Manual/Electronic Boost Control

[bigboycsrobo]

whast beter for money wise on boost controlers manual or electronic

 

[red_devil]

Id go with a Manual controler, they are much cheaper and work great.

Electronic boost controllers tend to not hold as much boost as a manual controler, and they can be more affected by cold temps. The good thing about electonic contolers is that you can adjust boost and duty cycle on the move You can also set different boost levels for certain rpms and gears.

 

[Midnight DSM]

Manual is the best way to go. Even if you spend the $100 on the Hallman, which is what I would do. You can basically set it and forget it with the cost being like 1/4 of a decent EBC. There are a few EBCs out there that are really easy to use and you can turn up the boost with the ease of one knob. Greddy Profec B spec II is what I had before going to the hallman and I will never go back.

 

[95burgundyesi]

^^ what he said + 1

electric controlers are flashy but manuals are said to hold better at higher levels and are wallet friendly.

 

[gsxeclipse97]

but changing the boost level can be a bi*** manual ones cause you have to always get out the car and pop the hood, then go for a drive and if its not right then you have to do it again.. quite a pain in the ass

 

[matthewdesigns]

Yeah, but once you get it dialed in it's rock solid. I just spent 45 minutes doing 3rd gear pulls and logging, tweaking mine after installing my 550's. So totally worth the time and effort.

I've got a Dejon MBC and it's never failed me, and was only $50.

 

[FlyByNight]

but changing the boost level can be a bi*** manual ones cause you have to always get out the car and pop the hood, then go for a drive and if its not right then you have to do it again.. quite a pain in the ass

Or you could just get the Hallman Pro Series Evolution MBC and adjust from inside; yet still cheaper than an EBC.

 

[Talesin]

Want to keep the lines as short as possible, seen a few people with long-ass vac lines run into the cabin for an MBC, and they had huge problems with boost spike and creep. Fixed them right up by making the loop short and just mounting the MBC right next to the turbo, with less than a foot total of vacuum line.

For an AWD, an MBC is the way to go. Rock-solid performance, you set it once and it just works. Sure it takes about fifteen minutes to set it up, but then you never have to screw with it again, until you want to raise the boost or the (very simple) internals break. Generally just the spring, but that doesn't happen often.. and it fails open, so you shouldn't end up overboosting, just dropping to stock boost level.

For a FWD, an EBC can be a good investment, allowing you to launch at a lower boost level to keep wheelspin down, then switch to a higher boost level once you're already going and don't have to worry as much about traction issues.
The down side being that an EBC can be a PAIN to set up. Know a few guys who swapped to an MBC out of frustration with trying to make the damn thing work like it was supposed to. It's also an electronic piece, so it's subject to the whims of your electrical system, which can play all sorts of merry hell if you have a weak ground, or your alternator has a problem. If something breaks, there's the possibility that it may just be a glitch in the unit, making diagnosis almost impossible... other than to remove the EBC and see if the problem goes away. If they fail, they can fail closed, meaning instant overboost when your foot comes down, and potentially a popped engine.

Short version, EBCs are pretty pointless. They're rice for the cabin, if you want yet one more set of der blinkenlights. They trend toward being difficult to set up, and expensive. Stick with an MBC.

 

[Eastwood95]

MBC is the cheaper, easier way to go. Like they mentioned, Hallman makes a MBC that runs into the car that you can adjust while driving, but it lengthens the amount of vacuum hose you use. Stopping the car to adjust boost isnt as annoying as you think, you wouldn't have to do it that often once you're initially set-up.

TurboXs and a few other companies also make dual MBC's, for FWD guys who need low/high boost levels. They come with a switch you install in the cabin so you can go back/forth between high/low.

I've heard nothing but problems from people using EBC's, plus they're mad expensive. You can put that money towards something else you need.

 

[Ho0ked]

Like anything, you get good and bad reports.....

ABC's are expensive, yes
They do hold high boost if you buy the right unit.
Full blown race cars typically don't use MBC's

They are often not difficult to set up.
Having 2 data files on my SAFC II is almost useless without a EBC......
Stop, pop the hood, raise the boost, drive the car to see if the boost is where I want it, if so proceed to data log it and then print it out then re-tune the SAFC II or whatever you have. IF you had an EBC, SO much simpler...

1 time tune for 25lbs, data file 1 on the SAFC II
1 time tune for 30lbs, data file 2 on the SAFC II

So I can cruise at 25 daily, and if i come across some retard that needs to get taught the power of DSM, I can flip a couple buttons and poor on 50+ Hp


I hate my MBC........also nobody bothers to mention, MBC's are typically bleeder type valves, SO your boost is bleeding out AS you are trying to make it, causing slow boost response, and slower spool/max boost. With a EBC the boost is held until it reaches the amount you set it out, then and ONLY then does it begin to bleed pressure off

That alone is a huge difference, especially when running bigger turbos.


Plenty of EBC's hold 30 lbs+, but yes they are pricey, but ultimately worth it

 

[Talesin]

Seen enough full-track cars using MBCs. After all, it's a simple part that isn't going to break and be impossible to fix in the pits without a complete spare (even though it'd be cheap enough to keep a spare in that unlikely event), or needing to flip between two boost settings. Generally they want max power on tap ASAP.
Though, you don't see many full-track race cars using SAFCs either. Most of them are on DSMLink or AEM EMS, so the timing can be altered as well for most gain.

There are bleeder type MBCs, but the vast majority use ball-and-spring units, which only have a bleed fitting to prevent pressurelock from keeping the wastegate open after you've let off. No idea where you got the idea that the 'typical' MBC is a bleeder valve.
Even the bleeder type don't leak like you make them out to... just enough to keep the wastegate shut longer. Not like they shunt the vacuum line entirely. :b Though the stock BCS is a bleeder valve, it shunts back to the intake.

EBCs are overpriced rice, in the case of an AWD. For FWD they can be useful for launching, but it's better to just get a 2-stage ball/spring MBC with a remote toggle. Much cheaper, and less that can fail, leaving you with a $300+ paperweight strung through your car.

 

[absolute_DSM]

Seen enough full-track cars using MBCs. After all, it's a simple part that isn't going to break and be impossible to fix in the pits without a complete spare (even though it'd be cheap enough to keep a spare in that unlikely event), or needing to flip between two boost settings. Generally they want max power on tap ASAP.
Though, you don't see many full-track race cars using SAFCs either. Most of them are on DSMLink or AEM EMS, so the timing can be altered as well for most gain.

There are bleeder type MBCs, but the vast majority use ball-and-spring units, which only have a bleed fitting to prevent pressurelock from keeping the wastegate open after you've let off. No idea where you got the idea that the 'typical' MBC is a bleeder valve.
Even the bleeder type don't leak like you make them out to... just enough to keep the wastegate shut longer. Not like they shunt the vacuum line entirely. :b Though the stock BCS is a bleeder valve, it shunts back to the intake.

EBCs are overpriced rice, in the case of an AWD. For FWD they can be useful for launching, but it's better to just get a 2-stage ball/spring MBC with a remote toggle. Much cheaper, and less that can fail, leaving you with a $300+ paperweight strung through your car.

2nd everything you just said. You know what youre talking about.