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When does the oil pump need to be replaced?

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PieEyedPiper

DSM Wiseman
5,580
65
Nov 13, 2004
North Bay Area, California
I searched and did not come across the information in any threads or the tech article for Maintenance Schedule.

Anyone have the info or a thread link?
I'm saving up for a timing belt job for my car. It has 101,000 miles on it now so it will be my next big "repair". I just want to make sure I'm doing everything I should be doing when I'm in there.

-timing belt
-tensioner
-idler pulley
-water pump
-cam seals
-crank seal
-harmonic balancer/crank pulley
-balance shaft elimination
-oil pump and I guess this includes the front case?
 
I'm also due for a timing belt. I know that my engine mount by the timing belt is worn, so I plan to buy the solid mount insert to fix it. You may want to add this mount to your list of things to check.
 
I would change the oil pump also since you have to remove it to remove the balance shafts and also would install new piston rings since your already in there.
My oil pump went out at 87k miles and eneded up spinning a rod bearing so I eneded up just rebuilding the whole motor.
 
I searched and did not come across the information in any threads or the tech article for Maintenance Schedule.

Anyone have the info or a thread link?
I'm saving up for a timing belt job for my car. It has 101,000 miles on it now so it will be my next big "repair". I just want to make sure I'm doing everything I should be doing when I'm in there.

-timing belt
-tensioner
-idler pulley
-water pump
-cam seals
-crank seal
-harmonic balancer/crank pulley
-balance shaft elimination
-oil pump and I guess this includes the front case?

For $100 oil pump replacement will save you a $2500 rebuild. Definetly replace it. My opinoin is to get OEM oil pump. Good Luck!
 
For $100 oil pump replacement will save you a $2500 rebuild. Definetly replace it. My opinoin is to get OEM oil pump. Good Luck!

I agree but its more like 250 to replace one....or at least I thought so. I've heard you can replace the gears but its a whole lot better to replace the whole thing which if i'm not retarded, is incorporated into a whole front case.
 
Yeah its about $250 to replace it. Hence why I asked :sneaky:

This is getting crazy though.
~$250 for timing parts
~$40 for balance shaft removal parts (I dont want to do the free mod)
~??$$$ re-ring the motor??$$$
~$250 for oil pump and front case
~$50 for random gaskets and hardware
~$100 for harmonic balancer
~$$?? who knows how much for crank and cam seals

AND labor to have the engine pulled..and since someone is going to have to pull it I might as well have them do the labor on the parts before they put it back in. I don't think its reasonable to drive the car to the shop, have the engine pulled, throw it in the back of the truck, call a flatbed to take the car home, somehow work on the engine and have the flatbed bring the car back, get the engine back on the truck drive it to the shop and have them put it back toegther..haha sounds pretty wild!

And before anyone says it, it IS out of my league to pull the engine and re-ring it. I just completed a suspension job and was getting ready to tackle/learn myself a timing job. I'd imagine engine removal and partial rebuilding is a few step away from a simple timing belt replacement.

This could be well over $1500 possibley more like $2000+

I mean with 101k why don't I just buy a whole new engine or have a complete rebuild done?
EDIT: More information on the condition of said engine.
Compression reads: 185psi, 184psi, 186psi, 173psi and yes thats after a good seafoaming.. no clue why the compression is a tad high, but otherwise looks like everything is fine right? Apart from cylinder 4, but thats hardly bad.


So what does everyone else do at this stage of their car's life?
 
If your original concern was the oil pump then replace the oil pump and call it good. Dont let people second guess you on what you want to do to your car with "you might as wells" based on those you might as well get a new engine, LOL. Granted there are a few of them that make sense to do the first time. That way you dont pay for labor again for doing pretty much the same thing. But if you wanted to go the less expensive short run way you could just get the oil pump and call it good, even though in the future you might want to replace other stuff.
 
Just leave the balance shafts in and do the timing job and oil pump yourself. It would save you alot of money.
 
snox has the right idea here.. I wouldn't get too carried away, rebuild it later when it needs it... and do the shafts then.. get some more experience with the t-belt and oil pump job before you tackle everything all at once.

get the felpro crankshaft front end gasket kit that SBR lists on their site.. just give the part number to your local parts place and they can get it likely cheaper.. it contains everything but the camshaft seals, which were $11CAD each for me (OEM) probably ~$8 for you.


