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20 amp engine fuse keeps blowing

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rkn527

15+ Year Contributor
64
1
May 9, 2004
capitol heights, Maryland
i have a 96 talon and it has mods to long to list right now but i am having an issue that i cant find and it is slowly killing me. the 20 amp engine fuse keeps blowing. i replaced the alt already and it is gettin the correct charge. everytime i try to move the car the fuse blows or the car just shuts off. i have checked the ecu and all wiring and couldnt find anything. could it be the coil pack on it way out cause everytime the car get like a load of power to move the car it dies instantly can someone please help me out or if there is some one in the md area 20743 drop me an email at [email protected] so maybe you can swing by and help me figure this out before i sell this thing i will pay for the help..


thanks in advance
 
you've burned the insultation off one of your wires probably fuel pump that what happen to me I tracked it down and taped it up and later replaced the wire
 
I am having the same problem

I looked at the wiring diagram from the haynes book and it doesn't explain anything in detail. What is in line of the engine fuse (20A)? so that I can check each for shorts and ground issues.

My car will run with a 40A fuse in place but run for about 2 seconds and quit with the same engine fuse blown.

Any ideas, I think first of I will try starting the car with the alternator disconnected to see if its putting too much power out and blowing the fuse.

please help....
 
to add I tested the car with the alternator disconnected and the fuse still blew

I did find a bare wire that seems to have no covering at all, it is loctated in the bundle that connect to the 02 sensor. What is this wire for?

need help the car is stuck at my college campus parking lot.
 
You either have too many loads on that fuse or there is a short on one of it's circuits. That fuse runs most of the engine stuff (including the ECU) through the MFI relay so when it blows your engine will die.
This will help you to find shorts: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1496998#post1496998.

Red: NEVER replace a fuse with a bigger one. If the normal fuse blows you can believe there is something wrong. A larger fuse wll just burn up your wiring as it is only rated for the correct fuse.
 
I was working on a customers car that was doing the exact same thing. I found that the battery tray was rubbing on the engine harness coming from the fuse box, and was grounding out some wires. It ended up being 9 wires total, and I had to repair all of them.
 
You either have too many loads on that fuse or there is a short on one of it's circuits. That fuse runs most of the engine stuff (including the ECU) through the MFI relay so when it blows your engine will die.
This will help you to find shorts: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1496998#post1496998.

Red: NEVER replace a fuse with a bigger one. If the normal fuse blows you can believe there is something wrong. A larger fuse wll just burn up your wiring as it is only rated for the correct fuse.

I know I shouldnt of used the 40A fuse but I thought I may of found the problem and needed to test and the local advanced auto was out of stock of the 20As (because of me).

All o2 sensor wiring is part of the engine fuse right?
 
What "Engine" fuse and MFI relay provide power to on a 2g turbo:

Here is the complete list of what the 20 amp "Engine" fuse (in the engine compartment) powers on a 2g turbo:

Battery positive goes to this "Engine" fuse which then goes via a red/black (red with black stripe) wire exclusively to the MFI relay (which is controlled by ECU). From the MFI relay it goes via a red wire to the following (not in this order):

ECU (pins 12 & 25), injector resistors (and from these to injectors), front O2, rear O2, CPS (crankshaft position sensor), CAS (camshaft angle sensor), volume air flow sensor (aka MAF), idle air control motor (aka IAC), turbo waste gate solenoid valve, fuel pressure solenoid valve (this is not the FPR), evap emission purge solenoid valve, egr solenoid valve, and on the 98 & 99: evap emission vent solenoid.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
What "Engine" fuse and MFI relay provide power to on a 2g turbo:

Here is the complete list of what the 20 amp “Engine” fuse (in the engine compartment) powers on a 2g turbo:

Battery positive goes to this “Engine” fuse which then goes via a red/black (red with black stripe) wire exclusively to the MFI relay (which is controlled by ECU). From the MFI relay it goes via a red wire to the following (not in this order):

ECU, injector resistors (and then injectors after these), front O2, rear O2, CPS (crankshaft position sensor), CAS (camshaft angle sensor), volume air flow sensor, idle air control motor, evap emission vent solenoid, turbo waste gate solenoid valve, fuel pressure solenoid valve, evap emission purge solenoid valve, egr solenoid valve.


Well it ended up being the rear 02 sensor that was touching the body and shorting out, and of course it was the last thing I checked after going through the entire list.

Thanks for your help:thumb:
 
I know this is a very old forum, but I am having the same issue as above.

I just replaced a bad battery that had leaked a bunch of acid on to the tray. I suspect that the acid may have leaked down to the wiring below and may have corroded it. My engine fuse keeps blowing...it's 1:00 in the morning and I just towed the car home. going to look into the issue in the morning. If anyone has any wire diagrams I could use them!!
 
I know this is an old thread but Im having this issue now. My car has been sitting over my parent's house for about 3 months and when I came home I did a boost leak test and found a leak by the throttle body so I replaced the throttle body gaskets and my tps was bad so I replaced that as well. I went to start the car and it started for about 2 seconds and then died. I noticed the engine fuse was blown so I replaced it and tried it again just hoping it was something random and wouldnt happen again, well I was wrong of course. I retraced all my wires and everything looks fine but I did notice mouse/rat sitting in my valve cover around the spark plugs so Im thinking that little bastard may be the culprit. Any leads where I should specifically look to solve this?
 
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