive it and beat on it every day without any issues at all. I see full boost at 5000-5100 or so, and it gets there fast, probably too fast for me.

Sounds to me like you want bolt on performance. I would seriously suggest one of the fp turbo's. Im leaning towards the 3065 for you. Awesome pump gas turbo, and makes some serious power on race gas. And it spools perfect for the street/strip. I run the same turbo, but in a t3 housing with a larger a/r with a dnp tubular manifold. I have to because it wont bolt on to stock exhaust manifold.

I ran JUST a keydiver chip and maft one season. I went solid 11's all year with it. No safc. I ran 1000cc injectors on a 14b to break in the engine, then i slapped in my turbo setup. So no, injector size wont be overkill. Keydiver chip will allow it to run like stock. You'll never know big injectors are in it. Mod it once, mod it right. Go big.

Stock head with stock valves and some good springs is all you'll need. You dont need to port these heads really. Stock valves will see 9k rpms all day, and go 9's. You'll need stiffer springs for whatever cams you want. I use comp 101200's and my 1-2 shift sees 10k rpms, and I shift at 9100ish after that.

Stock block will be fine for now. It wont blow up, if properly tuned. I ran 33psi thru the stock long block on a big turbo hundreds of times.

 

[dsm-onster]

Yep BrokenTSI is right, 1000cc injectors are fine if you have a chip or dsmlink or other ecu that has been "told" it has those injectors. It will run on the proper timing maps and idle like stock.

By getting an internal gate you'll save that $800 plus the $100 you'll save by not getting a keydiver burn. And you'll not have to buy a logger (another $100 to $150). DSMLink is excellent if you've freed up the budget for it.

Stock springs are fine for now w/ almost all 272 grinds out there. For running anything into the 11s. Once you get there, you can either rev more or pour on the boost or . . .other routes. I'd wait for those. Get them when you need them. After you've reached your low 12 sec goal.

FP seams reliable for the most part. It's just a whole lot of money. . . I agree that you get what you pay for. But it's not like a 60-trim w/a stage3 or 5 hasn't proven itself. Then again, going to a 10 sec goal is going to require a turbo that's has to take a beating. A 20g has done this and MHI reliability is top notch.. And cheaper than the FP turbos. BUT it will likely be all rung out and w/ no more potential left in it once you reach high 10s. PTE turbos are bolton and cheaper as well and have proven themselves. I think that if you're serious about going 10s then leave your self open to the option of converting your setup to a full garrett snail. You'll open yourself up to lots more options that are at least as reliable as FP turbos. And cheaper which will ofset the cost of a garret flanged exhaust manifold.