Front Cover (oil pump case) Gasket

Balance Shaft Seal

Oil Pump Seal

Timing Cover Seal

Oil Filter Bracket Gasket

Front Case "O" Ring
 
Thanks for further input you guys.

To answer some of the questions:
My oil pressure is fine, was just wondering if it was time to replace it. When is it supposed to be replaced?
Nothing leaks, not a drop! Not even my VC gasket!
Engine health is great.

VanIsleDSM, thanks for the gasket info.

I'm thinking I'll just do the timing job, skip the balance shaft removal stuff unless you guys think its reasonable to do with the timing job. And depending on WHEN the oil pump is supposed to be replaced I either will or won't change that too.
Does the engine need to come out to replace the oil pump/front case?
 
Look, timing belt is 179 at Finaldriveperformance.com
Take the extra time to figure out how to do the free balance shaft mod and then goto advanceautoparts.com and get a 4g63 gasket kit for 123.
Then fork up the extra 250 for the oil pump.
Then call me in the end and tell me how much money I just saved you.
I'm at 2000 right now on an engine rebuild but i have an upgraded clutch n flywheel, E316g turbo, Eagle rods on JE pistons and a 4 bolt rear end goin in. Arp all around, poly motor mounts and i think i'll peak at around 2500 with a brand new motor with upgraded internals. I've been researching prices forever though. So....
Take the time to look for deals and you'll be rewarded with saving money.
 
Thanks for further input you guys.

To answer some of the questions:
My oil pressure is fine, was just wondering if it was time to replace it. When is it supposed to be replaced?
Nothing leaks, not a drop! Not even my VC gasket!
Engine health is great.

VanIsleDSM, thanks for the gasket info.

I'm thinking I'll just do the timing job, skip the balance shaft removal stuff unless you guys think its reasonable to do with the timing job. And depending on WHEN the oil pump is supposed to be replaced I either will or won't change that too.
Does the engine need to come out to replace the oil pump/front case?

It would be alot easier to replace the oil pump with the motor out. IF you go that way remove the B/S. If it were me I would just do the scheduled maint. Timing belt and bs belt. I would not change a seal that wasnt leaking. your motor seems in pretty good health. Just my .01
 
On a 1g it's possible to remove the rear balance shaft with the engine in the car. It should be on a 2g too. Just undo all the mounts except the passenger tranny mount, and tilt the engine down. Then you have room to slide the bshaft out under the frame. You can leave the front shaft in, it's just dead weight without the belt, it's not hurting anything. The only reason I would eliminate the balance shafts is that they like to seize (bad bearing design) and take out the t-belt. But it's not mandatory. I mean it ran fine for 100k...

I think I would leave the oil pump alone too. You'll probably notice issues with it (noise, leaking, low oil pressure) before catastrophic failure. But oil pumps generally should last past 100k.

Do NOT think about rings. They're just fine according to your comp numbers, plus if you rering without honing, the rings might never break in and you'll have much worse compression.

If I was gonna do the whole deal you're talking about with engine removal and such, I'd rather just get a cheap block, get all the machine work done, and build a stroker on a stand. Just drop it in when it's ready. Budget a few months and 3 grand.

My new philosophy is if it ain't broke don't fix it :) The less shit you touch and the more you leave in its factory state the better off you'll be in the long run. If you want a race engine much over 400whp that's all out the window. Then do everything and do it right.
 
if you dont have a 6bolt, you mgiht as well consider putting one in !!! i now thats a big step but if u have some plans for power, the extra bucks are worth it!
 
If you're going to put in a 6 bolt, might as well get a stroker! Man, this is getting ridiculous........just do the basic maintenance now, learn a thing or two, and if something breaks later on worry about it then. It sounds like you take care of your car and your engine is in pretty good shape for how many miles you have on it.
 
If it doesn't burn a whole lot of oil; just do the friggin timing belt and maybe the BS Removal.

Otherwise wait till the next 60K and do a 6 bolt or just get a different car at that time.

Otherwise if you were gonna go all out it would be 6 bolt time.
 
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