Turbo Install

[Splitpi]

I'm installing my new turbo/IC... and wanted some advise on my steps and to ensure I have everything I will need. Let me know what you all think.

Here's what I am envisioning....
Friday Evening:
1) Drain Coolant
2) Drain Oil
3) Remove Radiator & Fans for extra clearance
4) Remove Heat Shield
5) Remove Front O2 sensor
6) Remove Downpipe
7) Spray PBlaster on turbo bolts and exhaust manifold bolts
8) Remove Front Bumper
9) Spray PBlaster on turbo bolts and exhaust manifold bolts again
10) Remove IC Piping and SMIC
11) Spray PBlaster on turbo bolts and exhaust manifold bolts again
12) Unbolt Oil feed and Return lines
13) Unbolt water feed and return lines
14) Spray PBlaster on turbo bolts and exhaust manifold bolts again
15) Unbolt the turbo from the manifold
16) Unbolt the manifold from the turbo
17) Start porting the exhaust manifold

Saturday morning :
1) Finish exhaust manifold porting
2) Remove old exhaust manifold studs and replace with new SS studs
3) Bend PS cooling loop behind the front strut bar
4) Mount FMIC
5) Put on new Exhaust gasket and bolt the manifold on
6) Bolt the Tubro onto the manifold w/ new bolts
7) Bolt on Oil Feed and Oil Return line (with filing bolt holes to match)
8) Bolt on water lines to turbo
9) Route FMIC pipes
10) Bolt on Downpipe
11) Install Front O2 sensor
12) Install heat shield
13) Reinstall radiator
14) Fill coolant
15) Fill oil
16) Check for boost leak

Sunday:
1) verify all electical conections are attached
2) Cut bumper to fit
3) Install Bumper
4) Fire it up.

Am I missing any big steps?

Parts I have:
Big 16G Turbo
O2 Housing (in process of porting it myself... would like to sand blast and paint it still)
SS Studs for Exhaust Manifold and Downpipe
4 new Exhaust manifold to Turbo bolts
New O2 Housing to Turbo bolts
New Exhaust Manifold to Engine gasket
New Exhaust Manifold to Turbo Gasket
New Turbo to O2 Housing Gasket
New Oil Drain tube to Oil Pan Gasket
SS Oil Feed line (from Oil filter to turbo)
ETS FMIC kit setup for 16G turbo.
Anti-Freeze
Water Wetter
Oil
Oil Filter
Anti-Seize
Copper Gasket Sealant
High Temp RTV

 

[blazebolt]

Looks like a good list. Everything should go well since you are replacing most of the bolts that break. The two nut method works great in removing the delicate manifold bolts.

Have you already ported the turbo?
I would actually remove the heatshields now and start spraying pb blaster on them. I did that everytime I got home for a couple days and the bolts came out with no problem. Even the stud that went into the turbo. On another car we pb blasted it the same day and had difficulty getting it off. Could be just the cars though
Make sure you're using the high temp anti-seize.
Don't forget to prime the turbo with oil before starting up the engine. To do this remove the triangular connector next to the fuel injectors (this removes the spark) and turn the engine over for 10-15 seconds.

 

[diablos991]

Be sure that you use new copper crush washers on the water lines for the turbo. They are not reusable and should be replaced if you have the lines disconnected. I would just replace them while I was there to save possible headache in the future.

Also, after a few days of driving, be sure to re check the torque on the manifold to turbo bolts. It is common to see them start to back out after a few heating and cooling cycles.

 

[Dream On]

I didn't have any problems when I pb blasted the hell out of my stock manifold and turbo. Only 1 stud was broken before I even touched it. Pray you don't have to helicoil.

 

[Strm Trpr]

Make sure you have an assortment of sockets and extensions in varying lengths and a universal swivel socket to be able to reach under the manifold to remove the nuts.
You may need to crack all of the screws and nuts and spray more PB Blaster and let it sit.
You can crack all of the screws loose on the turbo to O2 housing, ex man to turbo, and then ex man to head, and finally lift all 3 out as an assembly.

The dip stick tube may get in the way a tad while cracking the screws loose on the O2 Housing.
There is a 14mm screw holding the dip stick tube to the block, remove it and you'll be able to pull the dip stick tube up a little out of the way, but I did not remove it.

Install in the reverse order.

I would use the double nut method for installing your new SST Ex Man studs.
My buddy bought one of those stud removers/installers, and he ended up coining the studs and making it hard as hell to install the nuts.

Oh, one more thing, I didn't notice 8 shinny new turbo to ex man washers.
Those are just as important as new turbo to manifold screws.
They are beveled, meaning they're dished and allow for the thermal expansion and contraction of the cast iron pieces.

I'd definitely make sure you get a set of 8 new washers before install.

 

[Splitpi]

Oh, one more thing, I didn't notice 8 shinny new turbo to ex man washers.
Those are just as important as new turbo to manifold screws.
They are beveled, meaning they're dished and allow for the thermal expansion and contraction of the cast iron pieces.

I'd definitely make sure you get a set of 8 new washers before install.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[Rippinstock]

Warming Up The Car Also May Help You Loosten The Bolts On The Exhaust. Just Another Idea

 

[Dream On]

If you have a vice, make it easier on yourself and don't try to tackle the o2 housing bolts until you get the thing out as one big piece. Same with the turbo. Then you can make sure you hit both sides of the threads with pb blaster again since you can get the best angle on everything.

 

[Apeximprt2nr]

Sounds like a good list. I would disconnect the oil return adn water lines from the turbo after the turbo is out of the car. You most likely won't be able to while it's in the car. When installing, make sure to use RTV on the return tube to oil pan flange, it will leak like a bi*** if you don't. Check, double, and triple check your oil and water lines after your done installing for leaks.
Also don't forget to put the manifold- turbo gasket on. I installed my turbo and forgot to put it on. DOh! That wasn't fun.
Also before you put water lines on the turbo, don't forget to put both washers on the bolts.

Feel free to PM me about anything. I've installed/ removed a 14b 3 times in a few months and now have it down to about 2-3 hours.

 

[Splitpi]

Well, After about 24 hours of work, I got the turbo and new FMIC installed.

Took about 2 hours to remove the turbo, radiator, Exhaust Manifold, etc...
Took about 3 hours to port the Exhaust Manifold
Took about 3 hours to get the bumper and headlights off
Took about 1 hour to mount the front IC
Took about 7 hours to cut the bumper to fit the new IC (grrr..)
Took about 2 hours to run to the hardware store for a new drill and bits, shop lights and grinding stones (broke a few of the cheap body screws and drilled out)
Took about 3 hours to remove broken body screws that were rusted to the body
Took about 2 hours to plumb the IC
Took about 1 hour to plumb the turbo

Now that I know how to take the bumper off it should go faster, the most time consuming thing was trimming the bumper and trying to not do too much... obviously, I choose a very slow method..

Right now it smokes a little as all the PB blaster and sealants burn off. But I have been checking for oil leaks and don't see any ... so wish me luck!

Also I would like to thank Eric at JNZTuning for ensuring that I got the crush washers and Turbo Bolt washers that Strm_trpr mentioned on time for the weekend..